Last year my RRS started to make a mess of the drive and I soon realised one of the pipes for the Dynamic suspension needed replacing. rather than pay the 2k quotation from Landrover I bought the £200 part and did it myself in a day. Not easy-easy but certainly doable for a novice.

Yesterday my 2011 FFRR 4.4v8 started the same nonsense so I've spent all day underneath tracking the problem. It looks like the power steering hoses have failed but after drying off, driving, drying off, driving I'm unsure whether its just one hose or two. Another thread showed a diagram "PO161680-04" (attached to this post) and part number 3493A is certainly one of soaked culprits. I cant however identify the pipe next to it, is it 3493B, because I'm best guessing this is where the fluid is weeping from and soaking everything below it as it runs down both pipes.

So, questions.
Any idea where I can get these parts apart from dealers?
Should I really replace the whole system whilst I'm at it.
If even possible for a DIYer to replace are there are guides? (I'm reading one of the downloadable manuals covering tdv8 up to 2010 which isn't entirely helpful as yet)

It looks a lot simpler than last years RRS so I'm up for the task if someone can point me into how to get access.

Click image to enlarge

I replaced the lower hose on my 3.6 TDV8 last year and it was a straight forward job.

It 3493B on your diagram.

The hard bit was removing the spring clips without disturbing the aluminium pipes leading to the cooler, then threading the new pipe in and out of the sub frame.

I don't think you can get these parts from anywhere else other than the main dealer.

Dan at Duckworths is the place to go for the hoses, if memory serves, it was around £30, but remember to replace the clips too.

Mike

Thanks Mike.

I read through one of the manuals last night and came across the instructions below. The two unions highlighted seem to be the area where fluid is weeping from and then running down over the surrounding area. (I've blocked the top section up with a rag today to see if my theory is correct) I'm considering just tightening the nuts (in purple) "a smidge" to see if that cures it first or otherwise replace the sealing washers as they are only a few quid each. I remember last years RRS where they practically just disintegrated.
As you've been in there is it doable or for the hassle just replace both pipes? One of them is £50-ish and the if the other you mentioned is £30-ish thats not too bad. Although a tenner for four washers would be better!

I actually thought it was a front end off job so although it might be fiddly I'm glad it can be done from below.

It was the other end that was leaking on mine.....where the hoses connect to the cooler.

If yours is leaking at the unions on the diagram, then it must be worth a wee tweak to nip up washers again......or check they're at the right torque, though from memory, getting a torque wrench in there would be difficult.

If it's leaking at one of the banjo unions I would try replacing (or annealing) the copper washers first. If they look OK when you take them off just warm them gently with a blowlamp which will soften the copper. Or, best bet is fit new ones.

Just to make things more interesting....

After stuffing a few rags around the suspected leaking area, but only to create a "block" to the lower areas, the areas and pipes below started to dry out therefore suggesting I might not need to replace any pipes at all.

Sorry I meant to add.

The wetness of the whole surrounding area made it confusing as to whether the leaks were coming from even higher above but then the penny dropped- all this is smack dab in front of the bumper air intakes and of course the engine fan. Its simply showering everything when you are tootling along.

As it was a lovely day I investigated further.

I confirmed there are three leaks all contributing to the stained drive.

Auxiliary radiator hose has deteriorated and the slightest notch hidden from view is slowly weeping. Anyone know what hose I need?
There is a nut on what might be a pump of sorts not far from that. Very slight weep and a quick turn with the spanner seems to have slowed it further.
And the supply/feed pipes as mentioned before. It looks like the pipes themselves have deteriorated on some of the pre fabricated junctions as well as a possible tiny weep on the washers. They are two very large pipes running the width of the car and theoretically shouldn't be a big roble if I can just get enough access. If someone has some access tips I would be grateful. Do I have to raise the engine? Drop the auxiliary cross member? remove the airflow box from above? After taking off both inner fender cowls I thought I might have better access but sadly not.

Help!

It helps when you use the correct diagram!

Click image to enlarge

A million to one chance combined with poor workmanship I guess.

Just discovered this in my power steering hose.

Just my 2 pence worth, but That would just be a band aid repair, if the hose is split there then it must be perishing, and will fail some where else later, best replace with a new one and have piece of mind than ave a major leak when you don't want it.

Totally agree on replacement but just wondered if a "bodge" would stem the leak for now.

Access was too restrictive to attempt a proper go but I tried as best I could today which failed. Like taking a knife from a wound removing the jubilee clip end from the pipe just made the leak worse. At least I know for definite what it s now.

As long as I can get the union nut off then I can do this at home as the pipe just runs under the engine to the other side and up to the reservoir with a spring clip. Time consuming but doable.

I have just replaced the two pipes from the steering rack.








The first pipe which runs from the rack to the cooler was corroded but not leaking but I took it off to get access to the other pipe (the one with the u-bend in it) which was badly corroded and dripping from the u-bend.

The job was not complex but very fiddly and i relied on a sharp light and my 19mm and 22mm flex head ratchet combination spanners because of the poor access. The new pipes came with washers on the unions which were held on by rubber inserts otherwise I would have been grovelling in the gravel looking for them every 5 minutes. Overall took about 1 hour. 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
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