We have an intermittent steering wheel vibration that comes and goes. Sometimes it is there and sometimes not Have read a few posts and after having the wheels balanced it suggests that it could be a faulty valve on the steering rack/box. Has anybody on here ever had this problem? and if so what was the outcome? Its a 2003 td6 auto with 80k.
Cheers Max.


Hi, just had the wheels balanced and they were perfect . There is no vibration at standstill. I also noticed that the vibration seems to start from under the car maybe towards the rear but then comes through to the steering and continues to shake the car itself. It seems to only do this when warmed up and after driving at 70mph for a short period . I also noted that first thing in the morning , when you put the car into drive it can take up to 15seconds before the car will drive, its like putting a manual car in 4th and trying to move off,then remembering and putting it in 1st. It changes gears ok but just that bit in the morning This car is beginning to me off !

i'll stab at this and say its the transfer box, hopefully i'm wrong...doesnt sound like the servotronic valve on the steering rack as i have just replaced mine and my symptoms were different [heavy steering].. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Could be a number of things based on what you say. Most likely would be burnt autobox fluid and this does cause vibration through the gears and slow changes.

But, such vibration could also be a propshaft out of balance or a combination of both.

If it were mine, I'd change the autobox fluid first. At 80k it's going to need it.

just found this on another site which 'could' point to the servotronic valve...

''it is caused by a valve in the steering rack that controls the amount of fluid to the variable speed steering. Owners with the vibration problem reported that if you accelerated slowly from a dead stop, the vibration did not occur. If you floored it, vibration every time. It appears that the valve could not keep up with a rapid change and malfunctioned (55 mph is where it is programmed to make a major adjustment in steering tension). The defective steering would then shake the car out of balance explaining why it would drive well for about a week after balancing, then vibrate again. The fix was a replacement part for the defective valve in the steering box. ''

maybe the gear problem is un-related.. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Hey Max,

Met you last year - Camel Trophy Defender

Good to see you on the forum.

Keep the faith, you'll find the answer to the issue, I've got a RR same model, year and miles as yours in the garage, air suspension issues and won't go into drive at all - so I know how frustrated you are probably feeling!

I can offer you the use of a wheel free lift exactly the same as the type in our local mot centres, it would let you get the RR up in the air and quickly run it up through the gears to see if you can see any prop vibration etc, however my gut feeling is the vibration won't replicate itself without the drive train being under road stresses.

I also have the diagnostic access if you need it, but you and Nick probably already have that.

PM me if I can be of help.

Stephen

I had slow take off from cold recently. It would take on occasions up to 8 seconds before I got forward motion. 1st gear Sprag clutch was the issue. Autobox rebuilt before it left me high and dry.

The other thing I've also had is when I replaced the turbo I inadvertantly failed to clamp one of the injectors fully home. This resulted in that one injector missing under load, really noticable when towing a caravan ... and solo vibrations came in at around 60mph. Removal of the injector, cleaning the crud off and clamping home properly had it sorted.

I'd take a wild stab in the dark and say gut feeling here is your autobox is the culprit. 2010 Disco XS TDV6, 2009 Freelander 2 GS

Previous Landrover products -1990 110 TDI CSW, 2003 TD6 Vogue - RRC TD Vogue, RRC v8 Fleetline, Disco ES V8 LPG, 101 Ambulance "Morph", 1964 SIIa Auto Powered by Jag 4.2 Lump - "Percy".

Thanks guys for the the replys and pm's. I think I have found the culprit, a sticking drivers side front brake caliper. i knew the front discs were slightly warped and were due for replacement anyway but todayby chance I felt the temp of the front wheels and the drivers side wheel was red hot ! So I have ordered new discs and pads and a new seal kit for the caliper. Will let you know how it goes.

I just had a similar problem on the D3 rear offside wheel - it was red hot to the touch and diagnosed as seized piston requiring new piston & seal kit but not disc or pads as these were OK

SORTED !

As suspected a front caliper. So new caliper ,discs and pads, drives like a dream!

glad my diagnosis was wrong..

Me too

definately me three

At least we are consistent  2010 Disco XS TDV6, 2009 Freelander 2 GS

Previous Landrover products -1990 110 TDI CSW, 2003 TD6 Vogue - RRC TD Vogue, RRC v8 Fleetline, Disco ES V8 LPG, 101 Ambulance "Morph", 1964 SIIa Auto Powered by Jag 4.2 Lump - "Percy".

max abbi was the problem in the end down to the caliper ?
my 2007 has developed a similar problem.
After standing for 2 weeks in airport carport when started and put in drive, it did'nt go anywhere, so put it in park and waited a min and then in drive and it was ok.
On the way home noticed a bit of a vibration at 75mph on.
I'm thinking a gearbox problem, I don't think the g/box should loose pressure.
Anyone else like to advise .

Had a similar problem with a rear brake caliper seizing and slowing it down intermittently after a few kms. First thought the worst, gearbox problem but luckily only the caliper or pads as the calipers are fine now. Car had been sitting still for 2 years after import here. Brakes all cleaned and new pads and problem is gone. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!