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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1526

Australia 

miggit wrote:
Shocked How big do you want to go?

You can already get a 110Ah battery under the hood and fit the same in the back and you'll have 220 Ah, any bigger and you'll be robbing a big rig for a battery Wink


A 110aH won't fit into the hole on the RHS. I found with the P38A, that a 100Ah deep cycle combine with the starting battery (through a dual battery system) wasn't enough capacity when running the fridge in summer. The car interior could easily be over 40 deg C. I use solar panels to keep the battery charged when camped. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #406949 29th Sep 2016 11:00am
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miggit



Member Since: 12 Jul 2014
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 3657

United Kingdom 

Whistle OK so I got the sizes slightly wrong..... was only trying to help Rolling Eyes

I did suggest that the OP tried a new 020 AGM in the engine bay FIRST before adding another battery.... so the 020 wont fit in the boot box, so fit a 019 AGM which is the same height, width and 2" shorter..... it is only 95 Ah....AND?

The other observation is the AGM batteries have a smaller Ah than the wet batteries, I thought that the 020 was 110Ah.... turns out it's 105Ah...... but that's still a combined capacity of 200Ah AGM which are a high duty cycle and will take multiple discharge / recharge cycles in their stride Thumbs Up Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Post #407054 29th Sep 2016 10:56pm
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bruzer



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 44

United States 

Weejock wrote:
What extra electronics have you installed that should effect the drain that much that starting is now a problem?


Well, I'm not sure anymore if it's the electronics that is the culprit or just an aging battery; I did buy the car used last Nov. and don't know how old the installed battery is. The first time the car didn't start I was tinkering inside the car beforehand for about 20 minutes with a door open and in ACC mode for part of that time - low battery warning came on, then the car shut off, eventually the door and cabin lights went out and then the car wouldn't start. I imagine I should get more than 20 minutes of power running from the battery (its reserve capacity at 25A is rated for 175 minutes). The electronics are just a GPS device (12V 2A max), a bluetooth GPS receiver (5V 500 mA max) connected to a USB powered hub (12 - 24V input, 5V 8A 40W output) and a dashcam (12V 1A max) all connected to the cargo area/boot/trunk's accessory socket (20A). I can't do the math right now, but I can't imagine those drawing anywhere near enough amps to rapidly drain the battery. I initially thought the trunk socket was staying on overnight when the car is off, but it doesn't appear so.

So old battery or too many things drawing power at startup?

Post #407477 3rd Oct 2016 3:08am
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miggit



Member Since: 12 Jul 2014
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 3657

United Kingdom 

Ah ha..... we now have a eureka moment Very Happy Assuming that your HSE is a 2002 - 2005 car, then the problem is the power socket in the trunk is always live..... you may as well leave the headlights on as well, and really do the job properly Shocked

All is not lost however.... as you have used the accessory socket in the trunk, there is the aux fuse board behind the panel next to the socket, I would go in there and find a power feed that is only live when the key is turned and wire to that..... FYI the best way to do that is use a relay, switch the relay with a tap from the switched live, and then feed the main power part from the large + on the panel..... that way you'll get a switched live, and the car wont be having a party without you Thumbs Up Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Post #407485 3rd Oct 2016 6:34am
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bruzer



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 44

United States 

It's actually a 2010 supercharged. And the cargo socket is unplugged every time I get out the car as a precaution. This morning the car didn't start up after sitting for two nights straight. Battery voltage was at 9.8V. Took my car into the dealership this morning for it's 75,000 mile service, mentioned the battery issue and they said you're not gonna get more than about 20 minutes on battery before the system shuts down - claims this is by design. They're going to test the battery, test for unexpected power draws, etc. (says car shouldn't be drawing more than 0.35 A when off).

Also says customers haven't had much luck with AGM batteries in these - claimed it just didn't work/startup for some. Recommended I stick with Interstate Batteries brand (was going to get the DieHard AGM battery).

I'll let you know what they find.

Post #407586 3rd Oct 2016 7:13pm
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miggit



Member Since: 12 Jul 2014
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 3657

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Shocked I'm shocked that they haven't tried to flog you an OEM battery.... as I very much doubt that Interstate are the make that the car is supplied with..... I could be wrong, but I would have expected it to be a German / British brand... Still if your car's 6 years old it could be the original battery and it's just got to the end of it's life.... most are rated at 4-5 years.... you know that they aren't going to warranty something that isn't expected to go the distance.... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Post #407627 3rd Oct 2016 11:00pm
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bruzer



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 44

United States 

Dealership tested the battery and it failed. That solves that mystery.

I'm no longer interested in Optima yellow top batteries (under hood/bonnet nor in trunk/boot) - too many folks reporting issues with them in the last couple years (reliability seems to have tanked since they moved it's factory/manufacturing to Mexico years ago).

