miggit wrote:

Craig, sneeky, am I correct in assuming that the top spins, would have to lock it up and then drill with a cobalt or boron drill bit, OK I accept that they are not a 2 minute job

but look, behold the removal kit, with Range Rover adapter

http://www.dynomec.co.uk/locking-wheelnut-remover.html

Honestly, i have never seen one work on a Range Rover! Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying technology does not move on and that kit may well work! But, up until now we have had to have a specialist drill them using Boron steel drill bits etc! As yes, the top spins

Well they claim that the Range Rover adapter works and they show that spinny top wheel nut if I'm not mistaken, might be worth a call Craig, it could save you £'s. Why line someone else's pocket? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If your a member of a break down organasation (I know that the AA have a removal tool) they will come out and remove it for you. Free of charge.😊 Range rover td6 54 reg touch screen

You can hammer a slightly too small socket over the nut then undo it with a breaker bar (obviously destroys the socket, so only use a cheap or old one)

You can weld a nut or bolt to the locking nut, then undo it with a normal socket.

Im afraid you have not read through this thread properly sir Hammering sockets on does not work as these have a disc on top that spins (to stop you doing this!) hence earlier comments about drilling them!

I was wondering how long it would take you to see that Craig
Anyway it's not the top of Geoffs' nut that's the problem, the top spins fine, it's his bottom half that's worn away
I suspect that some plank has got a bit over enthusiastic with a windy gun, when the key was not lined up, basically the wheel nut part has been ground away  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Well I just got back from having my locking nut "unlocked" it took well over 1 1/2 hours, plus for me a 140 mile round trip. I just dropped the car off and went to the pub when I returned after 1 hour the guy was still at it and sweating profusely he had been working very hard. He had a few kind things to say (NOT) about the clown who had overtightened the thing in the first place but eventually got it off, So I am £45 lighter but all my nuts are tightened to the correct torque, unfortunately the locking nut was destroyed in the process but I had a standard nut provided by Dan which he fitted for me.

I reckoned Main Dealer two hours labour £200 + VAT -- he reckoned they would have no joy removing the nut, wheel then destroyed in the process, just another couple of hundred quid for a second hand one.

So I don't often recommend or endorse people on the forum but I have to say that Steve www.thewheelnutman.co.uk was both professional, determined and ultimately successful at getting my Locking Nut off - without damaging the wheel.  Geoff

hmmm think i may be giving Dan a call and ordering 4 standard wheel nuts. Mines are fine but not worth the risk as they sound a right pain in the to get off compared to standard ones.

Glad you got it sorted  Range Rover Vogue 2006 4.4 AJV8 | Buckingham Blue | Parchment Leather | Supercharged Grill+Side Vents | CA02 HEY ( NOT 02 PLATE )

I did say they were a little trying didn’t i

More like an utter



Glad you got it sorted Geoff

Craig,
You are a master of the understatement, it looked a serious PITA getting that nut off.

Full story on incremental costs:

I took SWMBO along, so we went to the pub, we then went to Meadowhall (Sheffield), we shopped (I looked - she bought), we then met daughter, we then had "tea" in TGI Fridays.

All in all a VERY expensive day but I am typing this very relieved (in more ways than one) that the offending nut is gone and if (god forbid) I do have a puncture, I now can sort it out at the roadside. Geoff

Now replace the other 3 with standard nuts Geoff & all will remain well sir

Well, on the wheel nut front anyhow

I've got all my locking wheel nuts in the car............ in the pocket that's made for the tow hook........ my car came without the Key, so I took it to see a friend, who's an Indy, and he removed them and then supplied me with 4 standard wheel nuts.
Locking wheel nuts only work when they are put on at the correct torque, by hand, and they are reasonably new and unworn.
As the motoring world has done away with mechanics and replaced them with spotty computer programmed technicians, the humble torque wrench has not caught up yet, and until such times as they invent a muppet proof automatic torque wrench, your better off with standard wheel nuts.
If your worried about your wheels going walkies, then I would suggest that you get a set of standard wheel nuts and fit them before the car leaves your sight, and then replace them with the locking ones when you get the car back. It's the only way that you can guarantee they are not over tightened.

Ps, If you work on cars for a living, and you know how a carburetor works and how to change a set of points, You are not a technician, you are a Mechanic and this was not aimed at you  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

What are points sir

Ahhhhhh, they make prizes

Well they ain't connected to a coil pack And they live in a distributor (and I don't mean your local drug dealer) And you will require a set of feeler gauges ( not a measurement of pervyness ) to set them up correctly  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!