First problem , car has a sticky caliper, ordered britpart from Dan , due in Monday .i know it's a false economy, but let me continue...

For those that don't know, symptom is like driving with a square road wheel, violent shuddering , plus obvious heavy smoke from wheel when stopped.

Onto today, needed to nip to the local shops, not too far, let's take the full fat, should be ok!

Got 100 metres from the house then abs light came on/ hdc. + air susp. inactive, then it felt as if I was towing a house, full revs, achieved approx 2mph! Oh feck, traffic behind, what looked like steam billowing from the back end. Could not accelerate! Felt like all brakes were locked on & no, the handbrake was definitely off!
Got it turned round& back in the drive, back & forwards seemed ok, then pressed the brake pedal to the floor, had the window down & heard a hissing noise from from o/s/r wheel + smoke pouring out, turns out it was brake fluid getting fired out!Think one of the flexi hoses has failed, along side everything else, think it's time to retire her from front line service! Obvious leak as now bonging check brake fluid too. Time to buy a shi77er for the next year or so & get something else, sometimes forget the car is 13 years old!

Seriously fed up now....

Lets hope you haven't completely emptied the master cylinder and ABS block  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

It's certainly not drivable to anywhere.
Option 1: fire it into local , call aa transport to garage

Option 2: strip down, wait for father in law to come back from Spain ! , talk me through how to diy all faults apart from fault clearing ! Utter joy !

Flexis are easy enough to replace

If you choose option 2 then find a way to clamp the broken pipe/flexy and refill the system with brake fluid... That way you may get some gravity feed going and stop any corrosion occurring whilst the system is potentially dry...

I have had a cheap hack for a good while now.
Bangernomics is he best way to motoring and good for th environment to 😄

I follow these simple rules,
£500 budget for car with near full MOT
Tax it and insure it and go.

If come the next MOT it requires more than £120 spending to get thru then chuck it to ebay and onto the next one.

Obviously I also factor in a £50 service during that year but even still it's less than what most new cars cost over the same term and its keep another car on the road for a year or more  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Flexis done, new caliper/discs& pads. Out for a test drive, got 20 metres, dsc light flashing , feels like abs pulsing between wheels. Need a blooming iid tool now + a new car , had enough !

Probably still air in the system. Suggest another round of bleeding and maybe another few afterwards. I remember reading somewhere that FFRR brake systems are notoriously hard to bleed once air gets in. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Brakes are quite simple and not that expensive really , don't get to peed off , if your back wheel got that hot theres a chance it's damaged the abs sensor .

And the wheel bearing and the hub

Have you flushed your braking circuit entirely as it sounds like it boiled the fluid which then expanded in the system and could have started locking the brakes on and then ruptured the weakest point in the system as the pressure got higher.

Normally the reservoir will allow some expansion and even overflow but only to a certain point. Also even boiled brake fluid is nastey stuff to car parts so I'd get in the area it's leaked out of with lods of washing up liquid and maybe some petrol to flush it all off as it just eats through plastic and rubbers and greases like anything specially if they warm up! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

So, back on the road, new bearing, sensor & reluctor wheel, faults cleared & me £420 lighter. Driving about today then another fecking bong & the same lights reappear on dash! Hope it's something simple, but if one reluctor wheel has gone, the rest can't be far behind . Bit of a catch 22, can't sell as is, not worth a great deal anyway, might be better parting it out ! Seems the lifespan of major parts is roughly 13 years !

No audio at all now, headunit all functioning ok, no sound. The clock started running really fast just before audio cut out. Had a poke about under the bonnet & the blooming negative cable wasn't tight, garage can't have done it up properly when it was in last week! That's where the warning lights were coming from, disco'd the battery overnight , no warning lights now but still no sound. Getting a couple of suspension arms done next week then time to look for a tdv8. WBAC value @ £3500! Ouch!

I had to buy the complete driveshaft to get the reluctor wheel, so if the garage have just changed the wheel itself from somewhere online, I'd say you had a good deal.....

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

From memory there is a multi plug in the rear passenger side compartment . I took this apart and sprayed contact cleaner in it. It resolved my stereo issue