Good day to all.
Car when uphill and in high gear,think only in fifth,irrespective of petrol quantity in tank by the time rpm will reach arnd 3k is cutting power.I leave the acc pedal fr few seconds and power is restored.

Any ideas please what can create such a problem considering fact that secondary pump, bought from ebay,already changed,but still problem is here.

Many thanks for your assistance

It’s becuase you are putting petrol in a TD6
I have a similar issue which I have been fighting for a while
It can be fuel pressure from one of your three pumps but the code I get is turbo over boosting which I put down to the variable vanes being stuck solid but I stripped the turbo and the problem remains. It’s had new vacuum hoses and turbo actuator solenoid but yesterday I put in a new MAP sensor and now get a code of too high voltage going to the sensor so now I’m looking for a wiring fault.
Can you get codes read ?

is your MAP sensor at the back of the inlet blocked ??

Thanks guys.Unfo cannot read codes unless i go to workshop.
Strange is that when i installed both new secondary pumps initially problem solved but came back after short period.Also think when car in short distances is with no problem so i am with impression that whenever something is getting "warm" the problem starts

Wondering if there any way to test map sensor?????or just buy a new one

many thanks

Fuel filter perhaps? 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i

id be tempted to spill test the injectors

Thanks guys.Following jobs have been done since

I had first engine cut out while i was uphill and trying to overpass another car
Bing Bong sound and dash warning "injection fault system "appeared (if i remember well)

-Changed the secondary pump.Seems to be ok but after a month or so engine was cutting off
every time i was trying to exceed 4k revs but this time without any sound or written dash warning.
Had to let off acc pedal fr reducing revs and car was restoring power.

-Recondition/Service all 6 injectors
Nothing changed

-Re changed secondary pump and filter
Once again in the beginning not any problem,or at least think so,since i am with impression that if i will try to exceed certain nr of revs lets say 10 continuous times the first 3/4 times will be successful but as form the firth time will start the engine cutting off problems still without any sound or written warnings
Car has not any cold/hot starting issue or rough idle or whatever

Thanks

You need your codes read or you will on an expensive path of replacing your range rover a piece at a time.
If you are keeping the vehicle i would buy some diagnostics before going any further

Yes you are right.Can anyone please recommend a code reader (being not expert i donot mind if will not give me the ability to interfere in Ecu as long as will read faults)

Thanks

You say you have changed all injectors, but have you looked at the wiring harness to the injectors?
Due to heat changes, over time the insulation can stiffen and electrical resistance can increase, giving the same symptoms as defective injector, especially No.1 which is furthest from ECU.
I swapped mine and have seen no problems since. It's a quick and easy job <1hr but the part is expensive for a bunch of wires Andrew
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Defender 300tdi
RR Classic Off-road Trialer
BMW X3 E83
BMW 330 E46 convertible

Diagnostics !!

You can use Allcomms on yours but no use if you get a newer than 2005 model later.
Gap IID is good but more money.
I have heard good reports about icarsoft but not sure what model exactly https://www.ukpartsdirect.com/

Thanks guys.I will check injectors wire looming to see at least if any visible defect but yday in a trip of abt 400kms car responded without any cutting off inspiteof various experiments i did so to see under what conditions engine is cutting off.
Time to buy a code reader otherwise path will get more and more expensive as correctly mentioned by holidaychicken

Best regards

If you remove the top centre cover you will see the thick twisted wiring for each injector, all i nneded to do was touch the wiring gently and the engine would cough, it was injector 3 on mine, new loom and all good. It would even cough if i just pushed the middle cover down a bit

How to test injectors wiring well noted with many tks
First think i will do during weekend

Best regards

Something else to check is your turbo pipes and intercooler for splits or signs of leaking, the intercooler you can see looking at the front of the car under the bumper.
You could also check your turbo actuator is moving, you can only see it if you move the two main cables running from the big black ECU box under the bonnet on the left side looking at the car.
Make sure cables go back In their holders or they will drop down next to the exhaust and melt.
Turbo actuator should move when engine started and extend when engine off, you will need a torch.
Check vacuum lines to actuator solenoid and reservoir on the left inner wing looking at the car.
But as already said , diagnostics should save you a lot of time.

I had similar problem with the TD6 would cut power and even though i fixed the turbo vanes that had stuck I still had the problem. I removed the turbo again and found a split hose that i must have missed before which might have been causing the problem, i wont know until i put it back together.