Hi,

Today (after just 1 week, I repeat 1 WEEK of owning my Rangy) the dreaded "Air Suspension Inactive" popped up on the dash of my TD6. The lights associated on the console have also gone out. I booked in straight into a local Specialist hoping that it may just need a reset or something simple. The diagnostic test suggested the compressor has failed, I'm wondering if I should get a second opinion before shelling out £450 or trust that a new compressor will put my relationship back on track!!


All knowledge and experience greatfully received

First of all welcome.

Second of all this has been covered very recently (yesterday) it is worth browsing through the technical posts or using the search function.

Thirdly, these guys obviously aren't "specialists" if they can only suggest that the compressor has failed... The suspension system gives quite clear and concise error codes with exactly what has failed or is failing.

If your compressor was at fault then you would have had 3 or 4 months of problems with the eas, mainly with it locking into standard mode as it tries to protect the compressor from getting too hot. Also the compressor failing would not mean all the lights go off on the dash - the fact the garage is suggesting its the compressor makes me think they are cowboys.

You would be much better off going to an actual LR dealer and getting them to tell you the fault rather than paying for someones guess work. Or better still, do the guess work yourself, buy one of these: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=77 It will pay for itself!

If you can do some of the diag yourself then we will all be able to help you much more.

Oh and have you tried just disconnecting the battery for 5 mins?

Dan 

Hi i had this problem lots of time and it drove me mad you really need a diagnostic tool to read fault code and reset they are not too much but worth it with other issues when you have the code i can advise remmidy

Regards

Stuart

Hi Guys,

I'm liking the sound of the diagnostic tool, I shall be ordering one shortly!! Yes Dan, I've disconnected the battery, replaced the 15amp fuse, talked to "her" nicely etc, etc!!

I'm devoting my day tomorrow to sorting it out, you're right, i was expecting an error code along with a lot more information on the fault, I shall stay away!!

Thanks for your advice, will keep you posted.

Regards,

Steve

right, the fault was there when you bought it, it was just reset and its taken a week to fault again.

1. lower the car to access height then lift it to off road, should take no more than a minute to lift, you have now also emptied your reservoir.

2. drop it back to access height then lift it again, it should not take much more time than above, its now using your compressor.

If it takes ages to rise buy a new compressor for £270 and fit it yourself, its an easy job.

If its lifting alright then chances are your compressor is fine. i take it you have paid the specialist to read and reset the fault so ask them for the fault code then post it here and also google it. 2004 black Vogue TD6

Also may be worth checking all the hoses between comp and collector. One becoming detached can cause it- also check the exhaust filter on the compressor- there are some pretty detailed threads on here about the filter.

Above all, as previously said the diagnostic tool mentioned above will REALLY help on this and many many other things!

EDIT: at least to do with suspension!

yes they are the way forward but it looks like he has paid for this code already though?

"The diagnostic test suggested"

Bit of ebay browsing yesterday i noticed the old banger p38 EAS reader is £20, i'm awaiting until a L322 reader is £20 or i get a suspension fault, which one do you think will come first...  2004 black Vogue TD6

letsavit2 wrote:

yes they are the way forward but it looks like he has paid for this code already though?

"The diagnostic test suggested"

Bit of ebay browsing yesterday i noticed the old banger p38 EAS reader is £20, i'm awaiting until a L322 reader is £20 or i get a suspension fault, which one do you think will come first...

Note that they use the EAS Unlock software - This is written by the same guy that sells the MKIII EAS Aktivate hardware. The software itself is free, Storey Wilson is an absolute star and I will pimp his wares any chance I get. It's unfortunate that this SW cant port over to the L322 from the P38.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=56

His Rover All-Comms Software will be the daddy though: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=18

Knowing him, it will be cheap and blow the competitors out of the water  

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

letsavit2 wrote:

yes they are the way forward but it looks like he has paid for this code already though?

"The diagnostic test suggested"

Bit of ebay browsing yesterday i noticed the old banger p38 EAS reader is £20, i'm awaiting until a L322 reader is £20 or i get a suspension fault, which one do you think will come first...

