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bgennette

Member Since: 13 Jan 2013
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 74

Angel Eyes DRL DIY step-by-step

Fitting 'Angel Eyes' Daylight Running Lights on Range Rover L322 2003 - 2005, Bi Xenon type

1 Headlight Removal
* Open bonnet - disconnect struts, raise to 'service position' and move safety locks onto hinges.

Click image to enlarge

* Remove grill - 3 x m5 bolts (phillips also) (overlaps head lights) - unclip temperature sensor.
* Remove 4 x large philips screws that hold the top of the plastic bumper in position, remove m6 screws from each end of bumper in wheel arches.
* Remove headlight wiper blades - pull hinge cover off then undo m6 nut. Wriggle to break grime seal, pull off.
* Side lights - undo large 3 bladed plastic wing nut halfway down inside, slide whole unit forward on 2 x guide/clips
* Undo 2 x wiring connectors. The connectors are different colours so there should be no confusion when reinstalling

. You can now see the lower, outer screws for the main units.
* Main light unit - undo lower 2 x m5 screws, then upper 2 x m6 bolts. Pull the plastic bumper end forward, cover with protective cloth, then press down with a foot to create clearance while sliding the unit forward on 2 x guide/clips.
* Undo 2 x wiring connectors.

2 Headlight Opening
Headlights outer glass is held on with 9 spring clips. Use a flat blade screw driver in the 'T' grooves to lever them off (plastic side, NOT glass side!).
To aid in refitting squeeze the glass against the rubber gasket close to each clip as it is pushed into place.

3 Fitting 'Angel Eyes' Daylight Running Lights
The dipped beam (outer, smaller light) is held in a conical recepticle that has an outside diameter of 100mm at its base and ~90mm where the lens sits. There is a raised ring around the base with an outside diameter of about 115mm. A 120mm ring light (with an inside diameter of about 110mm) may be put around this cone and glued into place on the ring with silicon. Wires may be led upwards through the large vent at the top of the reflector, then down to the rear access panel for the lamps.

4 Wiring
Inside the engine compartment is a large plastic box (the Environment Compartment or E-Box) that has a thick red wire (from the battery) going to a relay then out on Red/White stripe wires to the Fuel Pump and the Engine Computer Management Unit. The relay is switched by a monitoring part of the Engine Management Unit when the key is turned to the Ignition position.

Click image to enlarge

Different Range Rover models have different numbers of these Red/White stripe wires, see diagram.
These Red/White wires are the ideal tap for the Angel Eyes ignition switched, voltage sensitive, constant current drivers.
Open the box by removing the 10 screws and lifting lid straight up.
Use a fuse and cable ties to keep it safe, feed through an existing hole - do not compromise the water resistance.
(Normal fuse holders should go inside the E Box, water resistant ones may be fitted externally).
I soldered my new tap onto X 2050 (under the yellow cap) on my TD6; V8s may need to access fuse 2.

5 Replace lights -
Reverse the Removal steps.
Take care to ensure that the units engage properly with their guide/clips, particularly the #!$%# lower ones.

6 Extras -
While the headlight glass covers are off the insides should be cleaned, but avoid putting finger prints on the reflectors.
Remove all bulbs and inspect for corroded bases, fogged glass envelopes or burned out filaments.
Replace all damaged seals.

7 Tools -
m5 socket (8mm across flats)
m6 socket (10mm across flats)
screw driver, phillips
screw driver, flat ~5mm
T30 torx driver
[Soldering iron]

8 Parts -
LED rings, similar to - 1 Pair 120mm White 144LED COB Car Halo Ring Light Angel Eyes Headlight 12-24V, with 2 constant current drivers (I got mine from 48express on ebay)
Constant current LED driver(s) (if not included with LED rings)
Silicon (waterproof clear is best)
Tape - white and coloured + indelible pen
wire - thin, insulated, figure-8
Fuse holder and 5A fuse
Solder
Insulation tape
[Relay and Diodes]
[Latex gloves to avoid contacting silicon]

9 Problems and suggestions -
* Zenon lights store a lot of energy that takes ~5 minutes to leak away after switch off, be absolutely sure they have been off for a while before removing.
* The Headlight Reflector surface is very sensistive to dirt and fingerprints. Clean only with air or alcohol spray (eg Glen 20), but DO NOT wipe with cloth or tissue.
* Main Light Unit bottom clips are BELOW the top of the front bumper. The plastic bumper must be moved a little forward and pressed down to ensure engagement. Best done with 2 people.
* Side lights body and clear outer cover are melted togther in the factory, however after 5-6 years they can be too easily pulled apart as the body plastic degrades, so be careful. Can be re-joined with silicon.

* Label each connector before undoing with durable labels that will be readable next time. . . Also label the wires leading to the new Daylight Running Lights.
* Relocate the #!$%# temperature sensor to the fan housing with a small cable tie.
* Change the blades on the headlight cleaners while they are off.
* If your local legislation requires the DRLs to turn off whenever Headlights are ON (most do) you can run the DRLs power wire through a normally closed contact in a change-over type relay controlled by taps into the headlight circuits (diode separated).

Note - The E Box is not water proof, it relies on having its inlets and outlets pointed downwards and internal air pressure preventing water rising upwards through them. This allows an internal fan to circulate cooling air in normal use. Do NOT drill holes in the E Box that will release the protective air pressure ! If you do then seal them well with silicon.