I'm still interested in an AGM type of battery (despite dealership's advice... I love trying and failing anyway) so I'm going with a DieHard Gold AGM since it features 120 more CCA and close to the 100 Ah capacity of the failed/outgoing lead acid battery. Plus it's $200 cheaper than the same model replacement the dealership sells.

Post #407661 4th Oct 2016 9:45am
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miggit



Member Since: 12 Jul 2014
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 3657

United Kingdom 

Good Luck Buddy Thumbs Up

Fyi a dealer is never going to recommend non standard part... it would be admitting that the factory got it wrong to start with.... they'd have the lawyers queuing up at the doors Wink

I have no experience of the AGM batteries, but there have been a few on here that have fitted them.... haven't seen any complaints........ Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Post #407674 4th Oct 2016 11:26am
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cliff5.0sc



Member Since: 29 Dec 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 137

I use an O'Rileys Auto Platinum I think size 49 and 110 ah. It is an AGM. Sears AGM seems cheaper. I think almost all of the AGM batteries (sold in the US) are made by the same company in the USA. I would go AGM personally.

They don't sell british or european batteries here afaik. Whistle OffRoadRover.com An American Western Range Rover Off Road Blog

Post #407873 5th Oct 2016 11:49pm
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bruzer



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 44

United States 

The battery is rated at 730 A, but when they tested it it could only put out 306 A. The battery was installed 3 years and 2 months ago, which means it was a replacement and the battery it replaced (most likely the original battery) also mustered about 3 years. Is this the normal lifespan of lead acid batteries with these vehicles?

Either way they replaced it with the same model - they already had it removed since they were checking the warranty, so I got lazy and said they can replace it. AGM will have to wait until this dies in 3 years.

Now, I'm shifting to the next option; battery in the trunk/boot. Any known lead acid batteries that'll fit there?

Post #407881 6th Oct 2016 6:55am
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bruzer



Member Since: 16 Nov 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 44

United States 

miggit wrote:
Have a look at this Thumbs Up

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic26065.html?highlight=battery


Nevermind about the battery in the trunk/boot question, just remembered a solution was already referenced earlier the the thread.

Thanks everyone for your help on the original and subsequent questions.

Here's what I've learned from this whole experience:

- Optima yellow top batteries are a bit more involved to custom fit/install in L322 because of height
- Optima yellow top batteries current top capacity is only 75 Ah compared to 100 or 110 Ah of OEM/factory batteries
- Optima yellow top batteries have numerous reports of reliability issues since factory moved to Mexico years ago
- L322, or at least MY2010, will only run 20 minutes on battery before shutting down (by design) no matter what the reserve capacity is rated at for the battery
- most batteries are rebrands of about 3 actual battery makers
- AGM batteries are unofficially advised against by dealerships for Range Rovers
- a secondary battery in the trunk/boot may be the best option if installing extra electronics and concerned with power consumption and vehicle starting issues (battery must be the same type, AGM or lead acid, as the front battery)

Post #407891 6th Oct 2016 7:51am
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miggit



Member Since: 12 Jul 2014
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 3657

United Kingdom 

bruzer wrote:
The battery is rated at 730 A, but when they tested it it could only put out 306 A. The battery was installed 3 years and 2 months ago, which means it was a replacement and the battery it replaced (most likely the original battery) also mustered about 3 years. Is this the normal lifespan of lead acid batteries with these vehicles?


My ffrr has a Bosch battery in it and it's a 5 year warranty Shocked so the answer to your 3 year question is.. yes Rolling Eyes if you fit cheap batteries, no, if you fit a quality item, Whistle which from what I gather is of no use to you as you have the option of cheap and expensive cheap quality, D'OH! Shocked

As for battery options for the boot / trunk, as long as it's 190mm (7 31/64")heigh, 175mm (6 57/64")wide and less than 354mm (13 15/16") long then it should fit. Thumbs Up Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Post #407898 6th Oct 2016 8:19am
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p38arover



Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1526

Australia 

I had to replace the batteries in my wife's mobility scooter last week.

When I pulled the old batteries, I thought "Hmmmm. I wonder?"

I found that two 45Ah deep cycle VRLA batteries fit perfectly into the well at the back of my L322. I'll wire them in parallel for 90Ah capacity.

The batteries I bought for the scooter are Neuton Power NPD12450. I'm buying another two for the Rangie.

Dimensions and Weight
Length ( mm / inch )………………………………....196 / 7.72
Width ( mm / inch ) ………………………....…...…166 / 6.54
Total Height ( mm / inch )………………..………..175 / 6.89 Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Post #408768 11th Oct 2016 10:54am
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