My 57 plate has this rust and I would value people's input on what to do about it. I have seen various posts about the problem in the past.




How bad is this in relative terms?
Should I try to fix it myself or am I better off leaving it to a body shop?
I'm reasonably capable around cars but bodywork is not my forte.
What might if cost if the latter?
Any bodyshop recommendations in south bucks?
I presume to properly inspect and fix I would need to take out the wheel arch liners and possibly the plastic sill trims?
Is a 'big job'?

Thanks, Nick Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

Hi, I have a 52 plate with tinworm in the same place but I think yours is a less advanced state than mine.
I need to pop out he arch liners and plastic sills as you say. You might get away with rubbing down cleaning up treating and painting.

In my case I think I'll be cutting out and welding fresh material in!

My 2006 looked exactly like that. You need to remove the plastc sill cover, more is waiting for you there. I used a mini sandblaster and had to weld some patches. I used 2-pack epoxy primer and polyurethane Topcoat. This is not readily available in Norway as a car product, but if you go to a boat shop you can buy it off the shelf. In one place I did not get it good enough and it has reappeared. I also had the inside of these areas treated. It is 13 years late, but better than doing nothing. To gain access for anti-corrosion treatment there are rubber plugs inside the wheel well.

The real solution is to weld in replacement steel, but i have found no repair panels. Maybe a idea for California breakere with L322s that have front damage etc to cut out the Arches and sell on Ebay. I would have bought a pair!

It is sad to see these nice Range Rovers rusting like this, my 1956 Land Rover is in better condition! If only the dealer had done a anti-corrosion treatment when it was new.

It ridiculous how they rust like that. Mine was the same. I can't remember the last car I owned that had rust!

I'm pretty sure that if I stand close enough I can here the corrosion fizzing away on mine!

Thanks Ian and others.
I have a compressor and grit/bead blasting kit so that may help.
I have seen others talk about anti rust treatments that chemically neutralise any left lurking. Any brand recommendations?
I agree it is pitiful design. The ludicrous rubber seals on the rear door edges just trap moisture next to the paint and the wheel arch liners dont prevent mud accumulating behind the panel! Previously a 2008MY Tonga Green Vogue SE 3.6 TDV8

The end of the sill under the plastic sill trim cover, is likely to have rotted far worse than the bit you can see. By this I mean you'll have an area which will either be holed or will crumble the second you touch it.
The sill trim is easy to remove ( get yourself a bunch of replacement trim clips ) and have a look..... if you want to see bad news.

mine had corroded under the cover and side skirt,all was cut out and replaced including the arch,don't cut corners or paint over it it wont last .



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Zambezi silver Vogue Se unique

Paul thornton wrote:

It ridiculous how they rust like that. Mine was the same. I can't remember the last car I owned that had rust!

 David

Please let me know if my comments upset you, I may wish to upset you again.

Nick591 wrote:

I have seen others talk about anti rust treatments that chemically neutralise any left lurking. Any brand recommendations?

I'm doing mine at the moment. Using a grinder with a polycarbide disc to clean the rust up and then will be using some vactan rust converter to stabalise the metal. Then some zinc 182 primer and for the non visible areas and behind the covers some stone chip paint and finally top coat and clear coat.

Cutting it out is the best thing but I don't have any welding or metal fabricating skills so relying on the vactan to stabalise the cleaned up metal and the zinc primer to keep future outbreaks at bay. Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

I had same issue looked everywhere for some repair panels nobody does them so we sanded back to bare metal treated it and sprayed it all with the correct materials it didn’t last a month before bubbles appeared again as rust penetrates from inside to outer skin. We did this three times using different rust treatments in the end we had the effected areas cut out and done properly it’s the only way to do it properly as my passenger side wheel arch lip had actually started to break away these cars rear arches are a crap design end of. I have had no problems with Range Rover sport rear arches just the L322🙈 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 SVO Stying Pack
Audi A4 2.7 TDI S Line Black Edition phantomn black
Previous Cars
Range Rover Vogue SE Overfinch Styling 22" Elara's full black stealth colour coded
Java black Range Rover sport 2.7 TDV6
Alaska white Range Rover sport overfinch 3.6 TDV8
BMW M3 Carbon Black

Those of you who have cut out and welded material in, what thickness of material did you use?
I haven't cut anything out yet and woulke to get hold of materials before doing anything. The material feels quite substantial so was thinking of using 1.5mm.

Following this as mine are in a similar, if not worse state.

Actually flagged in the last MOT as an advisory due to the rust being within 30cm of a suspension mounting.

I suspect if i remove the plastic cover it will be a holy mess. I have a mig welder, compressor etc so may have to bite the bullet this summer. Think the last time I used my Mig was in 2002 welding up a rusty Ford Capri... 2004 Vogue TD6 - Remapped
2008 Porsche Cayenne S
1998 Lotus Elise