Note - Many 'Angel Eyes' are provided with voltage sensitive, constant current drivers (sealed in little containers). These only switch on when the voltage available to them is at or above 13V. When a car battery is at rest it should be 12.6V; during starting the voltage may dip as low as 9V; after starting the alternator will bring the system voltage up to 13.6V or more, therefore the Angel Eyes will only operate while the running alternator is holding the system voltage above 13V. However the switching circuit will draw about 1mA all the time, so it is advisable to connect to a circuit that is only on when the engine should be running.

Should only take ~1 hour.
bye

Last edited by bgennette on 3rd Feb 2017 6:15am. Edited 3 times in total

13th Feb 2015 12:12am

Cam-Tech-Craig

Member Since: 03 Aug 2011
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 16294

2015 Range Rover SVAutobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

Very nice

13th Feb 2015 3:56am

Alistair

Member Since: 11 Feb 2011
Location: Peterborough / Bordeaux / Andorra
Posts: 7941

2013 Range Rover Vogue SE SDV8 Santorini Black

Top job - well done

13th Feb 2015 6:23am

JarrahJack

Member Since: 27 Apr 2012
Location: Perth
Posts: 23

Would this be only applicable to Xenon headlights? 2003 TD6 HSE, Zambezi Silver, Navy Trim.

13th Feb 2015 7:57am

horse86

Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 863

2014 Range Rover Autobiography 5.0 SC V8 Causeway Grey

now if only the newer 322 lights were able to be taken apart as easily. Would be nice if there were dot LED rings like the the ones the facelifted lights have as opposed to the solid angel eye.

13th Feb 2015 3:44pm

rej

Member Since: 06 Jan 2014
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 496

2006 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Zambezi Silver

I have these on mine. Purchased done but they will also convert your own when I asked. I have mine wired via a connector as when I tried to connect to the ebox loads of faults flashed up on the dash hence why I used the pre-wired solution.

Lights are not too bright and I keep turned on all the time. No problem when it went through the MOT and had them fitted about a year and no police problem. Only problem and may not be connected is that the bluetooth phone does not work.

There is a difference between knowing your sh!t and knowing you're sh!t

2005 Registered 2006 MY 4.4 AJV8 Range Rover Vogue

16th Feb 2015 4:37pm

horse86

Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 863

^^^^very nice. I would be interested in the details on what you used/how you did that? Do you have a thread posted on it that shows what product you used, how you opened/sealed the newer MIII lights, wired them etc?

16th Feb 2015 5:17pm

rej

Member Since: 06 Jan 2014
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 496

This is what I used/purchased. Used a cheap loom from ebay to connect

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-L322...20f307ce25 There is a difference between knowing your sh!t and knowing you're sh!t

2005 Registered 2006 MY 4.4 AJV8 Range Rover Vogue

19th Feb 2015 12:35pm

horse86

Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 863

^^ Rej....

nice!

so you actually buy the whole headlight from the guy after he opens them up and does the LED work? Does he guarantee no leaks or condensation?

Are they new lamps?

Does he offer a core refund?

How bright are the LED's? Are they as bright as the facelifted headlights?

Are they OEM in color or do they look/have an aftermarket blue look?

19th Feb 2015 3:55pm

alanm_3

Member Since: 19 Feb 2011
Location: my House, unless I’m not at home, in which case I’m somewhere else.
Posts: 6730

2017 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

Nice reg plate!

Do they only do Castlemaine 5X in Oz then? Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

19th Feb 2015 3:58pm

rej

Member Since: 06 Jan 2014
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 496

I think the lights may be used but I not 100% sure. The set I bought didn't have the extra lights which I only noticed when I got the lights so they then used my original lights to make me a set with the cornering lights and I gave the first set I bought to a colleague who had a FF without the cornering lights as he had a crack in one of his original lenses. Biggest joke is I think my lights had been changed at some point as despite the light having some signs of melting round the cornering light I have never seen them on or even noticed the lights move and get no error on the dash so guess I could have saved a few hundred and just used the first set supplied.

If you can be without your own lights for a week I think they will use your own but you would need too check with them, same with regards to warranty, refund etc... I have had mime fitted for over a year and despite the originals I sent having condensation (part of the reason I was originally happy to buy replacements) I have not noticed any condensation in the units which is more than can said for the new OEM rear lights i purchased at the same time.

I will take a couple of photos tonight and in the morning so you can judge on colour / brightness etc... As said above I run with them on all the time with main beams as additional DRL and also with normal headlights and no complaints from anyone or problems with MOT etc.. There is a difference between knowing your sh!t and knowing you're sh!t

2005 Registered 2006 MY 4.4 AJV8 Range Rover Vogue

19th Feb 2015 4:31pm

horse86

Member Since: 09 Dec 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 863

thank you for that reply. looking forward to the additional pics.

19th Feb 2015 4:46pm

rej

Member Since: 06 Jan 2014
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 496

Photos in the dark

Click image to enlarge

There is a difference between knowing your sh!t and knowing you're sh!t

2005 Registered 2006 MY 4.4 AJV8 Range Rover Vogue

23rd Feb 2015 3:41pm

rej

Member Since: 06 Jan 2014
Location: Stevenage
Posts: 496

Daytime photos

Click image to enlarge

There is a difference between knowing your sh!t and knowing you're sh!t

2005 Registered 2006 MY 4.4 AJV8 Range Rover Vogue

23rd Feb 2015 3:42pm

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