Gentlemen,
Next week I'll be replacing my ZF6 with a remanufactured one.
I'm armed with 12 lts LifeGuard 6, two o-rings for the oil cooler connector, bolts for the converter flex-plate, and a transmission cooler cleaning spray (Came with the transmission from Sussex).

I do not have oil for the transfer box, simply because I forgot. Will the oil drain when it's pulled off the gearbox? Figured I'd remove the transfer box first, and then the transmission.

Have I overlooked something important? Any hints that might ease the process? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

Yes, you will / should drain/exchange the trnasfer box fluid

Do you have a new mechatronic sealing sleeve to go in as well? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

The transmission and the transfer box are entirely separate sealed units, each with their own fluid, oil pump, etc. Neither the transmission nor the transfer box fluids should leak out when they’re separated.



The ‘official’ method is to remove the transmission and transfer box as an assembly from the vehicle and then split them once they’re on the bench/floor, though I can appreciate why you might want to do the transfer box separately, just to reduce the shear bulk/weight of the thing.



Phil

Very interested in this thread as I am expecting to need to do the same in the next little while.
SFH please can you pm me where you obtained your remanufactured transmission and the cost. I assume it would be an exchange unit?
I believe there may also be a special grease for the splines linking the two boxes?
Thanks Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

Very interested in this thread as I am expecting to need to do the same in the next little while.
SFH please can you pm me where you obtained your remanufactured transmission and the cost. I assume it would be an exchange unit?
I believe there may also be a special grease for the splines linking the two boxes?
There is a thread on here about removing the transfer box separately.
Thanks, Nick Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

Joe90,
I'm aware that I should, but at this time I cannot. LR does ofcourse demand special fluids in all ends, and I can't get 1.5l of IYK500010 on such short notice. If the fluid will not drain when the units are separated, I can proceed with the transmission replacement. The sealing sleeve is brand new, so I'm hoping to re-use it.

RRPhil,
Appreciate your input. I see the manual dictates them to be removed together. Is this the preferred route? I'll be using a two post lift and transmission jack.
How far can the engine/transmission be tilted back before bad things start to happen in the engine bay?

Nick591,
I used Auto Gearbox Specialists in Sussex. Remanufacture came in at £1320 EX VAT / Shipping. This includes a remanufactured torque converter. I bought a used transmission of ebay (user KLM3232) for £550 and had this unit shipped to Sussex. As I live in Norway it would not be cost/time effective to ship my own unit for reconditioning.
I've seen a thread somewhere that recommended removing the transfer box separately, yes. That's why I wanted to do it the same way. I can't however why separate removal was recommended.
With regards to the grease "Weicon anti-seize montagepaste grau TL 7391", it's so special that I can't find any info confirming it ever existed. I think I'll just use a dab of the grease used for the splines on an outboard propeller. 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

The special anti-seize grease is available in a syringe from Land Rover as part of the input shaft O-ring kit (part number IYX 5000050).



As many owners have found to their cost, it’s vital to grease the transmission output shaft spline before assembly to the transfer box otherwise the spline may wear away through fretting corrosion.





Phil

Thanks, Phil.
The syringe looks like Weicon 26000001. Seems to be regular aluminium based anti-seize?

Click image to enlarge

The manual says the starter motor must be removed before removing the transmission. Is this correct? will it otherwise get squeezed? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

Fretting wear is what took out my first trans and transfer case. I bought a low km used combo but had the mechanic split them and re-grease to be sure before refitting.

All was sweet with new trans until I recently lost all trans fluid when aircon clutch plate rivets let go and sliced through the trans cooler line.

So I could be doing a trans removal and refit too. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

Replaced the transmission last week, and it seems all went well. At least I haven't had any issues yet.
Takes a while for the new transmission to "settle in", but it's getting smoother by the day. The lockup is now crisp and the TDV8 can pull hard without it slipping.

Took down the whole unit with transfer case attached. No problem at all when you've got an extra set of hands and transmission jack. Found some fretting/dust between gearbox and transfer case, but it didn't seem to have any play. Cleaned it all up and lubricated with aluminium based assembly paste before installing TC on the new gearbox.

And to answer my own slightly ignorant question, the starter motor must be removed to access the bolts securing the torque converter to the flexplate/flywheel.
I also removed the cover over the fan, but I'm not sure if this is necessary.
Removed the front axle, but left the rear axle hanging (secured, not by the u-joint).

I think we used 15-16 in-garage hours. Not vastly effective hours, mind you. 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

Nice work, well done. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow