Hi Guys, bought my first range rover. had it for 12 days now. All is going well, mostly. only 4 faults after cleaing the old ones, airbag, coolant sensor, side mirror and thermostat. iid tool is cool.

needs a new radiator i think, im getting symptons covered in the TSB radiator blockage, no faults though.
if i take it easy no problem, but if im driving spirited and stop starting the transmission will go into cool down mode after 25mins, also have a thermostat fault, so ill replace them both. its the original radiator so it wont hurt to put a new one in.

also im getting 18.6 l per 100km!!! what?! thats about 18mpg surely thats not right? open to suggestions, thinking injector clean and then the full service might help. booked in for a full service and gearbox oil/filter on the 7th.

It should be going in for a respray around friday the 27th and i nearly got everything i need to do the 2012 facelift, new tailights are being bought as soon as the guy on ebay emails me, are the aftermarket ones ok?

new badges, new letters ready to go, going to have to replace all the pillar covers. bought some covers off ebay they havnt arrived yet, but i now suspect they go over the existing ones? oops bad buy lol, relist.

i really like clean windows, and these windows are covered in acid rain, so getting the acid rain removed from the windows on monday, new tint on tuesday the old tint is purpleing and going bad, gutter rash fixed and the wheels repainted wednesday, though i was just speaking to the guy and he says he cant do the clour change, so do i leave them the same colour just restore them to new or paint them? i kind of do want them painted

exhaust tips are ugly they need to be changed, the interior needs some fixing, hoodlining trim, wood trim, leather clean and restore, airbag badges, peeling switches, audio upgrade after all the outside is done.

havent done much to photograph, pulled the side steps off and mudgaurds, going to put side bars on like this one



wheels going to be changed to this colour.

Heading in the right direction with that fella De-blinging is always a good idea .
As for 18lL per 100kl its a little bit high but in the ball park , I get 17 around town and 14 on long runs driving a Aussie pussy speeds  2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

17 mpg round town and 14 mpg on long run.....  If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

i get a service next month, im going to drive it hard and see how bad it gets.

got it back from the wheel shop. photos are in full midday sun and thats a bad time to photograph anything, they look perfect.







side photo with new tint, only went light like my inspiration above, and its high enough to be able to pick my nose in relative peace.



not resraying the whole car anymore. ive had to some mates who are experts and the sides will come up like glass with sand/cut and buff, if you dont know what your doing when it comes to rotary buffers, dont do it, its why my paint looks on the sides, the northern australian sun did the rest, its only $350 for a top level pro. booked in for that in may, panel shops here are full thanks to the summer hail storms, wrote off my good old merc, and did $17k in damage to my lexus, so just painting the rear bar, roof, bonnet and front bar and the 2011 front bar for when i fit it.

issues with the body. warning gore. images may offend.

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i debadged it, i have new badging and lettering, started getting it ready for the painter and for the paint correction, this bonus image shows how badly the clear has been damaged but it is only the top of the clear, its faded and scratched like this all down the sides. the clear is so damaged its lightening the colour tint of the paint. you can see on the corner of the A how dark the paint should be.

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Your drivers door is normal , on these cars the doors lock at about 15kph ( if its enabled ) but you manually unlock them with the central switch , it an anti-car jacking thing or you can pull the handle twice but this wears out the cable quicker .So that just brings us to the rear door and that sounds like a cable has come adrift but I have never had that problem so cant tell you what is needed [probably door card off] . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

thanks mate, i changed that setting, now it doesnt auto lock its great. i really like the way these cars drive. no wonder customer satisfaction is high even though reliability seems to be low. raced a v8 jeep and didnt win, not used to that!

dropped it off at the painters this morning. rear bar, tailgate, roof and bonnet are getting painted. and fill in the holes left from the mudguards and paint that panel. 2000grit rub down on the rest, and proper machine cut and buff.

still trying to get a 2010+ front bar on the cheap.

this was the poor girl that i got a lot of parts from, big hit on the front right and then rollover.

picked it up just now. looks awesome, photos are crap stupid samsung camera. needs waxing asap.

bought some redbournes for what i thought was cheap from some auction site. got to decide redbournes or knock off stormers?

im still trying to find a cheap 2010+ front bar, waiting for 2010+ tailights to arrive.

slowing getting there.

and i parked on a high street for one hour, and the asshole semi pictured behind me had left during that time and has just clipped the rear bar. scum. everywhere.

Keep the faith, you're getting there, its looking better all the time, Adriatic was an awesome colour, my Dad's was that shade, though he neglected his, when I prepped it for sale the paint looked so deep compared.

You have that guy's rego in your pictures I guess, track him down and make him pay! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Looks very nice, I prefer the top wheels....

When you change your rad you may like to fit one of these as well, the original thermostat makes the engine run at well over 100deg C, I fitted one last year with an 80deg stat (supplied with it) and it runs at around 84deg now, runs much nicer and doesn't wreck all the plastic under the bonnet.....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80-C-Thermostat-...27fd06da33 Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

yeah im fitting the redbournes. i like them. sold the stormers to a mate with a sport.

yeah i like this blue, looks awesome. should really pop with a wax.

i think i read your thread on that thermostat, i thought it was a good idea until i read a post by someone else saying BMW engineers designed it to run at 100 temp and they know what their doing. and i thought you know that made sense and bought the factory unit. but up until i read that post, i was with you. i still think cooler is better, but i just chickened out on the change. havnt fitted it yet, now that you have recommended it, im back thinking about it.

wash and wax this weekend, part by part upgrading the audio so im fitting new speakers in the front doors. focals 6.5 and boston 3 inches. the stock audio sux.

more pics from a different angle,

well im halfway through this facelift and some parts are easy and some are not. after taking the front bar off, i found spotlight connectors glued in the sockets, sensors falling out, the bar attached with cable ties and wiring just in a mess plus a nice dent in the crash bar. small one like it hit a tow bar, but dodgy repair work, no wonder it looked like crap.



reusing your existing gaurds, well you can cut the ends off, but then you need to weld the top bracket on or its all loose, and its aluminium welding and its thin. i was lucky i found some good old boys who were guns with the right welder, but two panel shops laughed and said nah mate. if anyone follows me on this, dont grind it flush, leave a 2-4mm lip so the welders can have a easier time. it will still finish flat.



no how to says anything about that. i think i would next time use new panels, i might even replace these ones one day.

the two headlights ive bought used, both had brackets missing. so cut off brackets of the old lights and glassed them on, not hard, but not easy and a PITA. all i can say is dremels are bloody awesome and so is the tool with the flat spade that cuts.

so ill be testing fitting again tonight and fabricating the outer lower brackets on each side.

wiring done and tested and it works so thats good. i do like wiring, so simple. rear lights arrived last week, put them on soon to.

front bar back next week, im getting the bottom of the old bar plastic welded on to the new top section, it will be 80%/20% new/old. have this facelift done for $2500 all up, its not going to be an autobiography, but it was never one, itll just look like a stock 2010 plate

no one answeres my fog light question i posted, so ill just delete the fog lights for now.

new tailights arrived.

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