Im doing battle with the lower control arms on my l322 2004

done the front one no issues, but i cannot get the pressed ball joint out on the upper one

I've gone caveman on it with no joy, has anyone used a puller or can anyone suggest a creative way to remove it?

I am now thinking angle grind a bit of the edge off hopping to be able to knock it threw after

thanks
Neil

Last edited by cliffy on 3rd Oct 2016 6:51pm. Edited 1 time in total

Spray, hammering, spray, chiselling, spray, impact chiselling, heat, spray, more hammering, spraying and chiselling. It is all about breaking a ring of corrosion between the ball joint body and the hub. Nightmare. Main problem is lack of clearance for swinging various hammers. 2014 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography & 2015 3.0SDV6 HSE Lux Discovery 4
2005 4.2 Supercharged Vogue SE & 2011 3.0SDV6 HSE Discovery 4
2002 4.4 Vogue
2000 4.6 Vogue
2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE
2009 Freelander 2 TD4.e 2009
1992 Mercedes 300D
1986 Renault 2.1 Turbo D
1976 Morris Marina 1.8

If it's the one in the hub with the two ears and knocks out downwards then I heated mine up with a gas touch and hammered it from the top and inwards and also drove a chisel in under the ears where the bolts go through and it started to move. I did consider chopping of the ears and putting a socket or spacer over the threaded section and drawing it out using a nut on the thread but this may just pull the ball out of the joint..
Heat and hammer and chisel , I have a small club hammer which is a nice size and heavy.

Heat
Soak with WD40 over night.
Heat
Get something like this on it;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/121961407217?lpid=107&chn=ps

Throw the dunny door at it mate

If it's the one I'm thinking of that type of splitter won't do it, the other thing I did was get the jack supporting the hub next to it to give me something to hammer against.
Have a look here if I am allowed to post to the a different forum, its after the cv joint removal
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cv-...st-3432851

I had to do a small mod on my splitter to open the throat a few MMs.
Patience helps.
I know it can be very frustrating getting ball joints out.
When ever I re assemble I always put a touch of never seize on this sort of component, mind you I have never had to change the sods on any of my vehicles over the last 30 years, but im sure the next spanner monkey appreciates it.

Thats a good pictorial, I cant believe how rotten the underside of FFs get in the UK, I wouldnt buy any of the vehicles that I see the underside of in the UK.........must be the salt on the roads in winter I guess.

We get waves of collectors through aussie looking for cars from the outback (its dry) old landrovers are popular currently, picking them up cheap and shipping them back to the UK is profitable it seems, Japan is a pretty popular destination as well.

Done it just got to get tracking done

Bit late to the party but next time try a proper penetrating oil. WD40 is pretty good but there are better, fundamentally WD40 was not designed as a penetration agent. Says something when the company behind WD40 make their own penetrating spray that isn't WD40.

I had my eyes opened a while ago and bought some Swarfega Duck Oil. Makes a hell of a difference compared to WD40, another recommended one is PlusGas. Well worth having a small spray bottle of it lying around.

That combined with my latest toy, an impact hammer rated to 1500+ftlbs when undoing (it's "low" torque setting is 100ftlbs FFS) most things shift pretty easily.  Ed

For the sake of a very small amount of never seize on the FF assembly line all this can be avoided, it could save millions of wasted man hours.
50/50 trans fluid and kero is a great penetrant.

WD 40 make a specialist fast release spray and Halfords do a shock and unlock spray which I have used both on large bolts on the RR.
Did you use dynamite to get those out ??

Went caveman on them

But I can feel it today, on a plus car is all back together lol and the bushes were all mullered all round, anti roll bar bush is now on my list as well

Nice one, did you remember to tighten the inner arm pivot points with the weight on the car?
I drove mine up on two railway sleepers so I could get underneath with my torque wrench, happy days!!

Is it not possible to drill out as much material as poss from the flat upward facing disc of the ball joint so creating room to smash the outer metal inwards away from the circular aperture of the hub carrier and lessen its grip? I'm about to tackle mine and it sounds a nightmare!!  2008 L322 Vogue 3.6 TDV8 in Java Black with parchment and Navy interior. 125000mls.

I used to be indecisive and have a split personality... but we are ok now...I think?

Probably not, there isn't a lot of room with the hub still on the car.

Holiday Chicken

How did you stop your railway sleepers sliding forwards when driving up onto them?