Big thank you to you all .
The folk on this forum really are great .
Seller is trustworthy and says everything works . Price is reasonable . I might just have it .
Family want me to keep the bmw 760 so that affects the purchase of a good SC for now . May trade it for the right SC .
The bmw is a magnificent machine but a lot of the expensive electronic bits attached fail according to forums . Most folk have very few problems if any though . Low mileage so lots of years left in it .Lives in a garage and does not see much rain .
I realise the FFRR have problems but I have wanted to own one since I was very young . Mr Wilks was known to my grandfathers family .

Well, I may get lynched for this, but here it goes.

The TD6 Range Rover is a wonderful car and there are many good reasons to own and drive one. BUT they are high tech cars filled to the brim with BMW technology (mainly from the 7 series, I believe).

So, buying one to try and escape the dodgy tech in and old bimmer 7 is not a good idea. As I said, there are many OTHER good reasons. And the E38 7 series is, I think, the nicest looking of all the 7s. If I didn't have a FFRR, I could be happy with one of those beautiful, pre-Bangle cars.

06MY, 156k, original box/engine.

Big things its had in my custodianship are;
Waterpump
HP Fuel Pump & Injectors
Intank pump
Secondary pump
Discs and pads allround
New shoes
Replacement Air Compressor
New GPS antenna
Wiper Blades
Rear wiper motor
Mirror caps
Xenon bulb
Battery(110ah Varta)

TBH mainly routine stuff you'd expect on most vehicles at 10yr old/156k.
High Pressure pump and injectors were due to some cr@p BioD that i used but the other pumps are par for the course and fail on all FF at some point before they get to 10years old.
I service it every 5-6k as the oil and filters are so cheap.
Gearbox will get done at some point now we know we don't need to use the fancy fluid and that Dexron IV is more than upto the job and a lot cheaper.
Powersteering fluid and diffs/Xfer will be up soon as they were done when the car was sold. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

RR2008HSE wrote:

Well, I may get lynched for this, but here it goes.

The TD6 Range Rover is a wonderful car and there are many good reasons to own and drive one. BUT they are high tech cars filled to the brim with BMW technology (mainly from the 7 series, I believe).

So, buying one to try and escape the dodgy tech in and old bimmer 7 is not a good idea. As I said, there are many OTHER good reasons. And the E38 7 series is, I think, the nicest looking of all the 7s. If I didn't have a FFRR, I could be happy with one of those beautiful, pre-Bangle cars.

Don't listen to him, he's just sulking cos they're not allowed the the fantastic diesel versions in his neck of the world

But then he doesn't have to suffer our high petrol prices either

There is no such thing as a reliable car, they all need servicing and repairing, even Toyota's and Golf's have problems Some cars are cheaper to repair than others, but this is reflected in the quality of the car to start with........ The Range Rover is a very expensive car to buy, and this is reflected in the quality of the ride and finish...... but this also causes them to be more expensive to maintain. However, I would say that out of the 4 x 4's that are available on the market, the Range Rover L322 is one of the very best packages that you can get, and repair costs are lower than other makes. And I'm say this as an owner of a ffrr, who in the past has covered hundreds of thousands of miles in Landcruiser's, Landcruiser sir? No Thanks I'll keep my Rangie  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Oh, nearly forgot - my air suspension played up and I needed to replace the compressor in the boot - took a chance with the £25 rebuild kit and job done. The only thing I wish I had (or could afford) is a computer that can reset the error messages, as I had to wait 4 days until the mechanic could come out to me to reset it

All comes down to price really, how much is it up for?

miggit wrote:

That sort of mileage is getting in to second gearbox territory let alone first, I can't see any way that is the original box. The biggest problem is if you drive them softly, Miss Daisy, at 30-50 mph that is prime torque converter slip speed, and will cause it to wear out quicker than at say 65 The only way that could be an original box is if it was floored up to 60 and not dropped below, or kept below 30

If you can, drive a low mileage one before, or one that has a new box... it should be smooth and hard to detect gear changes, especially under soft acceleration, "waft mode". It will give you a better idea

The only sure fire way of knowing which gear your in is either exceed 55 mph and make sure that the revs are around 2000 or go in to sport manual mode..... then it will tell you which gear it is in........ there have been times in mine when it was showing 2700 rpm at 50 and I thought that it was in 4th, did the manual bit, to discover that it was in 5th with the TCC unlocked the joys of towing with a Range Rover  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!