If I reselect park or hold in place I can start the car , so Can someone explain how I can adjust the cable so that Park is selected in the proper position. It just seems that the lever is slightly out of sync.
Meant to say L322 3.0 L

It sounds like the inhibitor switch in the gearbox needs adjusted at the cable.

There's a cable adjuster nut on the side of the gearbox underneath the car.

The WM will explain the adjustment

Mike

Thanks . .. WM ?
Is the starter / ign meant to operate in neutral as well.
I was only swapping a battery , when I thought I would maintain the memory on the clock etc, so I plugged 12v into the cigar lighter, ha thought better of it and accidentally shorted out the positive battery lead , only slightly ! I may have blown a fuse somewhere , that’s why I asked about neutral starting , as it’s not working .
Any clues please ?

Might just be the drive selector cable needs lubricated, common problem.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post87201.html#87201

Sorry, WM = workshop manual.

If the cable needs adjusting, then the inhibitor switch may be stopping the engine starting in either park or neutral.

Sometimes wiggling the gear selector can move the cable enough to allow the car to start.

Mike

Thank you , one of my starting problems have been resolved when I thought I was changing to a better battery , but not so , it was down in power but not in volts so was a no go' er.

Yes , I have been able to manipulate the lever in order to start it , but has got worse , so now that I can start it once again , I will raise the the suspension and get under the car now . Will post results.

Preaching to the converted I know, but for god''s sake, be careful while under the car.

To reach the selector cable, you'll be well under the car.

Ideally, get it up on wheel ramps or 2/4 poster jacks. Don't rely on the air suspension alone when you're under the car.

Mike

Thanks , yeah was a bit wary , I had it on ramps without engine on of course , the cable has improved vastly. Unfortunately the changing of the battery has upset the suspension, and it has dropped at the front and does rise , but falls again , have spent time with it but it must be needing a reset or something.

No further forward , Rr on its knees now and will not get up . Back to battery I reckon first .?

I just spent two hours with the suspension set ups on Gap and really no further forward. I ended up with all four levels on the bottom and wouldn’t raise , one side , the left side had been an inch lower . That maybe insignificant so took the car out ,( it does say no faults at the moment ) and when I got back the rear is up but not the front , got out shut the door and the rear went up another half inch .
Is there something I’m missing , ha just my head ! !!

Can anyone give me any clues , this all happened when I changed batteries, I am now on a pretty good one at the moment.

I moved my new. Problem to Technical forum

Park problem back again !
Although I never adjusted anything but oiled the cable , things looked fine and a lot more free, now it wont slot P so I guess the lever needs adjusting ?
Anyone got some ideas.

Take it to Mikey at MMP in Dundee  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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I would try copiously oiling the cable again and the various pivots on the actuator arm and work the drive selector backwards and forwards a lot and see what happens.

Thanks , I think after the previous owner , almost 3 yrs ago this sticky cable feature may have started then, I will investigate the travel of the actuator , without the engine running !