So lots of warning messages and some basic checks later I've a hole in the drivers side front suspension air bag, I've had a search but can't really see an obvious answer to my questions-
Can I drive it for a few days while wait fir parts etc?
Passengers side was replaced just before I bought it with a Dunlop, I'm thinking Delphi as they get better reviews on here, will having one of each have any affects?
Once I've replaced it (which correct me if I'm wrong looks fairly straight forward) do I need to reset anything with diagnostic tools etc?
I don't want to replace it ignoring the above and find I'm in a worse place!

1. Drive it ?
You can, but run the risk of further damage - overheating compressor etc requiring replacement as well. Or the hole getting worse and leaving you stranded on the bump stops. I wouldn't....

2. One of each?
Shouldn't make much difference, and yes Delphi are seen as being a better option. Most agree that front struts should be fitted in pairs, but depends on how long ago your Dunlop one was fitted, if £££ is an issue.

3. Post fit?
No diagnostics specifically needed, depends if you have a hard fault on the EAS (doesn't reset after ignition cycle or battery reset. If so then yeas a diagnostic tool will be needed to reset the air suspension. You may need to calibrate, also depending on what heights you get at each wheel once up and running.

There is a howto on the wiki  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I have driven mine with a holed airbag for 2 weeks. Driver side front first went so drove whist waiting for replacement then after fitting the new strut the passenger side split immediately after the suspension pressurised so I highly recommend doing both unless you are sure the other is newish. The second weeks driving awaiting the second strut to arrive.
The car drove surprisingly well, with the suspension fault message on however I took things very steady especially braking and turning. Braking on a loose surface cause the offending corner to skid even under the lightest brake pressure but the car still stopped well. I had no real option other than to continue to drive but would not have done so given access to another car.
The Struts were very easy to fit, use axle stands both sides or prepare for major dramas and injury. 2007 TDV8 VSE
2003 TD6 gone.
2002 P38a gone
1999 P38a gone
1997 p38a gone
1993 VSE gone
1992 VSE gone
1966 Series 2a with V8 conversion gone

joe90 wayneg Thanks for the info,
The dunlop is under a year old and looks new, guess in the spirit of something else may break soon ill keep the cash for that!!
Ive not got any 'hard' error messages just intermittent - vehicle raising slowly and suspension will lift when system has cooled so hopefully no more pain there (i replaced the rear axle on my P38 and ended up needing to set the suspension up via laptop hence the concern)
The wikis great ill get out this afternoon and strip it out, should have time to collect and fit one from JSF in norwich tomorrow

Thanks again Andy

Getting ready to replace mine. RAVE always makes it sound like things are easy and straight forward. My lineage must go back to Capt. Murphy. What major drama and injury should I prepare for? Is it best to lift both front sides? I made the stupid error just last month with doing my BMW front struts and was only lifting one side at a time. Is the track rod ball smaller than the control arm ball? My ball joint separator is only 3/4 inch wide and didn't fit. Needed 20mm. How tight do you make the air tube connection. 3.2 NM sure is much. Do they even make a torque device to measure that small?

Never mind. NM not inch lbs. Duh. Roughly 30 inch lbs.

You don't need to have both sides up in the air, but as you will need to depressurise (unless you do the Storey Wilson valve block trick) you may as well drop the front onto its bump stops then get the whole front of the car in the air. You need weight on the wheels to help push all the air out of the air bag. I don't remember removing the track rod ends when I did mine.

Biggest issue will be how tight the strut bolts are. You may need a long long extension on your breaker bar.

Also, if you can, leave the original fittings on the air pipe. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

^^+1
No need to remove track rod ends just the drop links. And completely concur with point about undoing the bolts.

For the additional cost it would be worth considering new bolts as, if they are as tight as mine were, you may end up with them damaged when removing. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

Thanks guys. I have an impact gun and pipe extension for my ratchet. I'd be more worried getting it back on to that torque. Without a lift there always seems to be something in the way to be able to get your weight into it. I assume the iidtool can depressurize an individual strut enough to be able to drop it to disconnect the air line. Wouldn't that get any residual air out?.

My experience has been that if you depressurise a corner while the wheel is in the air, the air bag remains inflated, though not under pressure. This is probably more of an issue with the rear bags than the front ones though. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Well I dug into the air bag swap today. As usual i had help from Capt Murphy but just in a small way. First I took the advice from the iidtool instructions and deflated everything. Lifted just one side. I struggled with the end link nut because you need to access the shaft side from the forward side of the strut to get a solid grip. Once the nut was off it was obvious the sway bar was still stressing the end link so I lifted the other side and popped out the end link.
Next was the large strut to spindle nuts. I feared them as Scrooge feared the ghost of Christmas yet to come but they were not bad. The bolts were a different story. The lower one was not interested in moving. Took a good hour of PB Blaster, impact gun, hammering and wiggling the spindle to get the bolt to start to rotate in the spindle. Once out I found it prudent to remove the rust on the bolt with a wire wheel and coat with anti seize so not to go through that in 75k miles. Now I've run out of daylight and warmer weather until tomorrow. I have placed the new strut in place in the spindle and attached to air hose with new O ring. Just waiting for the morning.

Andyyav wrote:

So lots of warning messages and some basic checks later I've a hole in the drivers side front suspension air bag, I've had a search but can't really see an obvious answer to my questions-
Can I drive it for a few days while wait fir parts etc?
Passengers side was replaced just before I bought it with a Dunlop, I'm thinking Delphi as they get better reviews on here, will having one of each have any affects?
Once I've replaced it (which correct me if I'm wrong looks fairly straight forward) do I need to reset anything with diagnostic tools etc?
I don't want to replace it ignoring the above and find I'm in a worse place!

Spray the big bolts with some form of penetrating oil NOW then Tomorrow & the next day until you do the job... You have a much better chance if they ave already seized...

I would bare the extra cost and change both at the same time with the Delphi option sir... MUCH safer that way
Maybe change the rear shocks too (not a huge cost) that way you get 4 new shockers together