Sorry i have started a new thread but this is more specific this time and not tacked on to the old one (seemed more relevant) apologies if this isn't the way to do things...

Anyway ill try not to give my life story, but last week i purchased a 4.4 lpg FFRR. It was sold in good working order needing a couple of bits. I took a mechanic with me, and he immediately noticed oil underneath and they said the rocker cover gaskets were leaking to which the mechanic said happens at this age so this didn't put me off.

Anyway everything else checked out so i bought it... turns out... they were lying...

So i mentioned it seemed to hold gears a bit on here which people said could be normal on ascents and descents. i drove 200 miles on the motorway an it performed flawlessly...

Then it got a nasty... on the way home on that same journey we got halfway no problems at all. We then hit a wall of traffic and crawled about 5mph for about 40mins... through the 40 mins it was getting more and more clunky into gear to the point that a couple of times when i stopped it nearly stalled.
We got going again and it seems ok but then i noticed it was revving high on a flat motorway so i chucked it into manual and it would not go higher than 3rd gear. Annoyingly i was going through a 5mile stretch of roadworks and there was no hard shoulder so i annoyed the whole planet and crawled along a 45-50 around 3000rpm until i got to hard should pulled over switched it off.

Did some googling and found people saying that the coolers can get blocked etc and overheat so leave for 20mins or for and try again. I did this and Voila we were back in business. I then got a good run all the way home was assume in the speed was keeping it cooler than a standstill. When i got near home it was down to <30mph and we got nasty gear changes etc again. I got home and let it cool down for 2 hours.

I then thought id try again - seemed ok for about 3 miles but then it felt like it dropped out of gear an was extra clunky so i drove to a lay-by pulled over and waited for the AA... who then said there was virtually no oil in the gearbox :-O they recovered me and now i don't know what to do.

Also my whole boot is covered in oil....

What are the chances that box can be salvaged by just doing filter and oil and fixing where the leak is?

Are these strong boxes or are the chances I'm looking at a new box?

So annoyed as i specifically looked for one where the box seems nice as money is a bit tight for the next month or two having just had a newborn... GRRRRRR

Thanks for reading and hope you can help!

Cheers
Dan

Sorry to hear you got screwed over on the box. On the positive side the box is the ZF and not the GM box of the TD6. As for any damage done due to running out of oil, no idea if the box is salvageable.

Try to get hold of RRPhil on here, who is our local gearbox guru or wait till some of the others pipe in with regards to boxes and how to deal with them where you are.

I would talk to a local and trusted gearbox specialist and discuss what the options are.

Is there any chance that you can get back to the seller with this issue ?? Consumer act etc. ???

Again sorry to hear, I wish I could be more helpful with my own gearbox issues history (ZF 6 speed in the 4.2 SC I owned in Nigeria) but that is a completely different case. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

I’m curious how the AA managed to determine that your transmission had virtually no oil in it, by the side of the road. The transmission only has a filler/level plug and a drain plug. Did they remove the drain plug? Only around half of the transmission’s total capacity of 9.9 litres can be removed in this way, the remainder being retained by the torque converter, clutch lines, cooler and valve block assembly.

I think it’s worth setting the fluid to its correct level, see how much fluid you actually have to add, and then report back on your transmission’s behaviour afterwards. Have you any idea where on the transmission the leak is coming from?

Only use Mobil ATF LT71141 fluid in your 5HP24 and ensure that the correct procedure is followed to set the level (vehicle level, engine running, move selector through each gear position, fluid temperature 40°C)

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Right - maybe I over reacted a little bit but based on the aa 'expert' opinion I was furious...

So I took it to an Indy who started it up out in sport reverse drive and then park with it running and then filled the box d managed to get just over 4 litres of oil in - so it had lost nearly half. Went for a drive and it was silky smooth better than when I picked it up got back and looked at it and there was a drip or too from the bell housing... Going to monitor it and then fix it up...

What causes the bell housing leak and is it an easy fix?

Could be the input/torque converter seal, which unfortunately means the transmission will have to come out to replace it. So it’s definitely transmission fluid that’s dripping out from the bellhousing, and not engine oil or coolant?

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We have of the same age and similar symptoms.
Started with oil leak which the dealer had fixed which allegedly was a rear gearbox oil seal. A place in reading did a gearbox rebuild then a few months later we had problems with reverse which they again fixed under warranty.
Then about a year later we had some vibration and rumbling which turned out to be the torque converter.
Took it to a gearbox specialist in westbury who ended up rebuilding the gearbox.
We did have an issue with the gearbox going into the overheat mode and it turned out that it was the bottom six rows of the main radiator collapsed which is where the gearbox oil cooler takeoff is, it's a known problem with them and I did somewhere find a range of vin numbers affected.
We had a new radiator fitted together with a new gearbox oil cooler, that was about 3 years ago and touch wood it's been perfect since.

