Some possible problems:

Compressor fault
Reservoir pipe air leak
Reservoir air leak
Gallery pipe air leak
Intake filter blocked/restricted
Intake pipe blocked/restricted
Air suspension intake silencer blocked/restricted
Corner valve stuck open
Pressure sensor fault

Informative thread:
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/9-range-r...nly-2.html

Worth a try with a software upgrade, which should allow for operating at a lower pressure, but methinks this all points back to the compressor.....

I tried many many things to fix my problem before giving up, fitting a new compressor and finding this fixed it. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

My mum recently had a new compressor fitted to her Sport SC (2007 my).

Same fault as yours, they said some of the hitachi compressors need a reprogramme after the install, I was a bit dubious but maybe it's true?

Also, they bought a new compressor from the main dealer and that turned up DOA. It can happen. Discovery 4 HSE
1998 110 TUM HS FFR Hard Top XD WOLF
1982 Series 3 Hard Top

*Gone:L462 D5 HSE LUX, L663 Defender 110 HSE, Discovery 3 HSE, 2014MY Range Rover Sport 5.0 Supercharged AB Dynamic; L405 Exec Vogue SE 4.4, 5.0 Supercharged Autobiography, Defender TDCi XS CSW, Defender TD5 HT, Vogue SE TDV8, Vogue TD6, RRSport SC 4.2V8, Classic 3.9 Vogue Auto, Land Rover Series 3 SWB

Thanks for the info guys. I'll try the software update first then pull my hair out if that doesn't work. you'd have thought a company that specialises in these type of vehicles would be able to get to the bottom of it long before now and at a lot less than dealer prices, yes?. I'll keep you informed as to my next step and how I get on. Take it easy guys, Del.

I know that you've had a new tank fitted, but got to ask did it come with a new pressure sender? Only ask because it seams to be the thing that you haven't had changed. If it is new then I'd look at the wiring from the sender to the ECU, as that would seam to be the most likely cause of a 'not filling quick enough' fault.
For the tank not to fill quick enough, it would have to be the compressor, pipe, or a leak on the outlet side of the system before the front / rear valves. For the Ecu to report the fault, it must be one of the above OR the pressure sender / wires from the sender. It wont be a leak from the valves to the air bags, as the system isolates the valve blocks if it sees a drop in pressure.
The other thing that I've got to ask, is does it just go tits up after a time, or is it after a distance? If you find that it will sit on the drive with no faults, all day long, but BONG BONG after you've set off, I would be looking at the wiring loom carefully!
Also I'd be taking that £700+ compressor that's in the box, in the boot, and beating the service manager over the head with it until I got a full refund  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Hi Miggit, I fitted a brand new pressure sensor from L/R myself at a cost of £53. Strathearn says there are NO leaks in the system which is why they haven't a clue whats wrong. I guess I've been funding their 'guesstimation' work in replacing parts that so far haven't needed replacing. After nearly £1400 spent it's still doing exactly the same as it was when I put her in the first time for a plug in diagnostic. I took her to Airdrie the other night and she faulted at the bottom of the drive, 300m, but yet I got all the way home without her faulting, ie 6 miles. I can start her up and not touch a thing and after a few moments, she'll fault all by herself. I'm really off by this whole scenario I'm in as I could have replaced the full system myself for less that what it's cost already!. Thanks for all the replies guys, I'm going to take her to a different specialist that hopefully knows what they're doing.

Has it got the new pump fitted that they left in the boot??? Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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Pete, they've told me it's a new one that has been fitted. Seemingly you use the original chassis and just take the compressor off it and replace. I can't afford to go and buy another new one to see if it's going to make a difference, I've had to ask mum n dad to help me out here as it is. 2 kids and Christmas round the corner, this was the last thing we needed. I just want someone that's clued up on the 322's to help pinpoint her problem, £1400 and still the same is absolutely no good to me.  "Scotland is poorer in Men but richer in Heroes"

My car is the same age as yours so this is worth beating in mind.

A few days before going on holiday to Cornwall I parked and could hear hissing in the OSR of the car. It sounded like a puncture but was coming from the EAS bag area. This was combined with a "vehicle rising slowly" and the occasional "suspension fault, normal ride height selected" error on the dash.

I went to a local LR "specialist" who had the vehicle on the ramp, told me that the air was the "release valve" getting rid of excessive air in the system. He could not account for the fact that I'd never heard hissing before and also put the dash error messages (which I also didn't have before!) down to a worn compressor. I thought it was a hell of a coincidence but bowed to his greater knowledge. In my heart of hearts I was very unconvinced though!

The holiday came and went without incident but I continued to get the susension fault on the dash so I knew something was not right.

So I took it to ANOTHER specialist, who knew exactly what it was without even looking at it. Sure enough, once on the ramp you could see where an air line (sorry I don't know which) had chaffed slightly on the rear suspension arm. He cut the line, put a joiner in and it's been fine ever since.

