You could do no worse, than to ring up any 4x4 vehicle breaker or dismantler, from say the web and auto trader. It doesn't matter where it's located. You can have it pallet couriered to you overnight for £65 .....some breakers give a three month garuantee. Many breakers don't list many of their parts. And some cars are at the position, of nearly cleared for dismantling, and you could be lucky. I know that these engines are expensive. I've seen many north of £1500 I wouldn't like to be paying much more than that, for an old car engine. -by that I mean an older registered car. It's not like it's 3 yrs old. Getting your car to a mechanic willing to do the job is another thing. You might want to ask around at a garage, if they are willing to fit a supplied engine. As they might not want to. In case it won't start! But as mentioned earlier, do some research, there are so called 'reconditioners' that think that if you spray the engine silver, then it's a recon engine. -in reality it can't be economically reconditioned. It can have the offending item replaced, like the crank, or a head, but to do a whole engine, like they might tell you, is a fortune. They might say, stripped inspected, reassembled. There have been many stories of these so called 'companies' doing this dodgy 'silver engine' swap service.
Have you had anyone do some tests at all on you old one? What sort of symptom caused this oil seals catastrophe? Are you talking bottom end? Or all coming down from the top, externally? What these engines have in their weak area, is water leaks, that cause the driver to overheat the engine. Maybe a head gasket goes....
Or, the timing chain guides break up, and an awful clattering ensues. What was your story to start with? An overheat? If you have a head gasket issue, you could have huge back pressure, pushing the oil seals out etc.
Have you lost your water?

Johnboyaeiry, this is the dilemma exactly. I can go to several breakers that have a lump in a scrap / accident damaged car.
Maybe even have one on a pallet. But absolutely no idea iof its a runner or a decent runner.
So, realisticaly I'm looking at a 11 year old engine, it has averaged 10k - 15k a year so already its done 110k - 150k miles before i fit it into mine.
If i buy a so called recon / refurb unit. Unless i actually whiteness all the new gaskets, bearing, pressure testing,skimming heads, new valves/springs/shimms/ valve guides seating, matched all the con rods to same position, etc etc

Not in the correct order but just assuming the following.
Then my engine needs to be accessed - front (bumper,radiators,LPG equip. lifted away), all removed now.
Sub frame removed, Engine and gearbox lifted out, gearbox parted, all the transmission drives removed, drain all fluids.
Strip all the ancillary equipment to transfer over to new unit.
Fit new unit, gearbox etc etc. New fan belts/manifold gaskets etc
Refill with oils, coolant - non water based, fuel system and LPG system refit and purge/bleed, refit all front end.
Then fire it up ……. hopefully.
So all that equates to about 20 hours ?
So if i say minimum man hours £2000 + vat for that lot.
Engine recon supplied quotes - from minimum £2250 + vat
Plus the fee until i get my engine back to them - £1200 + vat
Plus delivery charges - £100 min
Im guessing it will need the ECU to be set up for the engine ?
So I'm looking at nearly 6K including vat - if it all runs.
If it doesn't then who pays for the removal of engine and supply new - engine supplier obviously but try getting that down and in the meantime I'm still without transport. All negative but just planning the next month or so.


Original engine issue was a rattle like a cam belt tensioner loose on the drivers side. Read on here that the plastic ish guides splinter and can be seen in the sump pan.
Removed the oil filler cap and lots of oil vapour emitted so under pressure.
When he found that number 1 plug was full of oil sitting on top of piston i think he said its pressurised all the top and showed me the areas where the oil had blown out around the block and head gasket areas.
No overheating issues as i use a special coolant - non water based so no steam as such - boils at 140 degree.
Checked the bores with a scope and can see the liner is scored and rings smashed, guessing little ends gone and piston head damage.
Apparently these liners can't be rebored or oversize rings used. Upper limit already ?
thats it really.
just paying mates rates storage costs now as its in the back of the garage workshop until i decide what to do.
Maybe just sell it as a whole as is to a project person.

The 4.6 in the P38 can't be re-bored, but you can have the liner replaced, a friend of mine had a liner replaced on his. Firstly I would talk to an engine builder, someone who actually does the work themselves, to see if a new liner is possible. Then I'd be asking the question, do they strip engines or just machine them? If they are an engine builder, as opposed to a machine shop, then they should be able to do all the work to the engine. Whether they will remove the engine is a different question, but I'm sure that if they don't they'll know someone who will

I think that it cost my pal £250 have have the new liner put in his engine, but that was just supply and fit the liner, nothing else, on an already stripped engine. Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

From experience, I have had the chain guides fail, and I replaced them all and in situ. Yes, engine sounded dreadful. But there was no oil pressurisation. (I bought my Rangie with this problem, and had the gamble it could be fixed, and was a good deal!)
Many people find spark plug wells full of oil, from tired hardened rocker/camshaft covers, and the leaking inner seal creates this effect, the outer one creates oil weep onto manifolds and your driveway.
These engines in standard form do run hot. And many get issues again, with tired rubber seals, on the coolant side, and have numerous leaks to chase. You would be filling up periodically with your coolant etc. However, you say that you 'scoped the bores and found smashed rings! That sounds to me that you could have overcooked the engine. Sounds like the piston rings have somehow broken up, with the rings now not sealing, and then crankcase pressure has forced oil out etc. But you haven't noticed a hot engine, and I would have though a seal or hose would have thrown the towel in, and burst....rings can crack, or can glue up, and stop sealing, but you would have tons of smoke...from exhausts.
I can't see (myself) how the chain issue has caused this, unless, -if the chain was so loose the timing could become ever so slightly retarded, and cause engine to overheat, but codes would be showing everywhere.
More likely, , the chain has in fact, jumped a tooth, (being so slack) and then pistons have hit the valves, causing piston chamber swarf, and fouling the bores, and hence the crankcase pressure.

My thoughts only, and not a thorough diagnosis...

But it does sound terminal. It's time to lay a cut rose on the engine cover I think.

As for engine change, then yes, it adds up to a wallet bursting repair.
I was just making sure you were aware of after costs, and problems you may come accross, trying to get a guy to fit an engine, and the risks involved.
Many of these BMW era cars, suffer from terminal gearbox problems. The rebuild costs, also bursting the wallet. These are found for sale, and at least are running cars.
I can't offer you a what to do now solution, but all info here is good info. What I mean by that, is not necessarily every post on here, but any info from people's experience, similar story, disaster, and success.
people can make too hasty a decision, either way, without all the real facts. And opinions.

best option

gallon of petrol and a match ??


seriously bad position to be in - good luck with it

The p38 4.6 is a totally different (dinosaur) rover engine, ally block, and the steel liners are changable, you can often just pull them out by just pouring hot water through them. As this was the engines weak point. Look for slipping liners, and 'top hat liner ' repairs. We are talking here about an aluminium block bmw 4.4 engine. With coated bores. Ive never heard of oversized pistons, replacement liners, for this engine. (M62tub44) but these days there may well be an aftermarket service.
I have a spare engine in my garage, that had the chains go, it's in pieces, and I can't garuantee it's any good, but I'm keeping it for myself, incase mine throws the toys out. But I can put some pictures of the block up. Later.

Unless they are using a chrome liner, which is very old tech and short lived, there must be a liner of some description in the block.

Yes the P38 is a dinosaur of an engine, but the 4.6 has to have the old liner machined out and the new one pressed in, unfortunately they are not like the Renault / Volvo blocks, where you could lift the liners out and change them......... if only it were that simple.....

If the BMW M62 engine is disposable and not capable of being re-manufactured the cost of replacement would be lower from the manufacturers, like a bike engine, throw away and fit new. But I very much doubt that it would meet Euro Green recyclable standards....... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

they are a chemical liner

BUT I did find this...........

"Alusil bores can be re-honed if enough of the exposed silicon is left, but for badly scratched or worn bores fitting ductile iron liners is the only cost-effective way of restoring an alusil/nikasil block. For competition work no suitable forged pistons are available to suit the alusil/nikasil bore surfaces so most racers go straight for a liner arrangement.

My M60B40 block was fitted with Westwood ductile iron liners by Precision Engineering Services in Inverness and honed to the stock 89mm bore:"

This is the site that it came from http://bmwv8capri.yolasite.com/tuning-the-m60-m62.php Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

http://engineengineering.co.uk/start/recon...448s2:981/

Worth a look  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

There are some awful spelling inaccuracies on that professional site above...but sounds mostly factual, apart from the sport model rererences.

miggit wrote:

Yes the P38 is a dinosaur of an engine, but the 4.6 has to have the old liner machined out and the new one pressed in, unfortunately they are not like the Renault / Volvo blocks, where you could lift the liners out and change them......... if only it were that simple.........

johnboyaiery, wow i seem to have caused a liner debate ….

The cam chains are fine mate. I initially thought it was these due to the type of sound. Im more train engines than car stuff.
I was doing about 60 up the A5 leaving work after a bout 10 minutes the amber transmission light illuminated.So i pulled over and noticed a slight noise if the window was down - otherwise nothing wrong.
I got the torch out and had a quick look, no oil on floor just a rattle if i started the engine.
12 hour shift so wasn't going to stop for a picnik - its a farmers engine in a pretty body after all.
So drove steadily home. 5 miles or so. Noise no worse.
Next morning, ready for work, turned it over and sounded very rattly / noisy like cam chain.
Immediatel engine turned off, locked and taxi. Phoned ,mechanic. Tow truck. thats it really.

Just looking at getting rid now as it could be time for a change. Maybe save pennies and later treat.
Many thanks for all the replies and ideas. If i had a garage then i would do this over a few weeks spare time.
Will see what i can get for her now i think.

A farmers engine in a pretty body.. Eh?
Same engine that flies down autobahns in 5, 7, and I think 8 series BMWs.
Not many tractors with variable camshaft advance.

You said the amber transmission light. I think you meant the Amber engine light.
Also known as the engine MIL malfunction indicator lamp.

Strange symptoms that you describe... No overheat, no chronic clatter.
Is the engine still 'drivable' ? Did it smoke a lot?

-40 a day?

Sorry, now is not the time for humour, but I've had a wee drink.

miggit wrote:

http://engineengineering.co.uk/start/reconditioned-engines-rebuilt:298/rebuilt-land-rover-reconditioned-engines:347/recon-range-rover-44-v8-petrol-engine-448s2:981/

Worth a look

Mate I was only trying to help, don't shoot the messenger

I just knew that some where on the web I had, in the dim and distant past, read about machining liners to fit the BMW V8 engine, that's all. It is possible, but you would need to find a reputable engine builder to do the work, as it is a very skilled operation. As to the cost I have no idea, but I recon that it must be cheaper than a new engine, and a safer bet than a gamble on a S/H unit of unknown history. Plus, there is no faffing about changing engine numbers with DVLA, and the car remains 'numbers matching'  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!