thanks for all the info. I have sent away for a sump plug repair kit which makes an m12 into m13. hope this works if not am going to go the suction pump rout which sounds a lot more sensible. will keep updated when done

This is my effort and what i used, possibly could have done with one less thread but i don't think it is going anywhere.
I was running out of time to complete project vanos..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-15-Piece-Thr...SwUuFWxJ7C

Helicoils are certainly effective, and a better thread than directly into alloy. Some of the truck sump bolts were helicoiled from new (Cummins if I remember correctly, but it's been a long time)

looks good is that m13 plug now ? and could you do it without taking sump off ?

I don't think you will be able to drill it with the sump in place as it's on the side and swarf would be a little concerning although you could run some oil through it after drilling and tapping to hopefully flush any swarf through but I would still want to do it with the sump removed to make sure it is square to the sealing face.
You could try a longer M12x1.5 sump plug as the standard is very short compared to the length of thread in the sump. Have a Google but that would be my first route.

My sump plug is still standard size as you drill and tap larger and then the helicoil brings it back to original size thread

http://m.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=M12+x+...+sump+plug

http://www.mafcobell.co.uk/Products/consum...d-washers/

If you are feeling flush (pun intended) this is the part number for a new lower sump LSB000210

"-----swarf would be a little concerning although you could run some oil through it after drilling and tapping to hopefully flush any swarf through"

When I did that on an installed Jag sump, I took the precaution of cutting an inch-wide strip of toweling and smothered in grease, stuffed it through the drain hole in to the sump, I extracted it after finishing tapping the new thread with one of those flexible claw things and it collected most if not all of the swarf. I figured any remaining swarf after flushing through a litre of engine oil would not get past the oil pick-up screen in the sump.

I think that worked OK - pity I failed to tap the hole square due to the difficulty in getting 'straight on ' access due to the proximity of the bell-housing, so it leaked afterwards!

You could always use one of these


https://www.amazon.com/ECO-PLUG-Aluminum-1...EW7ZP9W7F4

I have sent away for longer plug with built in rubber washer con shaped magnetic one looks interesting . I would be a bit scared of splitting plug hole though that being cone shape .I have a few options open which are all a lot cheaper than the stealers would want . cant seem to get a minute at the moment

I think a longer sump plug will solve it and cost less than a fiver

I think you are right without taking plug out for size are they m12 or m13 ?

standard plug is M12 x 1.5 pitch, have a look at the link above for the ebay items, there are quite a few with magnets on that look a lot longer than the standard.
I was going to take my sump off tomorrow but then my caliper siezed on so that is coming off instead ...

spot on longer m12 with magnet works a treat. tight as you like . dry as a bone for under a fiver. 15 min job next job rocker cover gaskets thanks holiday chicken for good tip .

Good news, it is a rare to solve a problem on the fatty for less than £500 let alone a fiver
i have done my cam cover gaskets more times than i care to remember as have many so stick around .
make sure you get the correct loctite sealant

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40...p;_sacat=0

Click image to enlarge

thanks for info could not see me paying £650 for a repair on plug . I have had gaskets for over a year just not had time to fit . I wonder if there will ever be a time when there is nothing to do to her .

I've had mine for 3 years ish and have spent probably £5k on bits and it still has loads of jobs that need doing, it is like painting the 4th bridge only more expensive !

PCV and pipes done yet, that's a fun one ?