As above, just parked up in hospital car park (appointment for the old man) about 15 miles from home and ‘brake fluid level low’ Bongs up on the dash. Never had it before in 9 years of ownership. Had new discs and pads fitted all round about 200 miles ago.

Aside from physically checking the level under the bonnet, what else can I check before I attempt to get her home?

Not a fan of £6 for 2 or 3 hours parking when I am!

Cheers guys

Be very wary! Could be corroded brake pipe(s). Mine went (fore to aft) under the passenger side. There are plenty of write-ups about this problem if you do a search. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

I wouldn't drive it in that condition. it's just not worth the risk. First place to look for a leak is from the flexible hoses to the calipers where the brake work was done. Even if you "topped up" the brake fluid reservoir, the leak may suddenly get a lot worse!

+1 for brake lines 2015 4.4 AB
GSXR 1000 K5
R1 1998

Try applying the footbrake hard & holding the effort for a minute.
If the pedal is low or sinks significantly you could have a significant leak /hose or pipe failure.
If it holds at the normal height I'd drive it & see how it stops & if Ok, take it home & investigate at your leisure. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Be aware if yours is diesel doing the foot brake check with a running engine will give you diesel creep
Happened to mine last year
It was front to rear pipes also changed rear flexi hoses
If you can get under the rear wheel passenger side just in front of the axle you may be able to see wet brake pipes as they emerge from a black plastic cover good starting point

Cheers guys

Henda, interesting point. On idle the pedal is soft and eventually lowers on the way to the carpet. With the engine off however, the pedal is solid in the normal top position?

Pawl wrote:

Try applying the footbrake hard & holding the effort for a minute.
If the pedal is low or sinks significantly you could have a significant leak /hose or pipe failure.
If it holds at the normal height I'd drive it & see how it stops & if Ok, take it home & investigate at your leisure.

AA been out, corroded pipes that run length of the car under the passenger side ☹️

Waiting for recovery truck to save me...

Corroded pipes are only a significant issue if they're leaking - although they may fail in the future & corrosion can be an MOT failure if they believe they're reduced in thickness by >25%.
Are they saying they are leaking ?

With the engine on, you can generate much more pressure in the mastercylinder / system than engine off - so it's possible that it leaks noticeably engine on, almost negligible engine off
Henda mentions "diesel creep". That should only be noticeable if you hold your foot on the brake while you start the engine.
The pedal will then creep down as the vacuum builds up & "adds" assistance to the effort you've applied with your foot. Once idling for a few minutes, it should not creep down further as the vacuum level should be stable and you get no more assistance. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 145,000 miles & climbing
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

Cheers again guys, a nasty bout of man flu has immobilised me so soon as I’m back up on 2 feet, I’ll lay under the b&st@rd thing

Incidentally, should the AA winch a RR up onto the flatbed now? In neutral and pull her on?

You'll still have brakes that work leaking rears mean reduced rear braking fronts are fine that's why they run on different circuits to get you home
You get diesel creep on brakes whenever you sit on tickover and keep pressure on the pedal something to do with the servo and Diesel engine vacuum pressure all quite normal

Cheers Henda, spoke to a local garage who said run it up to them to prove up the work but I decided against it because didn’t want total failure of them on my way there, so guess it could limp the 3 miles to the workshop to get it looked at after all?

And is it worth replacing all the pipes at the same time? The corroded ones that are fitted to the underside and also the flexipipes on each corner as well?

For peace of mind I would get the lot replaced. If there are corroded pipes it can only be a matter of time before they go too. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

When I did mine I had the flexi pipes replaced as they were starting to corrode
Local garage charged me £250 for all the pipes replaced inc lr flexi pipes