| 2003 L322 TD6 Power Loss; EGR Cooler Removal | |
Hi there,
Just wanted to share my events of this past weekend. My TD6 felt like it was missing about 100 horsepower, but everything else was working well. Idling fine, shifting well, no check engine lights, fuel pressure was good, no hidden error codes (other than EGR, which was blocked off... or so I thought)
When I looked into the engine bay, I noticed a lot of black soot around the front of the engine.
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Turns out, the piping between the EGR cooler and the EGR block off had snapped. What seems ot have happened is the screws that hold the EGR cooler in place, had become loose and the vibrations must have, over time, fracture the metal pipe. Might be a good idea to check your EGR cooler mounting screws to make sure they`re tight!
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To make matters worse, the coolant supply line had fracture at it`s plastic connection.
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EGR Cooler removed
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I fit a half inch tube cap from my local hardware store to the coolant return line from the bottom of the EGR Cooler.
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Used this thin BMW 32 MM wrench along with a normal 32 MM wrench to remove the Viscous Fan, left hand thread. Fan comes out before the Shroud does.
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I filed down the starting connection of the Coolant supply line, threaded in a large bolt with an o-ring, filled the threads with JB Weld. It created a nice seal and hasn't leaked at all.
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Full EGR cooler block off kit
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/LAND-RANGE-ROVER-T...1ec37beed1
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Another picture of the fracture EGR block off tube
All seemed good for a day, but then the power loss came back. In hindsight I should have used the block off ktid to block off right at the exhaust, but I got lazy and blocked it off and the end of the exhaust supply pipe. Bad idea, it fractured after a few hours of driving and melted my air line to the turbo. I fit a piece of plastic I had lying around to the hole, with much more JB weld and wrapped it with a bunch of tape. It seems really well sealed, all things considered.
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To get the exhaust blank in place, I had to remove that big air hose, it slides out of the turbo at the bottom, there's another hose that slides off as well, and 2 5 MM allan keys up top and that whole thing comes out. Much easier to do with the Viscous Fan removed too.
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She's running perfectly now, back up to full power! Also heats up significantly quicker now that the EGR Cooler is removed, I suspect it was the cause of my under-heating issues as well. Nice to have that whole EGR system out of there, clears up a lot of space to get to the Viscous fan for future repairs as well.
Hope this helps if anybody encounters a similar problem, and maybe a good idea to check those EGR Cooler mounting bolts because this was quite a pain in the ass!
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23rd Apr 2019 1:13pm
