I know this has probably been talked to death, but what's the biggest/best brake upgrade I can do to my 2003 TD6 with standard 18" rims??

Dave 1993 YZF 750 SP

might be a really stupid question, but why?

the std brakes are good enough for a TD6 imhe - even when towing a 4 ton trailer. Are you using good OEM pads and discs because this does make a difference?

Good point - I purchased this second hand, so have no real idea if the pads/discs are OEM parts or something else.

Dave 1993 YZF 750 SP

Dave, we are running 7 RR's all with std brakes, and they are all fantastic - no problems, but they all have either LR or OEM brakes on. And these vehicles are used as LR intended.

RR's are well known for their good brakes - even the Classics - a bit like Citroen used to be.....

I'd change the pads at least for good oem ones and then change the discs when needed or now if your keen. Despite what anybody says, the OEM discs are better than any cheap aftermarket rubbish - its all down to the softness / temper and the steel mix.

You don't want too hard a disc or the pads have nothing to bite into, which cuts back on brake efficiency.
Hence its accepted practice that you usually get 2 sets of pads for every set of discs, as the discs are usually goosed and in-efficient once worn.

its got to be a set of brembos but you will need 20" rims to clear them... V8 facelift Range Rover Autobiography 22" wheels.
1976 Harley Davidson Iron Head Sportster

You could go for a set of EBC Pads & Discs, they have "Improved Bite" but don't last as long. This is always the trade off though.

I found that brake fade was a bit of a problem as we have a couple long hills that I like to fly down, but then need to slow significantly by the end. So I upgraded to Vented Drilled & Grooved on the front and Drilled & Groved on the back. They were also cheaper than the genuine ones.

Range Rover Brakes L322 by d86cfv, on Flickr 

I'm not aware of any brake upgrade that can be done with 18" wheels. I think daveo is probably right - you'd need to go to larger wheels to upgrade the brakes.

Been through this discussion so many time on various forums, btw (including forums for track cars - another hobby ): the type of pad you use may affect the feel, but 'high friction' etc is BS. If you have enough friction to lock the wheels then having more won't help. If they are actually pads with higher friction (and not just loaded with bogus advertising) then the pedal effort may be reduced and the feel will be different - you won't be stopping any quicker, tho.

Brakes convert kinetic energy to heat energy. The problem encountered with brakes is that they can't get rid of the heat fast enough under heavy use and you end up with brake fade. That is why racing cars that weigh 1/3 of a FFRR have bigger brakes than the RR - or why the RRSC has bigger brakes than a standard RR, etc, etc.

A good quality pad will continue to operate at a higher temperature than a very cheap pad will - so without increasing the brake size you are in effect increasing the effectiveness of the brakes - but with modern pads probably the biggest difference between less expensive and more expensive is in longevity.

I've seen people get into cars with blinged up brakes, accelerate to 50mph, slam on the brakes, and then rant on and on about how well the car stopped. It would have done that just as well with the very cheapest of brakes, tho. Do that 5 times in a row w/o pause - that's where the difference is felt.

I drive my TD6 quite hard at times. I spend quite a bit of time on the German autobahns and - traffic permitting - get my little diesel to an indicated 200kph+. Braking very hard when a truck pulls out is not that seldom; I have felt brake fade more than once. But even on the cross country roads that i drive daily where I get up to 130-140kph between roundabouts and brake heavily into the next, brake fade is not a problem.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and needs to be changed every so often. Make sure your fluid is OK, get decent quality brake components and you'll be fine even if you play Lewis Hamilton on your way to work.

And if you'd like to invest loads in cryogenically treated, cross-slotted, super high carbonized friction, over the top brake components - do it. Just be aware that you're paying more for bling that increased braking.

(sorry - pet rant topic ) 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

My brakes are fine at the moment on my TD6 but what do people here recommend i change them to when the time comes? stick with LR disc and pads or opt for another make and advice which other makes you have used.

Thanks

I'd stick with genuine LR or OEM replacements, my experience is they are more than adequate if maintained and properly set up as LR intended. i.e. pads changed when required, discs changed when required and brake fluid changed.................... when required