Occasionally when trying to move off slowly, such as driving into my garage or reversing in a confined space, the car does not start to move. If I gently increase the pressure in the throttle the car starts to move when the throttle is about half depressed, and then it suddenly shoots off like a scalded cat. The problem seems to happen more frequently when moving up a slope. Current car: 2012 FFRR Autobiography TDV8.
Previous: 2010 FFRR Vogue SE TDV8
Alpina B5
Porsche 911 Carrera S

Sounds like you've an internal hydraulic leak in the gearbox, or low fluid, does the gearbox play up going down the road as well or is it just low speed / revs ? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I only notice it when trying to manoeuvre slowly, with delicate throttle inputs. When pulling away during normal driving I use the throttle more aggressively and in those circumstances the problem does not arise. Current car: 2012 FFRR Autobiography TDV8.
Previous: 2010 FFRR Vogue SE TDV8
Alpina B5
Porsche 911 Carrera S

Guessing here as not familiar with your late model, but have you ruled out a sticking brake calliper? Plenty of posts on here regarding those, other than that, perhaps the fly by wire throttle potentiometer could be the culprit. Ie the electric throttle 'cable' it's not a piece of metal rod/wire now it's a pedal sensor, and an electric actuator on the engine.
If it were gearbox, surely the engine would sound like it's trying, but not actually moving. But is it the scenario, that little pedal movements, result in no engine rev rise? Or are you getting a little rev rise, and car being 'held' on the spot?

Has it got noticeably worse over time? Or just something you have noticed all of a sudden sir?

It has been an occasional problem since I had the car from new, September 2012. It has never occurred when the main dealers have looked at the problem, and they have no constructive suggestions to make. Current car: 2012 FFRR Autobiography TDV8.
Previous: 2010 FFRR Vogue SE TDV8
Alpina B5
Porsche 911 Carrera S

My own feeling is that it is the fly-by-wire, as the engine revs do not raise at all during the initial depression of the throttle pedal, only doing so when the car suddenly surges forward or backward depending which gear I am in. Current car: 2012 FFRR Autobiography TDV8.
Previous: 2010 FFRR Vogue SE TDV8
Alpina B5
Porsche 911 Carrera S

So we are now saying that the engine isn't raising the revs by much until you have reached half throttle, as opposed to the car isn't moving until the engine is over 2000 rpm. 2 completely different things there.......

If the engine is screaming and the car isn't moving it's the gearbox, most likely a hydraulic leak...

But if the engine does little of nothing until half throttle, it's the fly by wire throttle..... And as the car isn't throwing up a fault, I would have a look at the peddle end

johnboyairey points towards a sticky brake caliper, and while it would appear that the throttle pot is suspect, I would also look in to the brakes as the car should creep when in gear on tick over..... if yours ins't moving without any peddle input then I would think that there is a brake issue too  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Interesting, I have a similar problem with mine - once in every hundred times I apply my boot to the throttle, the engine won't respond. Not turbo lag, just no increase in revs. I can adapt to this by double-tapping the pedal, or raise the revs slightly and hold on the brake, but not ideal if I were to lend the car to someone

No doubt I will be corrected by someone who knows, but I imagine the pedal end of the fly-by-wire will be a 0 - 10 potentiometer, similar to a guitar pedal (!), and I hope this is a good guess. If so, it gives me an excuse to fit a set of alloy pedals ! Hope you get it fixed, I had put this on the " aroundtoit " list, but will investigate further asap.

Good luck,

Kenny The best 4.4 x far

Thank you, that confirms my suspicion that it is a fly by wire issue. Much obliged. Current car: 2012 FFRR Autobiography TDV8.
Previous: 2010 FFRR Vogue SE TDV8
Alpina B5
Porsche 911 Carrera S

Just another thought

Have you demonstrated the problem to the dealer, or have you just given them the car and they have tried it?

Only it might be down to the throttle linkage and the angle that you are pressing it as opposed to the dealer, and while I am not suggesting in any way that you operating the throttle incorrectly, you might be pressing it the correct way to get the fault..

I would suggest finding a large open space ( we don't want any ) and practice recreating the fault. When you are proficient in creating said fault, go to the dealer and YOU show him, there is obviously something wrong with the peddle, but if the dealer is having problems finding the sweet spot this could be a long drawn out issue.

So to recap.... perfect the fault... stick the dealer in the passenger seat... scare the crap out of them, when demonstrating launch control / drag racing mode.. and then get them to fix it  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thanks, coincidentally I am at the dealers today, getting a new rear light cluster, damaged by the aforementioned problem!! I will pass on all the good advice received through the Forum. Many thanks. Current car: 2012 FFRR Autobiography TDV8.
Previous: 2010 FFRR Vogue SE TDV8
Alpina B5
Porsche 911 Carrera S

The throttle pedal is a very simple and reliable potentiometer that talks to the engine ECU and tells it how fast you want to go... the ECU uses some fussy logic... it learns how you drive, it does this by monitoring lots of things..... steering input and speed of turning the wheel, speed of pressing the accelerator or brake, vehicle speed, etc etc... it then decides if your having a "driving Miss Daisy" time or a "drive it like you stole it" time...

When off roading it even knows you may get pedal bounce (driving into a hole which makes your foot bounce onto the pedal) and softens the throttle response... I have noticed that the vehicles response to throttle pedal input whilst in reverse is very different than when it's in drive...

There are lots of things within the system that can cause the symptoms you describe, it's not perfect and can be fooled, it can sometimes be over sensitive and think you are doing one thing when in fact you are intending something else...

So it could "just be one of those things" or there could be a fault with something, I would imagine any fault would throw up a fault code though... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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Fretless wrote:

Interesting, I have a similar problem with mine - once in every hundred times I apply my boot to the throttle, the engine won't respond.............................................

If L/R are using a linear pots, no wonder there are issues, I have yet to find an amp with sliding controls that doesn't crackle and pop after a few years  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Pete, surely it would only throw up a fault if the ECU sees the throttle moving and the engine does nothing.... But if it's the throttle pedal that's at fault, and the tracks are worn / damaged, the ECU will just see nothing and then FULL POWER as if you've stamped on the thing..... the only way that it would know if there was a fault would be if it was a tandem system, so that it had a comparison.... and I very much doubt that they have fitted that.

There is also another thing to bare in mind Buddy, we have BMW built cars.... I'm beginning to think that we have got the better deal..... recon that Ford did some major cost cutting when they finally took over.... Just look at the history of Land Rover..... at first everything was built to a cost..... then BMW got involved and everything was built to a standard..... then it all went Pete Tong again

And it's not just Land Rover, look at Roll Royce / Bentley at first every thing was built to the standard and then they split........ Rolls Royce kept the standard of quality sod the expense ...... Bentley ..... I'm not for one minute saying that they are bad, but I don't think that they are as good as they used to be  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!