Been reading this with interest and must say you have the patience of a saint and you now must be very good at getting the box in and out... lets hope these last few niggles can be sorted easily...

Johnboy, your rattle sounds just like a worn out catalitic convertor, they rattle when cold,, then expand and get quiet.... quick fix, bash it with a hammer to bend the side into the cones and keep it from rattling....  Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I unscrewed the TC bolts, half turn to the converter, and screwed the four bolts.
now it seems the noise disappeared.
Pete, my patience slowly running out, but I did wrong procedure due to inexperience, and so I have no reason to be angry, but now is some really bad luck.
I tried to do another test, drove for 10 miles really well, and then bang error message again.
I think when oil temperature increases, while cold is really smooth.
perhaps as says JOHN, have a problem in the f drum, due to the grinding in the pictures, but the gasket is not touched,
I noticed that two times I received error downhill. I have no more idea

Now that you have fully driven it, just make sure your oil level is still full, especially if you are getting a downhill error, (oil level starvation at angle?), other than that, is it erroring on freewheel downhill? Or driving downhill, with foot on brake etc. To prove its not that freewheel one way clutch you had issue with.

today started car and put reverse, and the same noise as a rattle, and received immediately failsafe message.
I m pretty sure from torque converter, but I can't understand because is the first time, since refitted gearbox 4 times on last three mounths.Moreover the last time I have not touched any clutch pack or valve body, only replaced sprag freewheel and input shaft seals.
bad luck, never sleeps, and so another problem today, seems that my alternator do not recharge battery, and voltage with running engine is lover than 12 v. sometime recharge well and sometime no.
Infact EGS show me also voltage error togheter output rev sensor.
Anyone had a problem with alternator? I just read that bosch water cooled alternator is brushless and could be overhauledl, as a new alternator can be very expensive. There is a complete kit that include regulator, diode pack and bearing, I believe-
But there is 150 amp and 180 amp TYPE, which one fit RR?

Hello all, I belong on the list of people crazy enough to have a go at rebuilding the 5HP24 autobox, so have read this and other posts with interest and immense admiration and respect for those who have given their time and knowledge freely - but am now getting to the point of pulling hair out!

The original symptom was slipping when changing between 1st and 2nd gear, then banging into 3rd and putting up the fail safe message. All other functions work ok, no bad noises. A diagnostic check gave some faults, and the specialist diagnosed a torque convertor problem - I just didn't buy that diagnosis. I took the box out once, and discovered the bearing between B/C that usually wears had indeed worn, with the associated rubbing of the three nubs. No other obvious issues, so I just replaced the o-rings on the parts I'd reached and put it all back together. Of course the problem remained.

So for the second time the box is out, and it is now fully disassembled, with no obvious problems presenting themselves as I've gone along, in particular the E brake piston and seals look fine.

However the freewheel in the F clutch was able to rotate in either direction, this is the only problem I've seen so far. I've taken it apart, given all the cams a workout, put it back together and it now locks going anti-clockwise, and turns clockwise.

So question being could this be the cause of the 1st/2nd gear slippage?

Thanks in advance.

A faulty sprag OWC would certainly cause problems with 1st gear, but not 2nd.
This could be tested in the vehicle by using manual mode to select 1st gear as this applies the F-brake which then by-passes the sprag.

But isn�t your Range Rover a TD6?

Phil

Ah, my profile was out of date, my RR is now a 4.4 V8 Autobiography, but all other details the same!

It would drive in 1st and reverse okay, just didn't like going into 2nd. Was hoping the sprag freewheeling in either direction would be the cause, as every other part looks fine visually.

The plate pack in the f-brake, should it be a very loose fit? The piston has about 1/4" travel I'd say before engaging.

The hunt for the issue might continue then. I tested all the solenoids this evening and they all click when energised. I'm obtaining a new oil pipe to the E-brake as I damaged the old one getting the E-brake out. That might have been a culprit.

