Hi all,
My 2003 TD6 has developed a very intermittent annoying fault.
When driving and the gearbox changes from 4-5th, it can`t decide which gear to select, then the "select neutral" warning comes on and then low range warning light flashes, it loses all drive, you coast to a halt, wait an hour (ish) then normality returns till next time!!! Used to only do it after 15 or so miles, now it has just done it after 4 miles from cold!!
My local LR specialist advised I had the gearbox, torque convertor and cooler etc flushed by a gearbox specialist, new filter etc etc, which I had done. Pressures were all over the place to start with, but all went well and everything flushed out ok and readings were as they should be. Was ok for a week then it happened again, but as said the fault is very intermittent so a week gap isn`t unusual! Now, as above, it happened after only a few miles! Hence we are not using it anymore!
Also the battery foes flat if it is not used for a few days. I have replaced the battery and checked charging etc.
A friend of mine has scanned it with a Snap On scanner, there were no gearbox codes stored, but three transfer box codes stored, being; OX5223 Noise on actuator signal, OX52F1 Encoder signal error, and OX5212 Battery under voltage.
I`m on the verge of getting the gearbox rebuilt as advised by LR specialist, but as its obviously something overheating and cooling down I not sure it`ll cure it??
So am hoping someone can advise me?
Fingers crossed......

I would say low battery voltage and/or a faulty transfer box shift motor potentiometer. Doesn’t sound like a transmission issue to me.

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Hi Phil,
That`s excellent thank you, I had read similar but was being guided into having the box done, which wasn`t ringing true with me.... Do you know if this item is a straight bolt on job, or does it need coding to the vehicle?

The shift motors are just plug-n-play, they aren't coded to the ECU/vehicle.

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Oh, and just check that you don't have a fuse installed in position 37

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Transfer box motors are now being refurbed (including a new poteniometer) for a more sensible price and with a years warranty.
http://www.4x4lro.co.uk/home

I haven't used them so can't say if they are any good or not but it's certainly a lot cheaper than a new motor.

They're not hard to refurb yourself. But it sounds like battery as I believe they use a reference voltage to decide what position they're in. When I did mine I found it to be very very sensitive.

Weejock wrote:

Transfer box motors are now being refurbed (including a new potentiometer) for a more sensible price and with a years warranty.
http://www.4x4lro.co.uk/home

I haven't used them so can't say if they are any good or not but it's certainly a lot cheaper than a new motor.

Considering the problems people have experienced in the past trying to fix this isue thats excellent news , well found
I know that address can't go in the Wiki but it needs to be stored somewhere doesn't it ? 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Just to give hopefully all the answers regarding the Transfer Box motor (2002-2006) have a look here:

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15193.html

No fuse in 37, thank god, that would have been embarrassing!
Happy to get a new one (was just about to put £2k into gearbox!!), but thank you anyway WeeJock for the info.
Battery only goes flat if not used for 5ish days, never a problem when in daily use, and the battery under voltage code was only stored in the transfer box ECU, and nowhere else, could this unit being faulty be relevant to may battery going flat? Probably clutching at straws, but thought it was worth asking!

I suspect a new one will have the same problem if the battery voltage is down. If you turn the ignition on with your window open you should hear the motor move a little as it finds it's position. The other thing you can check is whether (with battery voltage good) you can shift into and out of low range. Repeatedly.

It's really easy to pop the motor off (3 x 10mm bolts and the wiring connector), open it up and get a meter on the pot to see if it has dead spots at the high range position. Then it's an easy fix. Mind you, I'm stingy and resent paying good money for stuff I can figure out myself.

Hi,
Battery is fully charged, been on all day. Can`t decide if I can hear anything move when I turn ignition on as it`s really windy here. But I can go in and out of low repeatedly as many times as I like!!
I`m not in a position to remove it and strip etc, but are we thinking the battery issue is causing this, or is this causing the battery issue
Thx in advance!

If you can go in and of of low reliably, I'd be looking at the voltage. However, a scan with a RR specific scanner may give you more info (I'm not sure about that).

I'd also look at cooling. When was your last radiator change? The bottom can silt up so the engine cools but the box doesn't. Are you losing any coolant?

Diagnostic units won't pinpoint battery drain...

Lots of info on what to look for in the wiki and use the search function, from satnav DVD not switching off to stuck headlight wiper, and lots in between....

Worth a drop test on the battery, it may be on it's way out.....  Pete

__________________________________________________
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2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
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No coolant loss at all, might see if I can get a LR scan??