So just after my "safety" inspection I drive out of the lot to feel a spongy brake pedal. I go about 1 mile before my low brake fluid light comes on. It is leaking out the rear line(s) almost midway between the rear tire or at least that is where the puddle forms. Fill it with fluid to limp it back to the garage. They say to replace the rear lines yo need to drop the axle and possibly the tank too. Suggest I find someone to run new lines with a new path to the rears. Anyone have a suggestion? RAVE doesn't seem to address this problem.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25799.html

Thanks to joe90 I’ve done all mine following his guide Current: 16 my2016 Range Rover l405 4.4 sdv8 Aruba gold & 11 MY2011 RANGE ROVER L322 4.4 TDV8 ZERMATT SILVER

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59 MY2010 Range Rover Vogue L322 3.6 TDV8 Zermatt Silver
53 Range Rover Vogue L322 4.4 V8 Java Black
98 P38 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Champagne Gold

You do not need to drop the axle or the tank. My garage was given this advice by a so-called specialist and it’s absolute bunk.

There are a good number of people on this forum who have replaced the brake pipes themselves on their own driveway, it’s not that big of a job if you’re comfortable doing your own brakes. With the suspension on high, supported by axle stands, there’s a few covers you have to remove to gain access to the rear crossover pipe which is most likely the culprit here.

The brake pipes themselves aren’t that expensive either. If your rear crossover brake pipe is corroded then most likely the pipes that run front to back under the left hand sill (rocker) will be too, so get them replaced at the same time.

I had all that work done by my local garage and it cost me £230. 2006MY 4.2 SC
BMW R1250 GSA Rallye TE
Triumph Tiger 1050 (sold)
1979 Pontiac Trans Am (sold)

I've just had mine done @£250 for both front to rear and both rear flexis , flexis were ok but got them done any way it's a couple of hours work on the ramp nothing major to take off

Thanks folks this is great news. Joe90's write up looks fairly involved. Maybe just because of it up on jack stands. The shop I had it at wasn't a brake specialist shop. I'll see what the local brake shops offer.
Anyone know if Joe90 used plain copper tubing or the copper nickel brake line tubing?

Also when we say crossover line is that essentially the line that originates from the front, runs along one side and then goes across above the axle?

Yes the cross over line is the one that runs down one side and over the axle.

I did as joe90 did and put in a join made it so easy.

Personally I used copper piping. Current: 16 my2016 Range Rover l405 4.4 sdv8 Aruba gold & 11 MY2011 RANGE ROVER L322 4.4 TDV8 ZERMATT SILVER

Previous
59 MY2010 Range Rover Vogue L322 3.6 TDV8 Zermatt Silver
53 Range Rover Vogue L322 4.4 V8 Java Black
98 P38 Range Rover 2.5 DSE Champagne Gold

I used copper piping on my TD6, but more recently used copper nickel to do my MG Midget, just as easy to work with, and my flaring tool did as good a job, if not better. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Joe90. Ooooo MG Midget. Had a 63 in my early 20s when I knew nothing about car repair. Best junk car I ever owned. So much fun when it ran. Almost bought an 80% restored one last spring. Someday....but I digress. What cutting and flaring tool did you use? How much time would you plan for if just doing the lines to the rear wheels and adding new flex lines too? Also how long were the sections of line you used for each rear brake line?

Most of your answers are in my howto

See the youtube video for the flaring tool

Used @ 14m of pipe for the whole job, would allow @ 2.5metres for each of the long run pipes (that is if you do an extra join under the tank cover)



MG been 20 years in the making of its third restoration with me, nearly ready to start the engine, I have a spark, just need to add fuel! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Thanks Joe90. The link to the flaring tool video says it has been removed my the user.

Funny it was there the other day

Like this:

Thanks. Never seen one like that. Oh wait. Yeah that is like Eastwood flaring tool. They are nearby. Good stuff.

Well it seems that I can get a kit for the rear lines with pre cut lengths with fittings and flared in copper nickel for $80. Sounds like a headache saver.

If it is the single pipe that runs from the front to the connection on the other side of the car (L shape) make sure you can get the car high enough off the ground (or have enough clearance below) to slot it in.

You will also need enough space to drop the tank cover on the Left hand side.

Also, if you have side steps, you may need to remove the left hand one to run the L shaped pipe .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

My goal is to get as many covers off but still "safe" to drive up to my $30/hr mechanic with a lift. Figure with the 2 of us we could get it done in a couple of hours then pop the covers back on. Being a direct descendant of Murphy and ruled by his laws I'm probably going to get the 50ft Cu/Ni tubing, extra fittings and flaring/deburring tools. All four flex lines are on the way. Just got to get spring clips from dealer. Can't wait to move to Florida. Cold sucks