Yes, on the 1-2 upshift the E brake/clutch is applied and it takes over from the 1st gear sprag. The A clutch remains applied throughout as it�s used in 1st, 2nd, 3rd & 4th gears. 2nd gear is the only ratio which uses the E brake/clutch.

The clutch pack clearance for the F brake/clutch should be between 2.4 & 2.9mm with the wavy plate preloaded to 200N according to ZF specification 1055 700 100. This preload compresses the wavy plate to around 70% of its free height (i.e. from around 3.2mm to 1.5mm) so in the �free� condition the clearance should be around 1.7mm less than the 2.4 � 2.9mm tolerance i.e. 0.7 - 1.2mm. You certainly shouldn�t, therefore, be measuring �� !

Phil

Phil,

I was doing continuity checks on the wiring harness and noticed the pin outs weren't the same as those given in the wiring diagram or as described in the manual.

From Range Rover Description & Operation:

"The three shift control solenoids located in the automatic transmission (C0244) are provided a feed by the EAT ECU (C1835) on a YU wire (Pin 16). The EAT ECU (C1835) energises the solenoids by providing earth paths on O, G, and Y wires.

The five EPRS located in the automatic transmission (C0244) are provided a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) by the EAT ECU (C1835) on a P wire (Pin 12). The EAT ECU controls operation of the EPRS by providing earth paths on TB, R, B, K and YR wires."

The wiring harness I have has the control solenoids 1 & 4, and all shift solenoids wired to Pin 16, then control solenoids 5,2,3 wired to Pin 12. It seems to me this isn't right as Pin 12 is a PWM signal, and Pin 16 is high/low. I've attached a pic, you might be able to follow where the wires go. You can't see in the picture but the purple wires are slightly different shades where they daisy chain, and a bit of the connector has broken off. I'm tending to think someone has done a repair job on this thinking that the Pin 16 & 12 wires are earth when in fact they are not.

Also, on the output shaft, are there o-rings that fit in the last two grooves? I have the snap ring in that has the park wheel resting on it, seems like there should be some o-rings there to stop oil flowing past the spline.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Martyn

Your wiring harness is correct and the workshop manual description is wrong. Pins 12 & 16 are both 12v power supplies for the solenoids. The wiring should be connected like this :

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By the way, just curious, but have you removed the little black tubular sleeves holding the wires together between each solenoid connector or is that how you found it? The PTC sensor really shouldn�t be left to dangle like that, it should be held in by the sleeving.

Click image to enlarge

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, keep thinking I've found a problem, and then it turns out I haven't!

I got to the end of the build and spotted the snap ring, thought oh s**t I've left it off a clutch pack somewhere, but it was a quick job to pop off the rear output seal plate and snap it in place. I have a spare o-ring for the filter so that can go on too.

I snipped off the black protectors off the harness to check the wiring, I will tape it back up yes.

I'm just going to put it all back together then, because doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it. The valve body all looks good inside too.

Thanks.

I don't think a visual inspection works for the valve body, they need testing with a pressure rig...

Phil can do it for you, doesn't cost much to post him one...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

So the saga continues:

The box has been out twice now, first time replaced the usual worn bearing and some o-rings, the second time all the o-rings were replaced and the valvebody has been apart. The same problem remains with the gearbox going into fail-safe mode.

I have taken just the valvebody out and will be sending it off to a specialist for testing, hopefully a fault is found with it.

One thing I notice when I take it apart each time, it has a lot of grey stuff in the oil, it looks to me like molybdenum grease, is that normal? Or could it be coming from somewhere like the torque convertor which still contains some of the original fill of oil. Maybe someone has added something to the oil as a hopeful fix, or maybe that's just normal, i don't know?!

Not entirely happy with the amount of particles in that oil either. They aren't metallic, though starting to wonder how healthy the torque convertor is...

Pics attached below.

Not read the whole thread but when i did mine I had RRPhil inspect the valve body, I replaced all the internals that usually wear from the service kit, bearings and seals and any suspect clutch plates and had the TC refurbished by sussex auto parts.
I used a genuine filter and the correct mobil oil lt71141 ATF
So far all good after 12K miles