The IIDTool has an update for the Bluetooth module. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Thanks but I don't have a IIDTool.

Good reason to buy one then  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

As does the faultmate and sdd units. But if you want to upgrade it I'd say it's worth doing the 2010 and I've done both so know what I'm on about 👍 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Hi kp, sorry for hijacking the thread, is the d4/rrs module plug and play, cus I have the nokia bt module that can't be updated.
Thanks greg.

It isn't what most would call plug and play but if you can cut two wires and strip the plastic back from them then it's easily DIYable. I've done a few members before but with work being as it is at the minute I haven't got much spare time anymore.

There is a guide I think in the WIKI section on here  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Dijit wrote:

miggit wrote:

Clean the EGR valves or get them bypassed

Am not aware that you can bypass the EGR valves in a 3.6 or 4.4 TDV8. Can anyone put me right please?

What does the switching off the EGRs do to the FFRR and why do it?[/s]

The switching off stops the egr valves opening preventing exhaust gases being mixed with fresh air back into the engine - this being a method to minimise emissions by reburning exhaust gases. Problem being that exhaust fumes are dirty and clog the valves meaning they get stuck and stay open when they shouldn't.

^^ then they clog up all the inlet side of the engine, and I suspect that they cause the back pressure to climb to a level where the turbo says "sod this I'm off, BANG " That is purely speculation.... but I have heard more than once that turbo failure is due to blocked / malfunctioning EGR valves

Its either that or they save all the carbon up and dump it in to the engine in one go, taking out the turbo as it all goes As they say, I know nothing  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

So is it better to leave as is or get them mapped out or removed/blanked?

If you get them mapped out, they will stay shut, which will not dump a load of muck in to the engine and risk the turbos. I'm not totally up to date with it all as I have a different system on mine (TD6) but I have seen a lot of posts saying that the turbos and the EGR's have gone, but you don't see many where it's just the turbos.

I did read somewhere that the turbos were reliable and rarely fail on their own, and it was the EGR system that causes all the problems. I know that the TDV8 has a reputation for splitting the induction hoses, between the turbo and the engine, well the bit of the engine that the hoses connect to are the EGR valves And it equally has a reputation for eating the turbos.... but I recon that every failed turbo has got a blocked EGR valve behind it. The only other thing that could take out the turbo is a failed oil system and I haven't read anything about that  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

The real problem seems to be crank case ventilation entering after the EGR inlet. Oil vapour combines with soot in the exhaust gas to make a gooey mess. I'll try to post a pics from the WSM.

BAS advised me they don't do an EGR map out yet (even though on there website) for my tdv8 without a DPF.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Hi kp, thanks.
greg.