Even though my fatty starts and runs very well, I'm getting a cylinder balance error on the IID tool. So at some point soon I'm going to run the live data and probably do a leak back test to see which/how many injectors are at fault. My preference would be to replace all the injectors at once but that is quite costly. Question is, are recon injectors worth it, or should I just bite the bullet and buy new ? The car only does a few thousand miles a year.

Last summer I had a slight misfire around 60mph on light throttle, which escalated to a shudder when manoeuvring at parking speeds.

Traced to 2 injectors on their way out, so fitted 2 recon injectors from Diesel Jones. On fitting one of the replacements had an issue with a non-sealing seal so was blowing compression out the body of the injector. Made an awful racket! In fairness Diesel Jones sent a replacement out next day FOC and that one was fine.

Just starting to see a hint of similar symptoms again this week, manifesting itself as an occasional slight hunting at idle and very slight juddering when creeping forwards holding the car back on the brake.

Looks like I'll be replacing more injectors in the near future In theory probably going to be 1 or 2 of the ones i didn't replace last summer. I'm toying with the idea of just buying four and doing the remaining ones in a single hit. 2004 Vogue TD6 - Remapped
2008 Porsche Cayenne S
1998 Lotus Elise

What sort of job is it to do yourself?

is it in the realm of a handy home fiddler!

I have worked on all my cars Mercs Triumphs and my defender but always left the rangie to someone else.

I wouldn't mind getting under the bonnet.

The theory of it is straightforward. Good write up in the wiki.

However in practice the injectors have a nasty habit of being perfectly happy where they are and not too willing to come out. You may need a injector puller tool, or alternatively look at some of the more, err, "heath robinson" approaches people have taken on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nK8MqxEeMJY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwZOTf8vYhE

Having said that mine popped straight out, no tools or health and safety issues involved  2004 Vogue TD6 - Remapped
2008 Porsche Cayenne S
1998 Lotus Elise

Having gained massive experience in dud ffrr injectors and glued in injectors (Mercedes Black Death) I have come to the conclusion that it is a job best done on a hot engine... which possibly isn't the best news as far as the TD6 goes, cos there is a lot more to remove.

However I would suggest that you remove the engine covers familiarise yourself with the bits that have to come off, but before you start get the engine hot... then go as quick as you can! The injectors can be tough to move, but provided that you can wiggle them, keep working them with some WD40, rocking them side to side and lifting at the same time... If your lucky they'll all come out..

Why hot? the crud that stops the injectors from coming out is a mixture of unburnt diesel and carbon.. when it's cold it sets like coal and locks everything in place. As the BMW engine has a top 'o'ring on the injector it really packs it in tight.. the mercedes on the other hand doesn't have the top 'o'ring, so it spues the sticky gunge all over the injectors and loom.. I removed the top cover on the ML to find that number 2 injector had disappeared under a large lump of coal like matter, which I had to chisel away for hours .. On discovering that another had gone a few days later I set about the seal change, on a hot engine.. all the coal like suff had turned into stiff treacle WD40 will soften this stuff to a degree, but heat is way better

Do not get a crow bar out and start levering the injectors out... or you will brake the plastic rocker cover / inlet manifold.

Once I'd removed my injectors I sent the lot off to be cleaned and tested at a Bosch service centre, they charge £17 per injector and they were returned looking like new.. except 2 that failed.. they cost me £135 each to be rebuilt, and they waved the cleaning charge.. they came back with a 12 month Bosch International Warranty... can't say fairer than that

Refitting the injectors, obviously make sure that the hole in the head is clean... if there is crud, it is best done on a cold engine... the crud really does behave like coal.. you can sand it, chisel it, and sculpt it which ever way you desire.. Try this on a hot engine and it just sticks to everything like melting toffee

New seals, obviously, can be held in place with a blob of grease.. tighten the 2 nuts on the locking bracket, get a drift or blunt bolster, sit that on the top of the injector between the black coil and the fuel pipe connection, and give it a sharp tap with a hammer, or a gentle tap with a big hammer, and nip the locking nuts up.. if you get it right you should be able to get another half turn on the spanner, returning it to the tightness that you started with.. I think that 14nm is the setting, with a donk you'll get another half turn restoring the torque.. more importantly you will also have an injector that is well seated into the washer  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I recently removed and replaced all injectors, took mt 2.5 hours tops taking my time. My injectors came out easily though.
There is a tutorial somewhere where the poster said he had to lie on top of the engine to get access to the rear of the intake to undo things. I found that totally unnecessary, once you remove the 2 x 13mm nuts from either sise of the cabin filter box assembly and slide that out from the bulkhead and remove it you have room to use a mirror to see the clip and plug that clips to the MAP and the bolt that holds a metal bracket. unbolt the bracket 10mm bolt and just unclip the MAP Plug , ( no need to remove MAP sensor, as it will come attached when you remove the intake.)

also helps if the bonnet is in service position and the car is in low mode  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I didn't even have to use service mode on the bonnet.

It helps if numbers 5 or 6 are being stubborn.... otherwise there is a chance of making your head ache worse  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thanks for the great advice ! I like the idea of sending them all off to be tested/cleaned etc. I'll see who I have locally to do that. The Fatty will be off the road for a while (if I ever get the flippin freelander running again) so I can take my time. I'll probably give the inlet manifold a thorough internal clean as well, and replace the thermostat at the same time. I'd like to do the glow plugs, but it seems like a lot of messing for little/no benefit. My fatty has started brilliantly all through the winter, even at -3, and its showing a glow plug fault on the IID.

The glow plugs, can snap off if your unlucky and require surgery to remove them, just be careful.

Last edited by lounge_on_wheels on 26th Feb 2017 6:16am. Edited 2 times in total

miggit wrote:

It helps if numbers 5 or 6 are being stubborn.... otherwise there is a chance of making your head ache worse