Hi, I’ve been a member for a while but this is my first post. This forum has been a godsend when working on my previous TD6 so thanks to everyone who has contributed to all the useful information I have found here.

I recently (2 weeks ago) bought a 2012 TDV8 Autobiography. On the test drive and 2 hour journey back from dealership 5 days later, the car was fine, no issues or noise, all fine etc. The next day after showing her off to the wife and kids we went for a short drive, but when I started the car the alternator belt was squealing. My ever observant wife pointed this out and being the stubborn arse that I am, I brushed it off, not wanting to admit to her that it was a problem. I had already read up on here about the tensioner failing so I was pretty confident this was the likely cause.

So I checked dealers warranty, not covered, plus at a four hour round trip, it wouldn’t be worth my time or fuel. I checked the belt, visually all looked good, no obvious signs of damage or wear, but it was riding off the tensioner pulley by about 5mm. Tensioner ordered from LR yesterday. I’m off work at the mo so decided I would make a start preparing engine, and good job too as I found the plastic tube on the radiator hose has been broken in the past and badly repaired with what looks like a hard straw-I didn’t notice this on test drive/inspection but there was signs of water dripping from the hose and the plastic connector just pulled free from the hose with very little effort. So back on to LR to add this to my order.

I collected both this morning and set about replacing them. My initial plan was to remove the plastic manifold piece from the radiator hose and just replace that (including the problematic tube to what I assume is a temp sensor) but thought best to just replace the complete assembly. There was no coolant in the hose where the break was, so I removed the hose from the engine block. As expected, some coolant leaked out all over front of engine, including belt.

What I should have done at this point with the radiator hose removed was to make a start on the tensioner. I didn’t, and firmly fitted the new hose in place. It would have been much easier to remove the tensioner and refit the belt with the hose removed, so lesson learned. Following the excellent wiki guide I managed to remove and replace the tensioner. The old tensioner had some very minor play in the pulley.

All hoses refitted and engine started. Should point out that the coolant level in header was above the fill line so I suspect this has been over filled to compensate for the leaking hose.

The engine was whisper quiet (we’ll, as quiet as can be expected) for about 10 seconds, but then started squealing again, but louder. The belt is now running smoothly and centrally over the tensioner pulley, and as I said, LOOKED to be in good condition.

So, my learned friends, would one expect the coolant that I carelessly spilled out all over the front of the engine to cause the belt to squeal/slip or could there be anything else that may explain the noise? If it is just the coolant, will it dry out and sort itself out? Should I have changed the belt when doing the tensioner even though it’s meant to last for life?
I’ve read about the alternator sometimes making a noise, I don’t know if there would be a measurable decrease in output if this was the case but I’m getting 14.8v at the battery so electrically it seems to be functioning ok.

Any advice/comments will be greatly received.

Chris 2012 4.4TDV8 AB
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2016 Mercedes C350e
2003 TD6 Vogue
2010 Alpina D3 BT
2005 Audi A4 2.0TDi SLine
1973 Series IIa
2001 BMW 320
1996 Audi A4 1.6

The 4.4 belts do like to squeal when the cars have sat around for some time (like in your case when car is for sale and unused for some time!)

The battery takes quite a while to recover from starting so, if it were me i would go and use the car a while and see if it improves (they normally do)

I had a similar situation on my Touareg and in desperation is applied a tiny (and I mean tiny) amount of graphite powder (it used as a dry lubricant for locks) to the belt on both sides the result was instant and last silence. I repeated the treatment after about 20,000 miles to restore silence again, worked for me. BMW i3 Electric Car
2012 Full Fat RR 4.4 TDV8 (now gone)
2006 VW Touareg 3.0 TDi V6

I had a similar issue on my td6.

It turns out that the aircon compressor has a separate belt / tensioner and it was the tensioner pulley bearing which had gone dry.

I took the tensioner off but couldn't get another locally so ended up re-greasing the original bearing as a temporary measure.

It actually worked so well that I just left it and it was still silent 18 months later.

Update:
Started the car this afternoon, engine was quiet initially but it then started the squealing again after about 10 seconds. I went for a 45 minute drive through the village and on the dual carriageway so a nice mix of speeds and loads to see if the residue from the spilled coolant might dry up. With the windows up, radio and climate off, the squeal is barely noticeable, but with the window down it can be heard at all speeds except on the dual carriageway, probably because of the wind noise.

When I got home and parked up the squeal was gone at idle but it would return when revving. I had a good look under the bonnet with the engine running and belt looks good, nice and central on all pulleys. I need to borrow someone to rev the engine while I look so I can see if the belt moves around at all.

In the mean time I have ordered some graphite dust so I will try this. If this stops the noise I’ll be happy, as long as the belt stays in good condition. If not then I guess I’ll have to get back on to the dealer and see what they have to say.

On the plus side I no longer have a leaking radiator hose so that’s one thing.

