Hi, our 07 L322 (produced 2006) TDV8 is suffering from battery drainage.... I've noticed the following:
1) The HVAC fan in the console sucks air at all times; when driving, when the AC is turned off, after I've parked the car (alarm on or off - doesn't matter). I've places a small paper tissue of the size of a fingernail at the fan-inlet in the console, and the tissue is sucked in place even after 24 hours when the car has been parked.
2) After reading a lot of articles about this in the forums, I thought I would cure the problem by replacing the FSR with a new one. I've now done that - bought a Hella (FF006160) and replaced the original FSR. Same problem.
3) The car has just got a new battery (3'rd battery during the last years). The alternator was replaced 2 years ago.
4 If I pull the #12 fuse, the small AC fan stops.

I've measured the drainage to be around 0.6A - using a Unit-T 203 Clamp Multimeter. There are no direct indications from the IID Tool BT I've just bought pointing to a solution..

So - the question is: Do others with a L322 07 have sorted out how to shut down the HVAC unit (without having to pull the fuse each time one park the car for a few days)?

I believe some have two FSRs, the second serving the rear compartment, so it could be that? Another thing you could try is a different HVAC ecu/switch panel, you can get good used ones quite cheaply (I recently bought two when tracing a fault).

The rear ACs are controlled by a button on the front panel. In the two weeks we've had the car, we've rarely had the rear AC ON. Do you think that the front "AC sensor fan" would suck air if it had something with the rear AC's FSR? I'm not sure how these systems interconnect...

I had the same problem with my 2003, I took it to my local specialist who downloaded a software upgrade which solved the problem. My Motto: If you are going to have one, have a BIG one!

There was this "HVAC wiring harness" that some have installed, but I thought this was primarily for the pre 2006 models? I cannot find any store that has this harness anymore...

Do you think that a SW upgrade will fix this for a 2007 model also? And - why hasn't the dealer installed this upgrade as part of the ordinary service then? I guess I can't use the IID tool to install this HVAC SW upgrade, or?

This weekend I'll systematically try to find the fuse that is causing the most drainage when the car is parked. I will install a longer earth cable (between the battery and ground-connection) so that I can use theC lamp Multimeter without the field-noise from the other cables in the battery case.

However - having read you post, Kezbo:

kezbo1981 wrote:

I believe some have two FSRs, the second serving the rear compartment, so it could be that? Another thing you could try is a different HVAC ecu/switch panel, you can get good used ones quite cheaply (I recently bought two when tracing a fault).

Just a thought.... you do know that the car "stays awake" for about 16 mins after you switch it off, it also wakes up if you open a door etc when it is asleep...

Just didn't want you doing too much if it's just that.... You need to leave a door open, then leave it alone for 20mins, stick your head inside and see if the fan is still on...

When my battery failed it still read 12.4 volts and was borderline OK on a voltage drop test and an electrical discharge test, the FF didn't like it though.... new battery.... sorted...

Good luck hope you get it sorted... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks, Haylands - yes, I know that the car will be awake some time after I've locked it. The problem is that the fan is still going 2 hours, 10 hours and 24 hours after it's been parked. I can observe that through the window - I've placed a small piece of light paper tissue that gets sucked onto the fan inlet on the console. I've also stripped the bonnet sensor (that register when the bonnet is openend), so that I can measure the amps from the battery hours after the car have been locked.

Oh right, was just a random thought.... maybe it is the other FSR...

Before you start pulling fuses, take a picture of the fuse box, it is very easy to replace one wrong when you get to where they have left the odd one out.....

Good luck, hope you sort it.... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I'm considering trying the fix described in this post: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-r...-49-a.html - check post #5 in that thread:

Quote:

To fix the annoying battery drain issue:
Tools needed: fuse puller, test light, spade connector, crimp tool, piggy back fuse with red power tail (any auto parts store)
Step 1: Locate glove box fuse panel
Step 2: Identify fuse position #7 (should be a spare /open fuse)
Step 3: Identify fuse position #12 (this is listed as 'AC' on the fuse diagram)
Step 4: Test fuse position #7. It should have power only with KEY ON. If confirmed, continue to next steps.
Step 5: Insert your two fuses into the piggy back fuse holder, use the one form pso 12 and another.
Step 6: Insert piggy back holder into position #7
Step 7: Inseet the red lead with spade terminal into the top (north) postion in the #12 fuse holder
Step 8: Test the new set up. Rotate IGN to IGN ON. Test center stack controls. Roetate key to IGN OFF, you will notice that the center stack does not make those clicking, whining, whirrong noises when the key is off. IF all is silent then you have SOLVED you batter drain gremlin (as long as theres not another )
Step 9: Secure everthing and replace fuse cover door. The piggyback ins low profile so the cover will fit back on.

Trouble with that is, your not fixing the problem, your fixing the symptoms. Personally I'd want to get to the bottom of the problem... Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Yes, you're right Haylands, It doesn't seem right, but if the problem is a very odd behaviuor in either the BT/remote/control unit that causes the system not to go to sleep, and it is problematic to replace/fix that problem, I thought that this fix could be an easy way out... Better than having to pull a fuse eash time one park the car for a lo ger period of time.

I thought the BT problem only happened if you were using the phone when you turned the car off...

But yes if it is something like that then I suppose this is then a fix and not a work around....  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I tried this procedure yesterday, but I made a minor mistake: I connected the + from the spare piggy-back KEY ON to the + on fuse #12 (should of course connected this to the north part of fuse #12…) – nothing wrong happened other than the “Ignition key inserted” warning turned on. I therefore reconnected to the original set up – inserted the fuse #12 and removed the piggy-back one. It also struck me that the Pre-heater will most likely not work if the fuse #12 is disconnected.

I then had a short trip with the FFRR. And surprisingly, the effect of this disconnect/connect operation happened to be that the HVAC temperature sensor (small console vent) went to sleep 20-30 minutes after I’ve locked the car after this drive! The same happened after the next 3 short drives yesterday evening! This morning, however, the car was back to “normal” state again; drawing appr. 0.6A, HVAC temperature sensor vent constantly ON (I still use this small tissue to check if this vent is running and the HVAC system is active)…. It seems strange that the system behavior changes this way?

So now I will continue to look for the source of the problem, and try to mitigate that.

I've noticed something that might correlate with the strange behavior: If I open the hatch door after I’ve driven the car, the car finally goes to sleep. If I do not open the hatch door after I’ve turned off the ignition, just lock the car with the remote, it won’t shut down (the HVAC continues to be active). Anyone experienced this same behavior? L460 P550e AB SWB MY24
Sold: L322 TDV8 Vogue MY07
Mini Cooper S Convertible