Note that they use the EAS Unlock software - This is written by the same guy that sells the MKIII EAS Aktivate hardware. The software itself is free, Storey Wilson is an absolute star and I will pimp his wares any chance I get. It's unfortunate that this SW cant port over to the L322 from the P38.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=56

His Rover All-Comms Software will be the daddy though: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=18

Knowing him, it will be cheap and blow the competitors out of the water

letsavit2 wrote:

dan_uk_1984 wrote:

letsavit2 wrote:

yes they are the way forward but it looks like he has paid for this code already though?

"The diagnostic test suggested"

Bit of ebay browsing yesterday i noticed the old banger p38 EAS reader is £20, i'm awaiting until a L322 reader is £20 or i get a suspension fault, which one do you think will come first...

Note that they use the EAS Unlock software - This is written by the same guy that sells the MKIII EAS Aktivate hardware. The software itself is free, Storey Wilson is an absolute star and I will pimp his wares any chance I get. It's unfortunate that this SW cant port over to the L322 from the P38.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=56

His Rover All-Comms Software will be the daddy though: http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?opti...;Itemid=18

Knowing him, it will be cheap and blow the competitors out of the water

yea, any guy that takes these computer's on wheels and dissect's it gets my respect. Any rumors on forums of price?

Not as yet, I speak with him occasionally but he's been "tight lipped" for obv reasons. Personally I really look forward to software that enables me to mess with all the cars systems, especially if it allows me to change the settings for things.

The other solutions on the market are too expensive and are locked to VIN, and whats the point if you cant help mates out with bugs... 

My car has had this issue for near on 8 to 10 months. I simply lock it so it isn't always pumping up and down. Fault rarely occurs on short runs, but push it on the bends and off it goes again.

I also have the reset tool and wouldn't be without it. Used it twice on vacation in the South of France. Of course I really should get the compressor sorted but all the other repairs have taken priority.  2010 Disco XS TDV6, 2009 Freelander 2 GS

Previous Landrover products -1990 110 TDI CSW, 2003 TD6 Vogue - RRC TD Vogue, RRC v8 Fleetline, Disco ES V8 LPG, 101 Ambulance "Morph", 1964 SIIa Auto Powered by Jag 4.2 Lump - "Percy".

S2WFR wrote:

Today (after just 1 week, I repeat 1 WEEK of owning my Rangy)

As was suggested, if the compressor is worn this problem would have shown for months. It sounds to me like you need to go back to the seller before throwing any money at the car... 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

Hi,

I've been in talks with the seller and he's happy to pay for a compressor if needed, I think he's as gutted as me!! I've just returned from a visit to a highly reccommended Mr James Webb in Worcester who has effortlessly (cost 0£'s) reset it for me. He says that the compressor is giving too much air to the rear o/s corner, if it happens again to call in and he'll see if the code is the same and take it from there.
Have ordered a diagnostic tool to hopefully save the trips. Cheers for your advice guys!!

S2WFR wrote:

Hi,

I've been in talks with the seller and he's happy to pay for a compressor if needed, I think he's as gutted as me!! I've just returned from a visit to a highly reccommended Mr James Webb in Worcester who has effortlessly (cost 0£'s) reset it for me. He says that the compressor is giving too much air to the rear o/s corner, if it happens again to call in and he'll see if the code is the same and take it from there.
Have ordered a diagnostic tool to hopefully save the trips. Cheers for your advice guys!!

The compressor doesnt directly drive the springs - it goes to a valve block, and generally from the reservoir first.

If the springs are "getting too much air" it could be a sticky valve block - not unheard of. It could also be a failed/failing cross-link-valve.

"too much air" isn't really relative to any code, Unless he's reading something like "RL + RR implausable height"? In which case that can also point to sensors.

We need those codes!  

Howdy

Hope it's not too late for this reply - just joined today.

Had the same on my 2005 TD6 facelift, three days after I bought it !

I took my motor to a local specialist (DLS of Wirksworth, Derbyshire - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED), who expected it to need a new compressor. They cleared the faults and I returned a week later after it had built up "new codes" from scratch.

Any road up, it needed a new dryer for the compressor and also a valve for same - TOTAL cost - approx. £165. Four months on, no problems.

My advice - establish a relationship with a recommended specialist and stick with them for servicing and repairs. It will pay off.

Good luck !

 Where do you go after one of these . . . ?