I see they commented that the engine was oily. Mine was, probably due to the old gaskets that were rock hard. And dirt mixes with leaks, and black grease is found on front of engine. Now mine is clean, and no leaks.

Mine now 30k on the new chain and guides etc, and all good!

Did you get the valley pan cover replaced?

If not, it's not the end of the world, but just keep your eye on water levels.

Great news. .....and we were right regarding engine IN!

Good job, that should see you ok for a while !!
my oily engine was from the vanos solenoid seals, the upper timing chain covers and the cam cover gaskets which should all be good now

How on earth did they get 17 litres of fully synthetic oil into it? I guess it could be done by leaving the drain plug out. Current:
- 2017 L405 3.0 V6 Autobiography
Sold:
- 2013 L405 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
- 2004 L322 4.4 Vogue (BRC LPG)
- 2002 L322 4.4 HSE (having fixed timing chain guides)
- 2000 P38 4.6 Vogue (BRC LPG)
- 1981 2-door In-Vogue
- 1980 Ex-Army SIII LWB
- 1976 SIII LWB
- 1968 SIIA
Stripped for parts:
- 2003 L322 4.4 Vogue

i think he mentioned, that they filled/filtered it, ran it, emptied it, and repeated, hence 2 fills of oil. (x2 filters)

Hi John boy, no they wanted another 3-4 hrs + £90 for the valley so I reckon it wasn't a problem before so prob best leave it.

Yep, they did 2 oil changes, found very little swarf but recommended another filter and oil change in 500 or so miles.

The only thing slightly disappointing is that it takes about 3-4 seconds to start whereas before it has always started on the first crank. Any ideas?

Might be fuel pressure related as the fuel line at the rear right as you are looking is a quick connector and would have been disconnected. You can test the fuel pressure is not draining back by releasing the schrader valve on the fuel rail when the engine is cold EDIT AND ENGINE SWITCHED OFF and making sure you cover it with a rag first and you should get a definite squirt and pressure release. It is just a tyre valve so press something into the hole after removing the dust cap.
Did they change fuel filter or anything else.

Does it start better if you stop and try to immediately restart ?

I found this which might help

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=445494

Hey @holidaychicken, super useful you listed all of the parts which is super amazing!!! - I've seen this kit, any advice on it please??
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/timing-chain-l322-p-34859.html

holidaychicken wrote:

Do not need to take out the engine, think only some of the BMW cars require this, most garages don't like to do the job.

I really took my time and it took me around 45 hours which included making some tools, rebuilding the vanos units and all the other stuff. You would need a cam timing kit which you can pick up from around �130 but double check it does the M62TUB44, you would need some form of breaker bar and 27 mm socket, my bar was around 5 ft long and there is a link below to some of the items i purchased.

Have your guides actually gone ?

My old chains looked identical in length to my new chains
There are a couple of guides for the cam chain tensioners which are a couple of quid and there are other seals and gaskets including the upper front timing covers and lower timing covers, vanos solenoid seals, non return valves, timing chain tensioner, crank bolt, front crank seal, beisan kit if you want to rebuild the vanos at the same time.
You may not need the chains and you could reuse your old coolant if necessary but oil and filter.
I reckon I spent �800 including the tools.


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