Sorry if this has been discussed before.

I'm preparing to do a transmission oil change. To keep costs down, I'll be doing it myself.

Couple of questions

1 - is the pan easily removable, or does the engine need to be jacked up similar to the D3

2 - why would I want a steel pan replacement

3 - is there really any benefits to having the transmission machine flushed, rather than the drain twice method. I get the fact that all oil is removed, but have heard this method may in fact cause debris to possibly be dislodged and cause damage. So is the land rover "approved" drain twice method not really that bad as suggested elsewhere on the forum.

Basically I'm just looking for any facts if possible as there is a lot of opinion on the subject and if the drain twice method is proven, then that's good enough for me (and fits my pocket better as I can DIY)

I can't give much advise but which year/engine do you have and how many Km has it done , all this will have some bearing on the advice to follow.

p,s no you don't have to jack the engine up / remove chassis cross member , access is good . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

No jacking because there's no chassis crossmember to get in the way.
Steel pan also replaces the filter and it both more robust and better at dissipating heat in the tranny fluid than a plastic one.
The double flush only gets about 60% of the fluid but a full machine flush gets 100%. If you're changing the pan & filter immediately after there's nothing to worry about in terms of stray debris.

I did the machine flush and never had any issues with stray debris and it did improve the gear changes quite a lot, especially as the new fluid bedded in. I think it's a sort of solvent and cleans up gum left behind with the old fluid, at least that's how it was explained to me. I got to the thinking that it was better to get 100% of the old fluid out and deal with any issues that might cause (none in my case) rather than just do the double flush which LR recommend. After all, would you change just 60% of your engine oil?

Hi

Sorry, it's a 3.6tdv8, 2007 with 160k kilometres

Are there equivalent oils available or is it only lifeguard 6 (aka she'll m1375.4)?

Mega flush does seem to be the best option but I'm happy to part refresh regularly

Regarding the plastic sump. Does it come off easy enough. I thought I'd read somewhere it needed to be broken off somehow??

Does anyone have a procedure?

Some of the bolts can be stuck in place and break. So better get a new set of bolts (some kits include the bolts) and gear for removing the broken bolts.

Start with anti-rust days before. Every day just spray the bolts from the top (gearbox side) as that is where they stick. Then on the day of the job, 30 mins before, spray again, 10 mins another spray and then pray and undo. So spray, spray, spray, pray (if you are in anyway religiously inclinded that is) and undo.

Well first drain the oilpan/filter unit of course .

Once the bolts are out, it is an easy job.

Filling can be done with the cheap pump up pesticide spray bottles. I left mine behind in Nigeria because they are so cheap to get (and I wasn't planning on doing more of that work). MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

cheezels wrote:

Hi

Sorry, it's a 3.6tdv8, 2007 with 160k kilometres

Are there equivalent oils available or is it only lifeguard 6 (aka she'll m1375.4)?

Mega flush does seem to be the best option but I'm happy to part refresh regularly

lifeguard 6 all the way , there are no recommended alternatives
Because Ford used the 6hp26 gearbox in the Falcon and Territory here and screwed up the cooling there is a lot of expertise on them available , you might be well advised to talk to an expert locally . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Yeah, trying to find a decent place is challenging.

Is it right that you have to break the old sump pan to remove it?

Also, I thought you had to be in drive (obviously not moving) to be able to fill with the correct amount??

Dint know about the sump pan , the place that did mine didn't say anything but my new one is steel with shiny stainless fastenings

you do have to cycle through the gears I believe and it must be up to temperature so most people use their iiD tool to read that .It's all in the Wiki though . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Can't see it in the wiki, hence all my questions.

Could only see td6 and 4.4 gearbox info.

Can you post the link for the 6 speed box please?

Assuming yours is the zf 6hp26x box then no you don't need to break the plastic sump to get it off. I recently did mine and replaced it with another plastic sump - I'd rather have an OE part than an aftermarket metal one. As for fluid, I used the Meyle stuff from advanced auto factors (site sponsor).