Current Setup:

2004 North American Spec Range Rover HSE

2010 (Grey Insert) Headlights up Front
2012 (Black Insert) Tail Lights (Rear Lights)

Front Has 2 x LED Interface Units (Sourced via eBay)
Back has 2 x LED Interface Units (Sourced via eBay)


Existing Functionality: Everything Works (Angel Eyes, Low/High Beam, Side Lights (NA Feature), etc.

Problem: Fast Flashing (Hyper Flashing) Indicators / Blinkers, Check Side Light Error, Yellow Light in Headlight Comes on when light switch is set to zero and angel eyes don't come on (Angel Eyes are not acting as DRL like in 2010+).

Remedial Attempt:

I tried wiring in PowerfulUK Resistors (Indicator wire on one side of the resistor, wire tapping into a ground tail light wire), still got fast flashing indicators/blinkers.

Side Light Error Still Shows Up, Probably will just stick a bulb in to make it go away.



So the main question is, how do I make these fast blinkers / flashers go back to normal speed?

Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you! Zambezi Silver Range Rover (2010 Autobiography Facelift)
Mercedes Benz GL450 4Matic (X164)
Mercedes Benz E500 4Matic (W211) (Sold)
Mercedes Benz 300SDL (W126)
Lexus LX470 (J100)
Audi A8L (D3 Chassis)

It does sound like there isn't enough load on the circuit.

If you have bulbs available, then try those - if that makes the problem go away & they flash at a normal rate, that would confirm it.

You can use LED bulbs, but they need enough load - there are some available that have that already, the other way - as you described are load resistors.

Load resistors are wired in parallel, across the bulb connections - so either one end of the resistor to each wire of the bulb - or connect one end to the POSITIVE supply side of the bulb and the other end to ground. But to make it go away you need to do all the bulbs.

I would have expected the LED interface units to have covered everything you need - but without knowing what they really are, it's hard to say.

Sounds to me like there is a floating earth fault.... I think you need to retrace the wiring, it sounds to me as the DRL's are earthing through the flashers... what happens to the angel eyes when the flashers are on? do they flash too? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Alistair wrote:

It does sound like there isn't enough load on the circuit.

If you have bulbs available, then try those - if that makes the problem go away & they flash at a normal rate, that would confirm it.

You can use LED bulbs, but they need enough load - there are some available that have that already, the other way - as you described are load resistors.

Load resistors are wired in parallel, across the bulb connections - so either one end of the resistor to each wire of the bulb - or connect one end to the POSITIVE supply side of the bulb and the other end to ground. But to make it go away you need to do all the bulbs.

I would have expected the LED interface units to have covered everything you need - but without knowing what they really are, it's hard to say.

miggit wrote:

Sounds to me like there is a floating earth fault.... I think you need to retrace the wiring, it sounds to me as the DRL's are earthing through the flashers... what happens to the angel eyes when the flashers are on? do they flash too?

I'm slightly cautions as I have no idea what the LED interface units are or how they are wired.

If you have them, start with putting standard bulbs back into the indicators and see if that fixes it.

The 'angel eyes' on the 2010 headlights were just sidelights - at least in the UK - and not DRL's - so it sounds like they are functioning correctly.

It does sound to me like you don't have sufficient ballast in those interface units, or they aren't wired correctly.

These are the rear LED Units I purchased: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/162305059479?ul_noapp=true


What they look like:

What did you use for the front lights ?

Similar box for the front except it had room for a 5 AMP fuse in one of it's wires and it had to be hooked up directly to the battery. Zambezi Silver Range Rover (2010 Autobiography Facelift)
Mercedes Benz GL450 4Matic (X164)
Mercedes Benz E500 4Matic (W211) (Sold)
Mercedes Benz 300SDL (W126)
Lexus LX470 (J100)
Audi A8L (D3 Chassis)

Not sure what the permanent power would be for on the fronts.....

Did you ask the seller about the problems you're having ?

Yeah a few months ago I contacted him, once the talk of me returning the rear light led units came and getting another pair from him, he disappeared from his email account ahaha. I messaged him today again via eBay and he did respond, I shortly messaged him pictures through his email and yet again he is disappeared from his email account. I think I get his message. Zambezi Silver Range Rover (2010 Autobiography Facelift)
Mercedes Benz GL450 4Matic (X164)
Mercedes Benz E500 4Matic (W211) (Sold)
Mercedes Benz 300SDL (W126)
Lexus LX470 (J100)
Audi A8L (D3 Chassis)

Alistair wrote:

Not sure what the permanent power would be for on the fronts.....

Did you ask the seller about the problems you're having ?

Relays will not cure the problem, they will make it worse... the LCM is looking at the different light circuits and measuring the amount of amps that are being drawn... LED's use a lot less amps and therefore the LCM thinks that there is a bulb blown and then all the blinking lights and Bongs and messages start

What you need to add is ballast resistors to each circuit to add the missing load back in, then the LCM gets the right reading and everything functions normally.

There are a few things that you can do, probably the easiest is to turn off the LCM for the light circuits that are effected.. You know what the next line is........

The Gap IID tool will do this

Not Got a Gap Tool Shame on you....

There is also a program available to download on the web called NavCoder, it will also allow you to control the LCM on a BMW system, SO YOU MUST NOT HAVE A TOUCH SCREEN ! Assuming that your lucky enough to have the non touch system you'll also need a lead like this http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-INPA-Ediabas-K-...SwZetXOuk1 That's the cheapest one I could find quickly your side of the pond, but if you get it from China then you'll be able to half that price, but it will take forever to arrive (4 weeks over here) Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Hey miggit thanks for the reply! Okay so I am in luck, I have the non-touch screen! I'll place and order on that dongle right away. Also question for you, does it make a difference if you wire in the load resistors for both left and right sides of the vehicle at the same time or do it just on one of the sides to check the indicator flash rate. Because I'm assuming the left side indicator circuit runs independently of the right side circuit, so in other words a load on the left side won't make a difference on the indicators on the right side. Zambezi Silver Range Rover (2010 Autobiography Facelift)
Mercedes Benz GL450 4Matic (X164)
Mercedes Benz E500 4Matic (W211) (Sold)
Mercedes Benz 300SDL (W126)
Lexus LX470 (J100)
Audi A8L (D3 Chassis)

If your adding load resistors then they need to be around 35 watts each and you'll need to add one at each indicator that has been changed to LED.. However those rear light adaptor boxes are normally OK so I would look at just doing the front lamps to start with... having said that you can get load (ballast) resistors 10 a penny... well more like under $5 for a pair  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!