I’ve never done it from underneath a vehicle, only on a bench, but it certainly looks straightforward enough.

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Phil, Thanks for the info, I appreciate that. I have found a kit that I intend on ordering .
http://m.britpart.com/parts/repair-and-ser...22/da6085/

Where is the filter ? This is know sounds a stupid question , it doesn't mention a filter in the advert .

The filter is an integral part of the plastic sump pan. I’d encourage you to use a genuine IBS Filtran filter/sump pan and ZF LifeguardFluid 6 fluid, rather than cheap pattern parts, if your budget can stretch to it.

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Changed our connector sleeve whilst changing the filter and oil.
A bit awkward and fiddly to get to but doable.
Clean as best you can around the area before removing the old one. I used a aerosol brake cleaner that blasts the dirt away.
Drain oil and remove sump. Remove the connector. Pull the tab down as RRPhil has shown you.
Before fitting the new one, coat the seals in transmission fluid, then reinsert the new one. It can take some pushing in so I used a lever to gently push it in.
You will know when it is home as you can't push the tab in until the housing is in place.
Fit the new sump, fill with oil, plenty of instructions on the forum of how to do it.
Check for leaks.

Steve. 1968 Series IIA Pastel Green, nearly there project

Thanks Steve and Phil. I ordered O.E.M parts and ZF fluid cost slightly more . We're having a new driveway done starting Monday and the gearbox kit is only due Tuesday! The wife ain't going to be impressed if it spills everywhere.

For info. here’s the fluid level setting procedure :

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Thanks Phil.

Decided on Paddock with da6085g after speaking with a chap from paddock.

Just make sure you apply WD40 into the thread top and be careful not to snap any of the bolts off.

On the sport the cross member is in the way and the exhaust has to be removed. Fitting a metal sump pan and filter prevents you having to do this. I don't know if you have the same issue on yours... I would recommend you find out before starting...

Thanks Andy. I've had a look under mine (ffrr) and access looks fine. The parts I ordered arrived this morning . I will update in due course.

If you have complete clearance at the front of the gearbox you should be ok.

Ok. Ive drained the oil and just sat waiting for the drips to finish. Whilst im sat with time on my hands I'm working out my next move.

Sump off and sleeve out. Rebuild .

How the heck do we put fluid back it the box ? I know there is a refill plug but what's the best method?

Any help will be appreciated.

Also on this subject ... I have a kit that includes 7 ltrs of gearbox oil but only actually took out approximately 3 Ltrs ???

The filler plug is also the level plug so make sure that you follow the refill procedure that I posted above.

The dry capacity of the transmission is 9.5 litres and you would expect the torque converter and Mechatronic unit to retain quite a bit, but I’m surprised that you only got 3 litres out. Maybe it’s been leaking longer than you thought! It will be interesting to see how much you get back in.

Phil

I think this is based on the 'double flush' method.

You drain and refill, use all the gears to get it all circulated (maybe go for a short drive) and then do the same again, it's so that more percentage of the oil in the galleries is flushed through and drained in the second go.

Then the final refill is the one you keep in there. Discovery 4 HSE
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1982 Series 3 Hard Top

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