Any ideas? There's been knocks and bangs l over the place for a while now, finally getting to them since changing my front airbags and struts

Only hear it at low speed when turning left and occasionally when braking!

I'm guessing a bush or a ball joint... any experiences? 

Had this recently. It got worse and worse until even the missus noticed. Eventually took it to my Indy who diagnosed drop links and control arm type things. Did the lot plus nearside suspension turret bearing. Pleasure to drive again after fettling. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

Hm that sounds like it might be good.

I have changed the drop links already, just need to get the washers to put behind them as they weren't present when I took the old ones off, thanks for reminding me!

Hoping the suspension turret bearing is okay as just had brand new struts, wouldn't have thought it was that!

Leaving a control arm, unfortunately there are two lower arms on the front so will have to find out which one is causing the problem! 

Time for an update!

Been under the car tonight whilst I had an assistant (happened to be my boss ) turning the steering wheel to re create the noise.

The noise appears to be coming from the lower front suspension arm ball joint (thats the straight arm) the ball joint is all over the place, i.e completely knackered!

Ordered a new one from Euro Car Parts (Lemforder, which I believe the build quality is as good as Delphi) for only £65.00 with the XMAS25 discount code, bargain really compared to everywhere else!



Will be picking up and fitting in the morning, only had one in stock so will hopefully order the drivers side one for next week  

Both lemforder and Delphi are oem, so no problems on quality there. for example the original ARB drop links are lemforder, as are the other ball joints. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Is there any way to find out? Or just hear it on the grape vine?!!

I used Delphi drop links when I changed them, got a cracking deal for a pair on eBay.

The washers are a pain, will have to phone my local main dealer tomorrow, unless they are the sort of thing I can get from a Screwfix. I know they are M12, but not sure if they are a certain thickness or the like!

Online they are 50p each inc. Vat, with a fiver delivery!! 

I think it just depends on who was the nominated supplier at the time the car was made. I ordered a set of OEM arms from ducky Dan and a set of ball joints which Were gen LR. Then ball joints were lemforder in a LR box, the arms were Delphi, I just replaced he drop links on mine and they were lemforder in a LR packet too. I wouldn't worry about lemforder parts, they are part of ZF! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

That makes sense!

I did a Google first and lots of BMW owners swear by them, especially ones with performance cars such as the M3!

Hopefully it will quieten my suspension, for a week at least  

Washers are RYF000021

Try Dan duckworthparts, he does free shipping to forum members.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Cheers, have got the part number.

Will give my local dealer a call first thing tomorrow as they are on the way to Euro car parts, if they have them in stock I will pick them up, if not will order off Dan as it's a bit out the way to go back to dealer.

Here's to hoping I can fix the damn thing! 

Before I start to do the lower arm, the torque settings are:

Quote:

Lower arm to sub-frame bolt:
* Stage 1 165nm
* Stage 2 Further 90 °

Now i'm guessing this is with the car completely on the ground with the wheels on, do I tighten to 165nm then turn the nut/bolt another 90 degrees?

Or do I tighten to 165nm with the car jacked up, then another 90 degrees when lowered? I can tell already it's going to be a to get the torque wrench in there!! 

Since it only groans on turning left, I would simply follow the political zeitgeist and only turn right

berkshirelad wrote:

Since it only groans on turning left, I would simply follow the political zeitgeist and only turn right

Thinking of which, on my commute to work I only have to turn right, except when I get to the end of the business park I have to take a left, its the journey home that the problems occur

Will tackle it in about an hour, can't wait. Knocking noises really really annoy me and hopefully it will make the ride a bit better, the car has felt all over the place in the last few days since I've noticed it getting worse. Probably owed to a pot hole that West Berkshire council don't seem to give a about!

Going to strip down the brake calipers while i'm at it as well, hopefully get rid of the 'bonk' as I hit the brakes lightly. Did some research earlier and it's possible that the retainers for the pads either aren't fitted or haven't been put in properly. If that fails, at least the greasing will stop the squeaky brakes. Doesn't look very good in Pangbourne, for those who don't know this area its a little quiet village full of zebra crossings and old people. I happen to work there! 

Tighten on the ground, so the bush is seated in the right position. It's a PITA to get the torque wrench in there, don't ask me how I know, suffice to say I had paid for the job to be done wrong..... There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Just for those who ever find this thread in a search because their car groans when they turn;

It cured my problem, to go over things:
1) undo the height sensor from the lower suspension arm, in my case it was a 10mm spanner and socket, was easy to undo and tuck out the way

2) undo the ball joint, 21mm spanner as you can't get a ratchet or socket in it due to the driveshaft!

3) use a ball joint splitter to remove the hall joint, mine took about 50 hits from a dead blow hammer but came off eventually!

4) undo the 21mm nut and bolt holding the arm to the subframe, I found the best way was to put a spanner on the nut and wedge it against the anti roll bar, and undo the bolt with the ratchet!

So the arm is off, follow the guide backwards to refit the new one! Put a bit of copper grease on the nut and bolt holding the arm to sub frame.
If the ball joint spins when doing it up, jack it up a bit and it will be fine. Iirc the ball joint nut should tighten up 80nm!

The bush on the other end, do it up then put the car on the ground before torquing up to 165nm + 90 degrees.

No more squeak or rattle from that side, just the drivers side now! Couldn't be bothered to do the brakes so will another time!

Finally, the oem height sensor I got from island 4x4 didn't have threaded holes to hold it on the bracket so had to find some large self rappers