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Last edited by desertdude on 27th Dec 2016 11:15pm. Edited 1 time in total

1. You can't "bodge" the steering column lock, the solenoid is also a hall effect sensor and the immobiliser needs a signal from it, you need it repaired or replaced..

2. Sounds like it...

3. Where you are I'd change the lot...!!!

4. Lots of ways to sort that...

5. The motors tend to die, take a feed directly to them to check....

6. Didn't know they did an electric opener, thought they had gas struts... maybe an option out there..

7. Worth a try, sometimes the inside is as bad as the outside so it doesn't look much better...

8. Welcome to the mad house... good luck with it....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

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Last edited by desertdude on 27th Dec 2016 11:16pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hi

You can remove the pin in the lock, I've done it on mine, doesn't make any difference though it still won't start without the signal from the column... I did it to be able to get the ignition on to move it if the lock failed... but as I said it still won't start with the problem you have...

If you are into DIY'ing then remove the main rad and check the flow from it, read through my thread in the signature strip, you will see what the flow rate should be and how bad it was on a very newish looking radiator...

You could also remove the oil cooler and flush it through or if it's blocked (the water side) then kettle cleaner/descaler may work... also works good on the rad if it's sludged up... fill the system with just water, add the descaler and drive it about for a few hours, it's amasing what it will clean... make sure you rinse it out well and backflush the system removing heater hoses and let the water run for a while, the descaler will attack the alloy in the engine if any is left in..

6. They all do that when they are that age, apparently the boot seal gets compressed and doesn't lift the tailgate the fraction it needs to to stop the lock bouncing off itself... I just use the switch on the boot to open it and forget about the key...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

desertdude wrote:

Thanks for the reply, for number 1 I wasn;t talking about the locking pin in the column, as thats obviously stuck in the open position as even with the key off and out, the steering wheel does not lock, I was talking about the solenoid in the ignition barrel.

As for No 3: You have to understand, Im not a rich person by any means and I just emptied the bank buying the L322, and also 15 yrs of DIY'ing has taught me to start with the cheapest and simplest fix first and work your way up from there, plus like I said the rad doesn't look too old, a few years at the most.

6) No it doesn't have an electric tail gate opener, I was talking about the lock it self. Seems like it doesn't open fully, and you need to press the unlock key and pull at the same time for it to open, otherwise it clicks open but when you pull it, it only moves an inch or so and you can feel it catch on the latch. Will try lubing it up a bit, maybe that will work.

OK I'm not very fluent with the L322 just yet, so excuse my ignorance, Car starts and drives fine now ( with the fuse 18 trick ) AFAIK the hall sensor is in the steering column solenoid and the steering column lock is busted, so what ever it is doing its still sending the right the signals to the ignition barrel pin for it to disengage and release the key pin so it can start.

Right so far ?

So wheter the SC ECU sends the signal to the ignition barrel pin or not, with the pin not there in my mind it shouldn't make a difference or am I missing something ????

Put key in... immobiliser chip in key talks to immobiliser and allows the key to work... steering lock sends a signal to the steering column lock to unlock, combined solenoid lock and hall effect sensor moves and confirms to immobiliser that it is unlocked, also allows key to turn, immobiliser then tells the engine ECU that it is OK to start...

Miss anything in this lot and it won't start...

Remove the steering lock and you remove the sensor...

Remove the pin in the ignition switch and the immobiliser still won't let the car start...

What you are doing with fuse 18 is resetting the system every time, it then gets a signal telling it the steering lock is off, the correct key is in so I'll start, BUT the immobiliser then wants to receive a signal that it has locked when you remove the key, if it doesn't (and yours isn't) then it won't start the next time, switch off power and it starts all over again...

There is a lad on here who is very good with canbus and when he gets time is going to look at this and remove the steering lock part of the equation, hopefully, meanwhile I have sourced another steering column, stripped it and am looking at a repair for your issue which is either a small ring magnet has broken and is jamming the solenoid or it has seized up....

Mine works about 50% of the time now so I'll be on it soon...

I believe there is someone already offering a reconditioned column but they are a lot of money... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Unnecessary quote removed

Thanks for the detailed explanation, only reason I was asking was there is a LR indy who does something ( says knocks off the ignition pin ) takes a couple hours and viola car works fine after that, as I know someone who got it done a few years ago and hasn't had any problems yet, the cure although much much cheaper than a new column is still too rich for my, maintain LRs on a shoe string blood.

Could it be our GCC cars have a much lower security level than ROW, I know the P38s do, almost have no security compared to ROW

It's very easy to remove the pin if you want to try it, download RAVE from the WIKI, remove the ignition barrel and it's pretty obvious how to remove it....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Why does that sound like a sarcastic go ahead screw up your car, but I told you so.

^^^

I didn't read it like that. All Pete is saying is that removing the pin from the ignition barrel won't fix the problem you have with the steering column. Reckon if you can hang on and give Pete a chance to break down his spare steering column he may come up with a DIY fix  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

No sarcasm at all and you wont effect anything else, it means you can turn the ignition on when the SC lock prevents the key from moving but I don't think it will let the engine run, but, as you say, yours maybe different to mine and it may work....

I was just saying it's worth a go but don't hold your breath....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

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Last edited by desertdude on 27th Dec 2016 11:17pm. Edited 1 time in total

Not sure about the missfire, very difficult to diagnose at a distance...

Gearbox is getting too hot, you need to sort out the cooling to it...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

4)
If the valance is cracked at the securing clips then best just get a replacement
If the switches work on and off then i would say there is a brake in the wires

The main block of switches has one plug that goes into the left end ( so looking at the side of the seat ...to the left behind the trim)
There are about 10 wires in that block
The wires go through a plastic housing (which the valance clips onto) then under the seat.
Some of the wires then split off and connect to plugs coming from the seat back ( usually just the heated seat element). Then the rest make there way to the main yellow block under the seat which the main vehicle harness plugs into , to power everything.

The lumber is a seporate wire. this runs along the bottom of the valance past the main block and plugs into the switch.

I would take the valance off and the plastic housing and check the wires
.
You can take all the plastics off to expose the wire and then plug the main control block back in, try the switches and wiggle the wires to see if it make a diference

They will click, its just the way they are made and this has nothing to do with "trying to work"
John

7)
I suspect very find cutting compound.... or try "scratch ex" ( black bottle with red writing and i think a big red X)its great for cleaning the rear screens on the convertible

john