This is an interesting posting on Freelander 2 regarding the refinishing of alloy wheels by way of powder coating as opposed to painting.
Never seen this comment before but I think it would put me off powder coating if the need for refurbishment arose.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/post264123.html#264123

While alloys are generally spray painted, i think they're all given a powder coat primer (the grey stuff you see on the back of them) even when new.

Although it might raise the question how many times this could be done?

Powder coating looks poo as well, like overly thick paint. I would never consider it, only spray paint. Even some places heat cure paint though which isn't a good idea, normally the ones who turn it round in a day. Letting paint dry without accelerating the process with heat takes time, normally at least 48 hours before it's hard enough to refit the tyre.

Also everyone raves about powder coat on everything, but from what i've seen it's hard wearing when new, but as soon as there is a break in the coating and you get corrosion under it the stuff comes off in sheets. Unlike traditional paint where it blisters in places.

There are “pro’s & con’s" with both!

Exactly, but all you seem to hear about in the classic car community, is powder coat, powder coat, powder coat on everything.

Makes a change from my classic motorcycle days though. They were all nuts about stove enamel.

So I might just give mine a quick rub down and spray 'em Silver - or whatever colour I fancy come to that  Geoff

I had my mach 5 wheels powder coated in white when i ordered them, they cracked as soon as i did the wheel nuts up. I sent them back and he re did them, but still they cracked, then as they were steel after only a few moths they started to rust.

Not impressed.

Steve You remind me of a young me, not much younger mind, perhaps even a little older!

Well that quote is interesting but it doesn't apply to wheels fitted to the FF, none of them are forged, they are all cast wheels and are not head treated, even if they were the 200deg C that they are taken to is nowhere near the 300 - 400deg C it takes to anneal aluminium.

Paint or powder coat.... as with everything it is down to preparation, if aluminium or steel is powder coated without treating the surface and pre heating the part before coating then it will flake off, if you paint bare aluminium or steel without using an etch primer then it will flake off...

A good quality powder coat will look exactly the same as a well painted wheel, most refurb places put too much powder on to cover minor imperfections...

As with most things, you get what you pay for, cheap powder coating will last about as long as cheap painting...

Any powder coated or painted wheel should have the coating removed from the bolt mating surfaces and the center of the wheel before they are fitted, you can't torque them up with paint or powder coat under them... Pete
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2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
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Rubbish. The post above hits the nail on the head.

If they're powder coated by someone who works to quality and not price you won't have any problems.
And you must have the complete wheel coated, not just the fronts and an inch into the rim.


My wheels, powder coated. Still as good as the day they were done

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

as for the paint option, yes modern 2 pack paint has to be heat dried, to get the catalyst to finish. otherwise you get a soft dull finish.

clearcoat on cars has to be baked. you can see when it hasnt been baked or infra light cured.

i like paint. but i have seen a very nice looking chrome look powder coat. to old steel wheels. you really have to look twice. and only £55 a corner.

Steptoe
Would love to see a pic of those wheels on your motor