HELP.
Front Passenger door electrics failure, pax door no longer central locks on FOB or dash switch. All other doors lock OK. PAx elec window does not work from either drivers switch or pax switch. All other windows work OK. Pax door mirror wont adjust (from drivers door switch). Pax door mirror wont fold at all and drivers folds in and then out immediately, will not stay folded when fold button activated once. Pax door puddle light OK.
Have removed both pax and drivers door cards and checked no obvious wire probs and removed, cleaned and replaced jack plugs. Verified power to pax door OK at large black connector to pax door window switch.
read here that low battery can cause issues so jumped another car to the RR to give full volts, no luck. removed fuses 7, 11 and 24, marked as controlling front windows etc, all good. wiggled all connections on BCU under pax seat, all good, no damp. Any other ideas gratefully received ! Recently fitted dedicated RR towbar electrics and all well after that installation which involved disconnecting battery. no probs with that. HMMMMM, bright ideas welcome !

I presume you have +12V on the Red/White cable at the Passenger door control module?
Also do you have an earth, Brown wire, at the Passenger door control module?
If yes to both questions it appears your passenger door control module has failed.
And Welcome.

If you need a passenger control module, I believe that's the bit with the the window switch on it, on the pass door, I have one I bought to try and fix my dead mirror, which it didn't! You might have a loose connector cable in the door jam, ie the rubber sheath from body to door carries the wires, and they have a pull off termination. Either in the door or the kick panel. If you want the module, it s£10 posted. PayPal?

Hi Martin
Thank you for your reply.
I put a voltmeter between the red/white wire and the brown (I assume pos and neg) and got 12+ volts so I assume that confirms power and earth ?
You suggest that the pax door control module is faulty. Is that the unit which has the pax window switch attached to the top of it ?
And thank you for the welcome, the advice and the rapid response !
All Best Jerry

Thanks John Boy
I will check wiring in door jamb as I havnt done that yet. I replaced seized door latch cable 10 days ago and may have tugged wiring.....if that doesn't work I will get back to you re control unit. Many Thanks for your help

HI on my 2003

I found that C2058 on the switch pack was the culprit. No physical signs of bad connection, but
when the door card comes off and you let the door card drop down, it tends to pull the loom(s) to the door card and the internals of the C2058. This connector has the p bus so you get some weird faults from mirror motors to windows

I used a zip tie round the switch pack and over the top of C2058 to hold it in tight and compress the internals of the connector

all my faults disappeared

Who's Martin?
Yes you seem to have 12V and earth ok but as johnboy says it's always possible you have a broken cable with the door closed.
The control module is the only item common to all your described faults, it's something to do with the module.

thanks again
Just had a look in door jamb rubber connector and the connector inside pillar and all looks fine. I will have a go at the door card off again to compress connectors and see if that helps. weekend job me thinks !

Sherlock Holmes hat on and a good worry later, head scratch, a mull and a long stare......... On reflection I did not remove the electrical connector clips on the door wiring loom while changing a broken door lock cable, that had the well known seized nipple problem, and I dropped the door card , not badly but it was stopped from falling by the loom connections. It MAY be that one of the wires (multiple) has been broken although no visible evidence of that. Is there a clever way to continuity check the door loom ? the connectors (c2508 etc Thanks espaceboy !) don't allow you to see which pin is dedicated to which wire. Is it practical to dismantle connectors to view inside for breaks? ( I have to replace the door card after every try to keep the car on the road, so getting to the connector again to see is difficult and impractical, maybe someone here has done that ? Failing that, Any good sources for a new loom ? My gut feel is that its a broken wire and not the passenger door control module I am a little nervous of second hand looms and switches as I may be jumping out of the frying pan into the fire!
Thank you for replies as its helped narrow down where the problem may be. I will post again to confirm progress for those with a similar issue.

I would get a loom from a scrap car and splice it in. Before that try working the switches while the door card is unclipped and apply thumb pressure to the back of the switch pack connector, give the loom a good wiggle and shake and see if you get intermittent operation. I still think that the wiring to the connectors will be ok, it will be the internal crimps on the switch connector
Ricky

Oh and try this on both doors especially drivers door switch pack. You mention that you have had booth front door cards off
P-bus signal goes to both driver and passenger switch packs

Many Many Thanks for your great advice and apologies for the delayed response but I was awaiting parts and a week's holiday intervened. I attacked the problem again this morning.
I bought a secondhand passenger side switch pack on ebay with the intention of fitting it in the event the wiggling option suggested didn't work. Wiggling made no difference and I fitted the replacement second hand switch pack. Difficult when your fingers are crossed !
The crossed fingers clearly had the desired effect ! All door electric functions restored to full working order. Great. Thank you again for your help it was invaluable

well done mate!