So I had a new genuine dealer supplied windscreen fitted last week by Auto Windscreens. It all went well, fitted fine, no whistles or leaks or damage.

However, this morning I had cause to use the front heated screen and it didn't do anything. Outside temperature was 3 degrees and the mist inside the screen wasn't cleared by the screen itself, the blowers did that.

Now I'm second guessing myself, and wonder if the heated elements only clear the outside of the screen??? In frostier conditions???

Anyone?

I'd rather not have to have another screen fitted, but could they have screwed it up? The heated connectors are under the A pillars, surely just plug n play? I could remove the A pillars and check they've connected it, but any hints chaps? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

I end up with a thick (about 6") band on the left where the elements are obviously not working. Doesn't bother me too much as it's sort of mid-left, but I'd also love to know if there is a quick n easy fix.

thats better than the entire screen not working! Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

I feel your pain nonetheless

Maybe they only work with the current flowing one way thru them and if the connectors are he same size they could have mixed them up but for both sides not to work it sounds more like a duff fuse.. While the a pillar trims are off I'd plug s multi meter in and see if you see any juice hitting them. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Yep, should be plug and play, the polarity of the connections doesn't matter, if it worked before they changed it then I would imagine they forgot to plug it in....

If you have patches or lines that don't work then there is no fix, the screen will be delaminating at the top or bottom and breaking the very thin wires, they run inside the screen so you can't fix them...

The screen is designed to remove mist from inside, not heat the outside, some have extra elements at the bottom to de ice the wipers though... Pete
__________________________________________________
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2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
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Noticed on mine it's a good few minutes before it clears the frost but it does clear. I would check they have connected it up.
greg.

The old screen worked fine, you could see the lines clearing in a matter of minutes.

I will do some tests.

Any hints on removal of the A pillar trim clips? Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

My screen always clears inside and out.

I suspect a faulty screen, but hope you manage to find a quick and easy fix without resorting to the hassle of a replacement.

One more thing while I think of it, I've always found windows on the inside clear significantly faster when they're spotlessly clean. Could this be a case of giving the inside screen glass a thorough clean, if you've not done so already? Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

I had something similar with a Discovery 3 I had until recently. I called Autoglass back after realising it wasn't working six months after they'd fitted a new screen. They discovered the wires hadn't been connected.

Is it just me or would you have to be thick as a plank not to see two sets of wires and not connect them? Especially as you would have to had disconnected them in the first place.

I now have this worst case scenario in my head that whoever removed the screen sliced through the wires for the heating elements and so the loom is damaged, and that's why it won't work!

Will have to see... Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Bellini wrote:

Could this be a case of giving the inside screen glass a thorough clean, if you've not done so already?

Is there a fuse associated with the heated front screen. Just looked on Topix and couldn't find it! Fuse 15 (front fuse box) is a 30 Amp one for the rear heated screen SDV8 AB MY 2019
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4.2 S/C VSE MY 2006 - Gone

Is that for a MY2010 Stan? The Topix online manual says 34 is for the fuel filler cap electrics?  SDV8 AB MY 2019
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