Worth a try? 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

Hi Skot, I had a chaffed pipe above the o/s/r suspension that I cut, cleaned and jointed. This wasn't the problem. What I have noticed is the round black solenoid/ valve that's roughly in the same place and it was clicking loudly and quite quickly, infact the speed was fluctuating until it faulted and the clicking stopped. This was while she was stationery with the boot open reversed upto my workshop doors, ticking over. There seems to be black pipes connecting to both ends of it which leads me to believe it's suspension related but can't confirm as I can't seem to find it on searches. I brought it to Strathearns attention but they dismissed it as nothing to do with the suspension. That lead was stopped dead in its tracks. Anyone any idea what this bit is and what it does, is it the pressure release valve that's in the post above?. Cheers again Gents, this is now getting interesting. If you're a specialist and would like me to run her round for you to have a look, let me know, I'm in Airdrie and can travel if it's not too far. As long as your kettle works, I'm there!. ps, I'll even bring the cakes, howzat?.  "Scotland is poorer in Men but richer in Heroes"

That'll be the FBH fuel pump you can hear ticking, located on the top of the subframe above the upper wishbone.

Wish mine would tick

You wouldn't normally have a pressure relief valve (PRV) on your model, was only fitted to earlier ones, found in the boot, connecting the pipe from the compressor to the pipe that runs to the valve block on the reservoir.

If you have got one you could bypass it with a connector. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I had exactly the same problem with mine and SKOT has just confirmed a few posts up that he had the same thing.

On mine it was a very slight abrasion on the blue 8mm airline that runs from the spare wheel well up to the valve block at the rear off side wheel arch - it had been rubbing on a sharp part of the subframe.

The car would remain at height and not drop because the airbags were free from leaks......I fixed it myself with a joining kit bought on eBay for a few quid - just sliced the airline and fitted a push fit connector - no more problems worth getting an IID tool or similar and reading the system pressure after the compressor stops - that's how I found my fault as it was dropping to zero (gallery pressure from memory)

I know you said you fixed a leaking pipe but your symptoms are exactly the same as mine and I couldn't find a leak and was on the verge of buying a new compressor as well......until I found the problem !

The leak is hard to find as it'll only be apparent when the compressor is running and its a very small volume (8mm hose) to vent off when the compressor stops - and it sounds like your compressor is bringing up a fault code as soon as it tries to kick in so even harder to find the fault as the compressor is not running - catch 22 ! Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....

Hi D8DEL, I'm sorry to hear your tails of woe aren't getting any better, may I just say that as a consumer, with a reasonable grasp of the law, you would be in your rights to force the garage to refit your pump and fully refund you the cost of supplying and fitting a part that was not needed. Years ago when I worked in a garage, if we went down the route of substitution to find a fault, if the part that was changed made no difference, then it was changed back. You can use the argument that as the garage has failed to fix the fault, they are in breach of contract. You paid them to fix the car, and the car still does not work, therefore they have failed to provide the service that they were contracted to do by yourself, and therefore they are in breach of contract and are liable for costs incurred by yourself.
Now this may not get you all your money back, but it should get you a refund for the pump, which as you can prove, was only a few weeks old. C A B should be able to help you with that one, and then there are a few other choice phrases like Watch Dog that will help them see the error of their ways.
As for your fault, it has to be either the loom or the ECU. See if you can't find someone else that knows how to do realtime fault reading. If you can find what is sending the fault code to the dash, you at least stand a chance of fixing it. It will more than likely turn out to be a broken or chaffed wire.
And if the garage are a main dealer, I would suggest that a phone call to Land Rover wouldn't do any harm, after all they are providing service for Land Rover and they are failing in that.

Good Luck Bud, I've got them crossed for you  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Dear gentlemen, first wish you fine christmas, but now to the problem of finding leaks: I have in my garage a pressair-bottle with a pipe connector, fixing it instad of the compressor pipe, and so I can hear the leak at the pipes, also I have as a "Range-Rover-LM-specialist" always a second car here, to change all parts one after the other for test modus.

Best way seems to open in London or surrounding such a "German Land Rover-Garage" ???? Also fit in Maserati 3200GT, or in BMW E32.

Best rgs, Uli L405 SDV8 2017 + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

Gentlemen, THANK YOU VERY MUCH for all your help and support with my dilema. I have taken my Vogue back as we had a bout of bad weather there and needed to get her back into action. We live in the country and when it snows the best tool for the job is none other than a RR, yes?. The garage are not Main Stealers but a satellite specialist (I use the term loosely) and they've told me to let the bad weather subside and to get her back up to them to finish the job. I'm not sure I can afford to do that any more. I'll need to wait till we're back on our feet again after this unexpected costly episode and re-think my position. I'd love to take her to a REAL specialist that is enthusiastic about RR's and that way I'd be full of confidence about the outcome. All the guesstimation work has sadly taken its toll, mentally AND financially. I'd love to get her right, it's really getting me down as I like things to be spot on, no expense spared as you can see already but that's not the end of the spending which is very frustrating to say the least. I have been ASSURED by the garage that there are no leaks on the system which is not filling me with confidence so I'll get her up on the ramp and set about her with a spray bottle of soapy liquid and see if there are any bubbles coming from the pipework or unions. I'll keep you informed. Cheers again, Del.  "Scotland is poorer in Men but richer in Heroes"

While your under there I'd follow the wires back from the pressure sensor on the tank, see if there is any obvious damage or chaffing, as I get the feeling that it's going to be a false reading that's giving you the gip, if that doesn't turn up anything then I'd suggest a possible EAS ECU change. Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!