Hi all

Have a cooling problem on a similar veh l322 TD6. It takes ages to warm up and moreover when going downhill the temp drops considerably

Any ideas where to look. Have change the Thermostat and Water pump as well as the Temp Sensor
Thanks/Greg

Would be interested to see if anyone knows where the changeover valve is located.
Thaks

Does sound like the thermostat, still....

Why did you change the thermostat in the first place, same problem?

Did you flush out the radiator while you had the chance?

What is the changeover valve you mention? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I still have the same problem - came back/noticed it whilst driving over the mountain passes. I haven't changed anything yet!. Saying that if i set the hvac temp to 0 then the engine temp needle stays constant, may be its linked i don't know.

Whilst fixing the over cooling problem on my TD6 a few years ago I found that their are a few thermostats on the TD6, either of which can cause over cooling if faulty, they are-

- Main engine thermostat
- EGR thermostat
- Oil cooler thermostat
(Could be more...)

In my instance the over cooling was caused by the oil cooler thermostat, this meant the car never got out of the blue on the temp gauge, but worse was the 19mpg as the car was on cold start all the time!

It takes a long time for my TD6 to get out from the blue region now during the winter time. In the summer/autumn the needle would stay at 12 o'clock. When it gets below 10 degrees celcius the needle hardly reaches 10 o'clock. No visible difference when driving uphill/downhill or car remaining stationary. The thermostat on the engine was changed less than a year ago by the previous owner. The FBH has not worked during my ownership. The EGR valve is stuck closed.

Do you have suggestions? Thermostat on the oil cooler or the EGR?

@GregoryT

The changeover valve is item 24 on the diagram below.

Click image to enlarge

Originally have changed the thermostat for the same problem. This is the second time I am changing the thermostat. The EGR valve is new. I suspect the Viscous fan but then again it should not drop to blue mark.

Thanks you for the diagram. I have been trying to locate this on the car but no success. It should be on the engine bulkhead but the pipe coming from the water pump goes directly into the FBH. I read on some articles that sometimes this valve is not fitter?? Andy idea on what the part number will be for this? The local RR dealer quoted Euro 350.00 for it.

Sorry I don't know the part numner.
It might be worth sending Dan at Duckworths your Vin number and asking him to check if your car is fitted with a changeover valve and if so the part number and price.
Have you considered removing the viscous fan and see if it has any effect on engine temperature?

Thanks
I will remove the Viscous fan and see if it makes a difference. Meantime, as i am new to this forum do you happen to have the email address of Dan? I still suspect the changeover valve(24) as if this remains open all the time we will have continues flow of the cold water back to the rad through the heater matrix.
Greg

danroberts@duckworthlandrover.co.uk

Just mention you are a member on here.

Thanks a lot
Greg

Hi all. I think we are nearly there. Change the EGR thermostat( I did not know that had one!!) and did part of the job. Then changed the fan viscous calpling and much better. The engine warms up quickly and maintains temp going down the hill. Will monitor further and keep you posted.

Tested it over the w/end coming down a mountain area driving fro 30 minutes. At the beginning it it maintained the temp but after a while guess what!! The temp gauge went back to blue area!!
Any more ideas as to where to look for??
Thanks
Greg