I had the same problem, but admittedly on only one pin.

Like CTC, I cut the pin centre out.

Since the pins only go in from the inside out, I was then able to drift the outside part of the remaining pin inwards until it came out, then used a long punch through from the outside to reach the inner part of the pin, using the hole as a guide.

With hindsight, it appears the the siezing came from the barrel spring that's used to stop the pins falling out. Probably an electrolytic corrosion reaction.

Freddie/Cavalier, I wouldn't worry about having them fitted with Copaslip, it looked like my originals had been fitted dry, so any lube would be better than none.

Mike

From what I have read, the copper speeds up the electrolysis process with the 3 metals forming a “battery” effect once they get wet, and any salt in the “electrolyte “ makes the problem even worse, but I am sure you are right, taking them out every 6 months and re-inserting them with just a touch of grease is the best solution.

Cheers
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

All I can say is 6 hours labor from Woburn 4x4 is about 2.5 hours LR rates, and knowing the chaps down there if there was a way to do the job on the car they would have... they have work rounds for most LR jobs especially the body off jobs for the Discos and RRS...

I can only imagine that the pins were so bad they needed to go in a drill press... don't forget we are talking steel pins in an ally caliper so one slip with the drill and it's new caliper required It never ceases to amaze me just how badly calipers are made.... you'd have thought that the manufacturers would have found a solution to electrolytic action, rust and heat.... obviously they are too busy selling replacement calipers to care  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

It's a little concerning, that a pin that is held in place by friction, is having grease applied to it

They are held in place by the spring that locks them using the wide groove in the middle of the pin.... I suppose it's a step up from a pin with a locking spring or a split pin, but only just.... For what is classed as high performance braking it's a rather low tech solution!

And the fact that they corrode means they are steel, why don't they use stainless steel for the pins? the cost would be pennies, but the advantages would be great...... One day Carlsberg might do brakes  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Maybe the pins and anti-rattle springs are considered sacrificial items that should be replaced at the same time as the pads?

I agree, having such a weight of vehicle with such momentum being stopped by such a penny-pinching setup is incredible.

Makes you wonder how many cars are out there on VERY worn pads? Or as the OP states, are being relieved of their cash for something so poorly thought through.....oh, wait, this is Land Rover we're talking about!

Mike

I had the same problem and cut the pins to get the pads out and then managed to get my ball joint splitter on the remaining stumps and pressed them out. They didn't half make a bang when they let go!
It was a bit tricky setting the tool flat but apart from that it was straight forward.  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i

Just as an aside, you can still replace the pads providing you only have one pin siezed.......simply remove one pin, then take the caliper off the hub mount.

I know it''s not the done thing but could help someone if you're half way through the job and get stuck.

Mike

Just wondering, has anyone found a suitable “G” clamp device for pushing the pins out ?

Click image to enlarge

miggit wrote:

And the fact that they corrode means they are steel, why don't they use stainless steel for the pins?

^ I agree re the comments about salt laden air. As I live next to a beach it is a serious problem such that each year I dismantle the brakes on the cars, clean them up and use a general purpose grease to reassemble. Never had a problem with corroded components yet. Used to be the same when I lived in Scotland, the damper winter combined with excessive use of salt on the roads caused same problem. I also grease the brake pipes to avoid similar corrosion problems, must work as I have never replaced a brake pipe in my life.

Baltic Blue - something like this worked for me!


 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i

this just seems like they need to be removed periodically to prevent this kind of thing happening

Baltic Blue wrote:

Just wondering, has anyone found a suitable “G” clamp device for pushing the pins out ?

from what I can see there is very little in the way of a flat surface perpendicular to the pins, so it would be next to impossible to get a straight push, which would increase the likelihood of damaging the caliper or jamming the pin  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Unnecessary quote removed

I know what you mean about the flat surface and I seem to remember shimming it out somehow to get the geometry right. Trouble is I can't remember what I used to do it.  2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE
1993 Discovery 1 3.5 V8i