1.5L is the quoted refill amount. When doing our SC last year, 1.5L came out and 1.5L went back in, no issues at all.

Are you sure the car is completely level? Even if the suspension is a bit low at the back it would do it.

Did it exactly same a last time. Back end was raised via jacks and axle stands!

Concerns now allayed:
Car had been driven briefly since the drain and refill yesterday. Both fill and drain plugs were bone dry on inspection today (not that I expected any leaks). I then removed the rear diff filler plug and once out, there was not one drop of oil streaming out of the hole, as there had been when I got to the last 0.1L of the refill yesterday. Re torqued the filler plug and now happy, job done well, all in accordance with manufacturer's spec (interestingly, when removing the fill plug today, the car was only in off road height with no axle stands or jacks being used and it was facing the other way round in our garage... I wonder if uneven level yesterday was in fact causing it all)

Also changed the Transfer Case fluid today. Such an easy to access and easy to do job. 1.4 came out and 1.5L of new TF0753 fluid went back in. The old fluid looked ok but when compared to the new fluid it was indeed a tad murkier and not as golden looking

Front diff oil to be changed next when chance allows. The manual says that when raised, the front wheels should be turned to ensure that all oil is given the chance to escape via the drain hole. How do you rotate the wheels when the car is only on 2 axle stands at the front end. Is it a case of chalking the rear wheels, leaving the car in neutral and ensuring there is ground clearance for both front wheels so you can then safely rotate them and free up all oil?

Thanks

I did my front and rear Diffs last week at 61k. The front wasn't too bad but the back stank awful and was full of glitter. Is this normal or is it a sign of excessive wear?
Gary

the only way to find out is to check it in a few months time...if its gone glittery then you might have a problem, if clear then its ok .. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

Adam, its not tremendously thick oil like you would be used to in a Defender! More like expensive engine oil consistency... So no real need to warm it too much pal...

Oil in a Defender?

................most of it leaks out!

Garyfax wrote:

I did my ... Diffs last week... the back stank awful and was full of glitter. Is this normal or is it a sign of excessive wear?

The purpose of a good magentic drain plug is that metal particles floating around can stick to it and can save on wear and tear that such particles might cause. You can buy so called stronger magnetic drain plugs from the likes of Opie Oils et al. I replaced the drain plugs with a new LR supplied one but others on the forum don't always bother replacing the plug.

The oil in the rear diff stinks and has done so on the two occasions I've done it. The first time, I changed the rear diff oil on our 4.2SC @ 88k miles/ 7 years old. It was a horrible, dark glossy brown colour. No water mixed in and no metal particles floating around, nor accumulated on the magentic drain plug. The second time was on our 4.4TDV8 @ 30k miles. It was almost the colour of new oil but a tad darker. No water mixed in there and no particles accumulated on the drain plug magnet, although there were some very fine/ very early signs of metal particles within the drained fluid.

People say that if the Diff has been affected by wear, symptoms can also include a metallic whine noise, which Ive never experienced.

Thanks PDL118. My diff runs very smooth and is quiet, I was just concerned about the glitter which was all the way through the oil. I wish I had taken a pic now to put it on here. I'm going to change it again in a few thousand mile to see how it looks. If it's still same I will strip it down and inspect the gears.

I commented yday on a long drive that the car seemed smoother after changing diff oils and transfer case fluid but probably in my imagination!

Presumably the L405 Diff oil needs to be changed at similar intervals as the L322?

Is the procedure the same/ anyone done it on the L405?

Our SDV6 build sheet says the car has 'Rear Axle Open Style Differential'

Thanks

Just reading this, can anyone recommend an Indy in the South East that can do diffs TC and trans fluids?
Craig you're a bit far for me otherwise I'd be over to you!

Greg Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

pld118 wrote:

Presumably the L405 Diff oil needs to be changed at similar intervals as the L322?

Is the procedure the same/ anyone done it on the L405?

Our SDV6 build sheet says the car has 'Rear Axle Open Style Differential'

Thanks

EmiratesA380, great info! I am contemplating doing this myself so great to get an idea of what's involved - and some excellent tips too.

What kind of tools would I need? You mentioned torque wrench. Anything else?

Greg Cheers, Greg
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2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Hey Greg

If you give me a day I will do a write up step by step of what you need to do 1. Transfer Box 2. Diff units

One point to note now - Is never work under neath a Rangie with only the suspension set to max - this is not safe as as you are aware the air suspension can lower to access height at any time ( I do not trust having the divers door left open - as this should disarm the suspension from lowering.

That said - I would suggest ( like I do ) - is purchasing 4 railway sleepers - I drive the car onto these - so its already a foot high - then I raise the whole car on the max suspension - that way you are safe under the car ( as long its the railway sleepers on on flat level ground.
The Rangie is easy to drive onto the railway sleepers in a straight line - just ensure the wheels are mid center on the railway sleepers. - try not to work under neath any car on your own - 2 is always best

A full write up will follow for your usage.

Hope you fly Emirates soon -





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