My 2003 is hard to start when the engine is warm, when it is cold it starts spot on, as soon as the engine is warm it takes ages to start. Anyone else had this problem?

Camshaft or crankshaft sensors can start to fail when hot, fuel pump can wear out and give lower pressure when hot, coils can break down...

In other words it could be one or more of a number of things, you need some diagnostics with live values to check out various things...  Pete

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What one would you recommend to buy

pete is right, you cant go wrong buying a diganostoic device, like the IID tool. and if you get the bluetooth one, it gives you some very impressive functions, on say you ipad or phone. or the non bluetooth one that uses the pixels display on the dash. i have a different one the 'allcomms' which i use with a laptop. i think people agree the iid tool is best.

but, having the same car as you, and having had a similar story starting etc. i would first be concerned with the fuel pump. it sometims doesnt spin up, and will not give any warning etc. you sometimes have the symptom, where you start the car, and it fires, and then cuts out, straight away, and then wont start again, as the remaining fuel pressure, in the fuel line, is now lost, and now the injectors have no pressure to let in fuel. so it spins over and over, is this your symptom, when hot? you could try thumping the tank from underneath, and if you think it (fuel pump) needs replacing, it is expensive, if you use a whole drop in assembly, or, you can fit a generic bmw pump, via ebay, to the fuel pump drop in assenmbly, for about £60 but, its a biggish job, and a bit tricky. theres a WIKI somewhere. -i dont think the fuel pump, will throw a code though, as it thinks its working.

knowing you have a fuelling issue, or an electrical issue is the way forward. with caution, using, a tiny squirt of easy start, can give you the clue you need. if, you remove the intake pipe, open the throttle body flap, with finger, give a 1/2 second squirt, replace, pipe, and without any pedal, see if you get a slight fire up. this way, you know you are getting a fuelling issue.

The car starts on the button from cold and when warm the engine turns over for ages then it starts. I had the codes read and this is what it showed

DTC 98: Tank vent solenoid might be an interesting one to explore.

Just a thought, but if the vent isn't operating as intended, might that build a partial vacuum in the fuel tank when the engine is running, which would slowly be relieved as air leaked back into the tank when stopped. It's just possible that this might be enough to prevent sufficient fuel flow for the engine to start. As the vacuum would only be created when the engine is running, it might only occur when the engine has recently been run for a significant period - i.e. Is hot.

The hypothesis should be fairly easy to test: next time it occurs, try releasing the fuel filler cap. If you're lucky, you might hear a slight hiss as the cap is released and air fills the tank. Alternatively, the simple act of releasing the cap might allow the engine to start. If so, then worth looking at ways of ensuring air can fill the tank as fuel is used - either by fixing the solenoid (or perhaps wiring) or bodging things by making sure the cap seal isn't as effective as it might be. The latter might be an MOT failure, though.

Other things already suggested might be more common and hence more likely and I don't have any experience of this engine. Just something that occurred to me.

Steve Current: 2010 Range Rover L322
Vogue SE, TDV8 3.6, Bournville
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Now gone: 2002 Range Rover L322
Vogue, TD6, Giverney Green

I have the same problem and have yet to find it.

Have you looked at this: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic39260.html

I've just checked mine and though it's not broken, two of the rubber connecting pipes (small pipe) were perished and may have been leaking. Not been able to test it out yet though. Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

Might be worth checking that it's not the LPG causing the problem before you blame your car, I've seen it happen on a few LPG cars where an injector starts to leak gas when the engine isn't running - this gives symptoms similar to "flooding" when restarting.
It's easy (and free) to check, isolate the LPG at the tank (close the valve or disconnect the solenoid) then run the car on gas until it stalls. Run it on petrol and try a few hot starts, if the problem goes away you've found you culprit, if not then at least you know it's not the LPG.

Lenb wrote:

I have the same problem and have yet to find it.

Have you looked at this: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic39260.html

I've just checked mine and though it's not broken, two of the rubber connecting pipes (small pipe) were perished and may have been leaking. Not been able to test it out yet though.

Well that didn't work  Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr

I found my warm starting problem was caused by the fuel filter

Matt Current
2012 Range Rover 5.0L SC Ultimate Edition
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Mattstevenson2005
I've already changed mine when fuel pump was replaced. It seems to be worse when the ambient temperature is higher. Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
Previous: 2000 P38 DHSE - 1995 P38 DT Man - 1990 3.9 SE Classic, 1980 3.5 Classic 2dr