Ok. Took the plunge and just pulled the trim outwards as hard as I could. Came off with loud cracking noise but no broken clips

All I did was change the non-return valve but that was easy. Didn't work at first as coincidentally(?) the nozzles were blocked. after a lot of faffing about: taking off spoiler, removing wiper spline cover and cleaning jets; put it all back together again and after a lot of running back and forth to check the jets were pointing in the right direction, all is good

Thanks all for giving me the confidence to go ahead - especially the pics from RRUK  2012 5.0L S/C
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I had the same problem with mine found my rear wiper arm sticking in various positions, took motor apart very simple to dismantle no hidden surprises, found the white plastic cog was worn, this part is available on ebay, purchased the replacement cog fitted and re-assembled, the rear wiper works fine however, the problem is the cog must be slightly different to the motor gearing, as it will do a full wipe cycle but will not always return to the start position.

Anyone got ideas or fix for this one

Hi All,

Thanks for the how to on this one.

I was going to be lazy and get the garage to do this one, but it seemed straight forward enough so in the end I just ordered the new motor and had at it at lunchtime.

I put a piece of bubble wrap over the back section of the car roof to put the loose spoiler on and shut the ends in the rear doors to stop it flapping about too much (the bubble wrap not the spoiler).

Trim came off easily starting at one end and pulling straight (using the photos as a guide). It's been off before because one of the male plastic clips on the trim was bent over.

I was going to strip and re-seal the old motor as a spare or flog it as used / refurbed, but being a bit cack handed getting the wiper arm off, I managed to snap the plastic nipple off the end. Never mind, on the spares pile it goes.

It all came off and went back together easily and the most difficult part of the whole job was getting the trim back on again. I struggled for a while but in the end I got the 2 ends attached to the mating panels, before starting at one end to clip it back in and it fell on.

So 30 minutes spent in the car park has netted a decent saving and more importantly the pure satisfaction of a fully operational rear wash wipe system.


Cheers





Clive

Thank you very much for the helpful instructions with this job, very useful and lots of help. I only had a couple of isses and they were that the 12mm for the wiper was infact a 13mm and that once assembled for some mad reason the wiper caught the spoiler on its final sweep, however all sorted now and thanks again for the pictures and words.

Unnecessary quote removed

Very chuffed that this is still helping people out  Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Thanks RRUK

Made the job a whole lot easier following this thread.

David David

2012 Range Rover Westminster 4.4TDV8
2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 (LPG) (Not quite gone)
2021 Mazda CX-5
2003 Porsche Boxster

I just had the rear washer stop working and then water down the inside of the rear window.

Trim came of quite easily with a firm straight pull.

Looks like I was lucky as it was just the pipe that had come off, pushed back in place, blew some air through the jet to ensure all clear and all good !

Nice to get an easy fix when you are expecting the worse!

Followed the guidance here and found everything working.... it was merely blocked nozzles!
Good to do it though and see that everything wasn't corroded.

adara wrote:

The seal ring is inside the plastic piece here:

You have to remove the plastic part completely (it is thermally attached to the metal and inside you will find a 10x16x4 seal ring. After you replace the seal the plastic piece can be mounted easily back with 4 screws. It is the only critical area, where water under pressure must be contained.

Yay! More cheaper part crossovers and another fix.

A couple of pics to show what happens after the washer fluid has leaked into the gears and caused them to seize. The steel worm drive will still turn and strip the white plastic gear. Wiper still might move until it reaches the stripped section.

Yep mine was the same another legendary LR design. Done the plastic gear and mine still will not park so I reckon the little electronic PCB has proved water and electric don't mix. I rerouted my pipe and it now exits under the spoiler and does a reasonable job. TBH kind of like cleaning the wiper blade when it parks mid screen!

Well, I stripped my rear wiper motor down, got the oil seal washer from e-@@y. put it all back together and it works great. Thanks for posting this thread, it's saved me £200. I am well happy.👍👍👍

I need to remove my trim. What do folks mean by pulling it “straight” to remove?
All tips to prevent tab breakage welcomed  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Just pull directly towards you, away from the tailgate (given you are both in line)

The clips and fasteners are all roughly at 90 degrees to the tailgate, "straight" in .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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