Thanks for the replies! 2012 4.4TDV8 AB
———————————
2016 Mercedes C350e
2003 TD6 Vogue
2010 Alpina D3 BT
2005 Audi A4 2.0TDi SLine
1973 Series IIa
2001 BMW 320
1996 Audi A4 1.6

Could it be that one or more idlers might also need doing and / or the belt. Mine squeaks from cold. My mechanic mate says change the lot in one go instead of chasing it but that's a much bigger job than just the tensioner Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Hi Rob, I did wonder this but most of what I have read here seems to pinpoint only the tensioner. If the graphite lubricant I’ve ordered doesn’t shut it up then I’ll be getting back on to the dealer, as like you said, the work to rectify is going to start escalating.

I’m sort of hoping that what I’m hearing now is down to my own carelessness - ie spilling coolant all over the belt - and will sort itself out. Not likely I know, but fingers crossed. 2012 4.4TDV8 AB
———————————
2016 Mercedes C350e
2003 TD6 Vogue
2010 Alpina D3 BT
2005 Audi A4 2.0TDi SLine
1973 Series IIa
2001 BMW 320
1996 Audi A4 1.6

What you should have done was wash of the spilt coolant with clean water, and allow to dry, before starting the engine again

I know!

Probably wouldn’t hurt to do that anyway before trying anything else. 2012 4.4TDV8 AB
———————————
2016 Mercedes C350e
2003 TD6 Vogue
2010 Alpina D3 BT
2005 Audi A4 2.0TDi SLine
1973 Series IIa
2001 BMW 320
1996 Audi A4 1.6

Replace belt .If belt has been running out of line it will be out of shape and will squeal until it breaks not worth the risk .If you want to test belt a little talc powder will shut it up instantly good luck

rik has a point about the risk of belt breakage after its been running out of line.

But the $64,000 question is how long has it been running out of line and how much effect has the offset stress had on the belt. Generally those things are pretty tough so if its just a bit of uneven wear or mis-shaping of the ribs its self correcting and will go away of its own accord given time. Different matter if the bonding of the tension cord members has been damaged which will make early failure almost certain. But at that level of damage I'd expect serious howling of "can be heard a couple or three streets away level" not a common squeal.

Try the talc / graphite powder tricks followed by a bit of watchful waiting methinks.

Time to get serious is if the problem is still there after a thousand miles or so or if it starts getting seriously louder.

My personal inclination with this sort of thing is to try a couple of fixes and if no joy go nuclear and change "everything" in one hit. Investing some of the money saved by DIY over dealer or indie workshop prices in making sure I don't have to deal with an issue again has always seemed right to me.

Clive

The belt running out of alignment is nothing to do with the belt, its the tensioner that moves out of alignment when the internal spring fails due to age/wear and then the belt has less and less contact with the tensioner until finally it falls off the side...

This wouldn't effect the belt strength/cords etc etc...

May i make a further suggestion, you said you drove the car and it went quieter after a drive... This would signify the battery has been charged and is no longer dragging a heap of charge out of the alternator... Try then pulling a lot of current by turning on everything electrical and see if it then gets louder again? Maybe check using diagnostics as to what current is being pulled too?

So the graphite lubricant seems to have stopped the squealing for now, I’ll monitor over the coming weeks.

Re the alternator, I had all seats heating on max, climate on, lights on, heated steering wheel on and was getting 14.8v at the battery, so it looks like the alternator is charging ok. There is a very faint pulsing sound coming from the lower left front of the engine (as you look at it) so it may be that the alternator bearings are on the way out. I can’t see anything else obvious in this location but I’m no expert so if anybody has any other ideas as to what could make a noise in that location your advice would be appreciated.

I’ve noticed I’ve got what I think are the old style hoses on the air intake manifold-the ones I’ve got have the nipples poking up through the jubilee clips. If so, replacing those will be one of my next tasks before they split. Can anybody tell me the part number of the hoses please? I’m sure I read it on here somewhere but I can’t seem to find it again!

Thanks in advance.

Chris 2012 4.4TDV8 AB
———————————
2016 Mercedes C350e
2003 TD6 Vogue
2010 Alpina D3 BT
2005 Audi A4 2.0TDi SLine
1973 Series IIa
2001 BMW 320
1996 Audi A4 1.6

Just found it I think - LR056285 2012 4.4TDV8 AB
———————————
2016 Mercedes C350e
2003 TD6 Vogue
2010 Alpina D3 BT
2005 Audi A4 2.0TDi SLine
1973 Series IIa
2001 BMW 320
1996 Audi A4 1.6

Last edited by dibber83 on 24th Jan 2019 2:22pm. Edited 1 time in total

when you have the engine cover off, take out the pollen filter box (2 nuts) and check for any oil cooler leaks.....common issue. Just had mine done...plenty of posts on here about it so don't want to hijack this thread  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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