I would get the radiator and gearbox oil cooler checked and replaced.

Do a search on the wiki for radiator and vin numbers.
Ours is on a 52 plate.

Good luck!

Hi all -

Ok drove about 20 miles today stop start traffic and it noticed by the end of my trip it was not coming out of 2nd gear it would just do 1,2 . Stopped the car for about 2mins it was ok again although a bit clunky. I will check the level in the week but there are no big puddles and the bell housing drip seems extremely slow.

What I will say is no dash warnings or anything to say the box is overheating?

Finally if fluid is still good would you do a fluid, filter, oil filter and rad change?

was this a private buy or from a trader/garage

Again,
Get the radiator checked out or replaced and also the Transmission Oil cooler.

This is the data from Land Rover.

Land Rover issued a Technical Service Bulletin in September 2007 for "High Engine Speeds and/or Transmission Shift Problems" which stated :

"The customer may experience high engine speeds and/or transmission shift problems after driving for 25 minutes or longer. There may also be the possibility of the transmission overheat message being displayed on the instrument cluster. High transmission fluid temperatures may be the cause of the problem"

In other words the transmission is selecting 'cooling strategy' mode as the bulk oil temperature has exceeded 140 deg. C.

The fault is caused by a partial blockage in the lower eight tubes of the (engine) radiator which supply coolant to the transmission oil cooler - supposedly caused by "depletion of the coolant corrosion inhibitor".

The bulletin states that it's not possible to clean out the partial blockage and that the radiator must be replaced.

LTB00080 - 15 Aug 2007

VIN Numbers 100042-175505

This is one of the forum threads

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic27376-15.html

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic2438.html

Hi all / Paul

I looked at that tsb and ordered a new rad this morning for delivery this afternoon. Annoyingly they sent the wrong one so the correct one is coming tomorrow anyway thought I'd better check I could remove the viscous fan with out the tool with some gentle persuasion and I could so got the cowling off and rad looked clear and no leaks - I then noted that the tsb in the link above had a test - how long it takes to drain 250 ml coolant from the drain tap while clamping the bottom hose. New rad takes 10seconds. I was clamping the bottom hose with pliers so may not have had 100% clamped but seemed it, I then unscrewed the drain tap until the tap came off and liquid was coming out of the tap hole as well as the drain and screw it back in half a turn, it took 56 seconds to drain 250ml . The tsb say 1 min 40 is a definite blockage with confirmed vehicle issues so would you think that could well be the issue ? Rad coming tomorrow.

On the gearbox I have just found an invoice from lr in 2012 and only 25k miles ago for a gearbox overhaul and oil service for £2795 - looks like they subcontracted to http://www.autogearbox.co.uk if anyone knows of them so hopefully when the rad comes I will be running

There is a thermostat that controls the flow of coolant through the gearbox oil cooler, they fail and the oil is then heated and not cooled (sometimes) well worth changing it and inspecting the cooler and the oil pipes to the gearbox, if they look older than 2012 when the box was done I would replace them as well...

Read the WIKI for the correct way to change and refill with oil and ONLY use Mobil LT 71141, NOTHING else will do no matter what anyone says, this oil is straw coloured and not cherry like most ATF fluid...

Then when it's all done and going nicely do yourself and the engine a favour and fit one of these....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80-C-Thermostat-...xyUrZSwcNg

Best mod you can do on an old FF IMHO...  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Hi Pete

I did t know that I topped it up with the red gulf oil that I was told is compatible. It ran nicely with it until hot are you saying I must change this for my diagnostics or am i ok with it until I fix my issue then dump it out and it the straw stuff in? I was planning on using that and changing every 30k with a filter rather than the long life stuff?

Also is that m60 thermostat a common retrofit? What are the main advantages? Will it cause an issue me being gas converted? Cheers

The proper oil has the correct friction modifiers and additives, it needs it because the torque convertor has a slip built in to smooth the gear changes (or something like that)

Compatible oil is just that, the oil is compatible but it doesn't have the additives...No long life option, there is only one oil...

I'd do an oil change with the correct stuff, you will only get just over half the oil out as it sits in the TC... this will dilute the wrong oil somewhat.... if the gearbox is then OK after sorting the heating issue then another couple of changes should get the rest out....

You can buy the oil in 20tlr drums on ebay, this will be enough to flush it through...

Land Rover made the M62 engine to run so stupidly hot for part throttle emissions, being that hot all the time reduces the life of every bit of rubber and plastic under the bonnet, they run much nicer at a cooler temp and everything lasts longer...

No problem with LPG.... mine is... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Ok great I'll do the rad today then aim to do oil next - if I need an oil cooler that would be a good time to do that possibly.

Does the m62tub44 run as how in the e39 540 and x5?