Hi i have a L322 MY10 TDV8 and went on a longish run put £50 in and the gauge read just over 1/2 did a few miles looked at the dash and the gauge read less than 1/4 i pulled over thinking i was possibly loosing fuel (well more than normal and nothing, waited a few minutes restarted and the level came back up
But later the gauge again showed low and has stayed there ever since i stopped again and brimmed the tank to be sure i would get to where i was going and home again
ive had a look at various web links showing this problem and wondered if anyone else had suffered it and what the fix was
any help greatfully accepted

Fuel gauge in my 2010 TDV8 packed up altogether about 2 years ago, with the tank full. Diagnos
ed as a duff sender unit and repaired under warranty, but its an expensive job if no warranty. Tank needs to be dropped and its a long job, so the labour cost is steep.

I'm not so sure that the tank has to be dropped, cos unless there has been a radical redesign on the later ffrr's there are 2 access panels under the rear seats that allow you to get at the sender's and the fuel tank pump  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

There are 2 in tank senders, one in each section of the tank, and the dash takes an average of the 2 if one packs up then the needle goes haywire.

As Miggit says they are accessible from the top of the tank, but some carpet and trim needs to come out first.

I'm fairly sure the senders are available separately from the in tank pump, it it's a while ago so don't quote me on that, I bought the parts and the Md did the job for me. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

I think you'll find that the pump unit side can only be had with the pump from LR.. that's not to say that there isn't some one out there doing separate ones... after all you can get the pump on it's own, just not for a Range Rover  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I think as a LR part it is the entire pump and senders, which is what I got from LR direct, I seem to remember finding out afterwards that the sender units were possibly available separately.

Might be worth a PM to Dan. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Exactly the same thing happened to my tdv8 my2010 - the sender and the fuel pump are one part and were only available from LR. It cost about 400ish for the sender and about two hours of labour - total bill was 540 all in including vat at a LR specialist

Mine does this occasionally so just in case I zero the trip when I fill up and fill up again just after 300mls - the only inconvenience to owning a 5.0L SC.

Oddly since I've been doing this most of the time its right, another thing to look out for is that the distance to empty reading is also screwed. Geoff

Well I've booked in to an independent after my local main dealer didn't return my calls, the gent at Paul Rutter's Land Rover Bognor Regis said it's wiring he's done 6 range rovers all the same problem corrosion on the pump and it's not covered under warranty so i called RAC warranty they said no wiring is not covered, man at the garage said the tank has to be dropped and quoted 2-£300 I didn't argue the sender or that pump can be accessed under the rear seats as I believe it's only the earlier models that require the tank dropping out, it's going there today as I need to drive to Manchester the weekend and need it asap but I'm going to hang around at the garage and watch the process and will let you know the outcome

Got the car back all fixed I was told it was the connectors on the harness to the senders aparekntly L
and Rover have advised dealers of the problem and there's a in line fix available from Land Rover (shouldn't that be classed as a recall) o well at least I know how much go juice I have now

Last edited by Haydn on 5th Jan 2017 8:47am. Edited 1 time in total

I bought my 2010 TDV8 in the summer and was told that the dealer had problems with an erratic fuel gauge, which he'd had fixed. He'd been using it as his own car for a few months.

He took it to a local Indy, who fixed the problem with wiring in under an hour. He also hadn't sent them the bill yet, which made them think that it wasn't a hard fix and didn't need any parts!

Been fine since I had it. Current: 2010 Range Rover L322
Vogue SE, TDV8 3.6, Bournville
-----------------------------------
Now gone: 2002 Range Rover L322
Vogue, TD6, Giverney Green

My out come of this problem was apparently a common one if you get this issue advise your local dealer you are aware there is a fix on the sender harness where the old connect is removed and a new inline connector to extend the length of the harness

I'm having an issue here also, gauge says empty, but I'm filling max 75 litres. So 100 litre tank is actually 1/4 full.

Found this:
After this initial diagnosis, there is a Land Rover bulletin covering all repair procedures for your reference. The bulletin number is LTB00566v6
If you do not have a TOPIx account or if your fault persists, please contact our Fault 2 Fix Team for further support
https://autologic.com/news/blog/friday-fault-2-fix-39

Would Land Rover fix bulletin items on a 2011 car out of warranty?

. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

gonna_go_double_r wrote:

Would Land Rover fix bulletin items on a 2011 car out of warranty?

Not for free  2021 D350 Fifty Edition - Carpathian Grey
2017 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography (2021-2024) - Santorini Black
2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster (2016-2021) - Santorini Black

Found the bulletin:

www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/.../TECHNI...0566v6.doc

Indeed the connectors as Haydn and steveball mentioned. Seems the sender works on a fine voltage range 0-5v so corrosion in the connectors as the cause makes sense. Wrong resistance = wrong reading.

Have owned a boat for many years and one-by-one connectors used to corrode up. Used Contralube 770 on any electrical joint I touched as a inhibitor. Boat people swear by it - including me!

I might try pulling the connectors and some Contralube this before I start cutting off the connectors. Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway