They seem well related as tyres from most that ive spoke to about them but ive just got some wintracs on the way as I haven't found anything better yet when the weather comes in and I do like to play in the snow 😂

For the 6speed ZF you'd need to move to a tdv8 for one.

If I were you and wanted to keep the FF and not just repair it and move it on if get a stronger TC either from that BMW eBay guy or Oz, then the Sonax valve block and then the remapped ecu from Germany and together all that should last you a fair while changing the dex6 fluid every 18-24 months. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I never really understood by Land Rover/BMW went with the 5L40-E unit because the ZF 5HP24 is used in the BMW 730d (with the M57 engine) and even the twin-turbo 238bhp/500Nm Alpina D10. Maybe the GM box was cheaper?

Was it not cost and that they were already tied into getting the power train from BMW?
Hence why the td6 never got any of the updates the BMW units for for their own cars as ours were stuck as a late 90's/early 00's design... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Phil

Help! what am I to do?

I'm in talks with RoadBlaster in Melbourne, but that is looking to be an expensive option. They did hint that a manual override switch for the lock up would be of benefit to me, thoughts? maybe add a link so that the brake lights override the switch to avoid stalling? http://www.roadblastertorqueconverters.com...-converter
or would the "Eco tune" be a better option?

Will one of the Kevlar clutch units last longer? I almost feel guilty about buying one, as the chap is giving a 2 year warranty and I can kill a clutch is a year

And any thoughts on the gearbox flush? I was thinking of removing the return from the cooler to the box, at the box and adding new via the filler ( with the running in gear in between )

Or would there be a way of sticking a ZF unit from a X5 in ? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

what is expensive if you like the car spend and keep it id be looking at the aussie option tbh 1937 model y hot rod 1000bhp rover75 v8 vincert blackshadow plus several boats and other toyz ! ford f150 raptor Mercedes e class convertible jaguar f pace

Unfortunately the car is not just for liking, it's a business tool as well, and with out it I can't work
And while I'm looking for the least cost option, I do need it to be reliable, and you can have me sectioned later

I have towed a lot with different cars and trucks over the years and I can honestly say that the ffrr is the best compromise that I have come accorss. Yes a Landcruiser will be slightly more reliable, but they are not fool proof and cost an arm and leg to keep running, and they are very thirsty when towing (15 - 17 MPG ) And the gearbox on them is not without its problems, a long with suspension, steering and electrical.

The ffrr is cheaper to run on spares and does about 25% more to the gallon

The only real problem for the work that I'm asking it to do is the gearbox that BMW fobbed us off with, hopefully I can find a fix that works.......... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If you can do the work yourself here's a possible fix scenario....
1. Get a decent second hand box and while it's on it's way get the torque converter rebuilt under the 2year warranty and refit it all with dex6.

With the box that has come off give it a good flush. Then get the Sonax valve block fitted, and get the Oz TC ordered up and sent over.

Then when the enivtable happens with the used box and cheap rebuilt TC you can straight swap in the one you have ready to go and minimising your downtime and then allowing you some time to get the final solution bits together and built up ready to go 👍

The ecotune or gearbox remap ecu can go in at any point and you can always blag the sellers of the old gearbox to include it... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

These links might help...
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/4120-remanufactured-valve-body
Probably best sourced thru
http://www.jpat.co.uk/

And a stop gap of
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/251804621387
http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/182003841616
And rebuilt TC from
http://m.mackie-transmission.com/



Just my thoughts of the cheapest and quickest way to get it going and then sort it long term 👍 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

To be honest I don’t think there’s a lot wrong with the existing torque converter. I believe the LUC friction lining is woven graphite/carbon (rather than paper/resin) and would probably turn out to be pretty durable if it wasn’t for the valve body wear issues. The problem is that transmission remanufacturers address the symptoms and not the cause (it’s the cheapest method). The valve body wears due to the soft aluminium castings, the spools then leak and cross-talk. The leakage causes the LUC pressure to reduce causing it to slip more and eventually wear out. The remanufacturer then replaces the torque converter without addressing the valve body leakage issue and the whole process begins again - except quicker now as the valve body is ‘pre-worn’ - and this time the TC lasts 20-30k miles. All the remanufacturer cares about is that it’s outside the warranty period.

The issue lies with the valve body and either a new one or a ‘Sonnaxed’ one needs to be fitted at the same time as the remanufactured TC. Just my opinion, obviously.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

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Does the same thing apply with the 6-speed Phil ?

The 6-speed doesn't have the underlying valve block issues of the GM box.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Well I've just had the quote from Aus. and .......

I wont see any change out of £800 once customs have got their hands on it I'm now thinking that is a wee bit too much, so it's back to the drawing board There are too many other things that need looking at and only a limited repair fund, so I recon that I'll have to chance a UK one.

The next question is what to go for? Got a bit confusing when I asked Google which was better carbon or kevlar clutches. It threw up a lot of posts about carbon fiber verses kevlar, from what I could make out carbon was better than kevlar, and now I'm totally confused as what's standard and what's best  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Can't talk about gear boxes but as a boat builder I know my Carbon Fibre from my Kevlar aramid fibre and they are VERY different and Kevlar is far superior in abrasion resistance to Carbon . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

That's what I thought, but it was saying that carbon fiber was better at torque transfer, and that was the point were I got lost

Recon that it will be a dam good flush, Kevlar plated torque converter and the ECO tune ECU. The torque converter hasn't broken up, as it all still locks at 50 mph, just don't sound too cleaver between 30 and 50 on light throttle........ I recon I'd be down to the rivets  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I think I'm right in saying that Kevlar is stronger, while carbon fibre, I believe, has a higher friction coefficient, but I'm not an expert. Kevlar doesn't like heat IIRC, so I think I'd be inclined towards carbon.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver