Got our brutal and dated looking monster back this morning

The garage actually sought to qualify the situation by asserting this was not rework by them, rather a Front Diff bolt or bolt had apparently worked loose and they've 'seen it before on these cars'. They've cleaned the affected areas and have reportedly tightened everything up.

They've advised that we drive it for a week and if the leak returns, they'll take it back in as a priority.

I heard reference to thread lock being used as well.

A cursory look on the plastic under cover shows that they have cleaned that off so I'll remove it in the next day or so, photograph it and monitor.

Touch wood all will be well!

lucky you have a warranty ryan...  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Apologies if I'm describing any of the components incorrectly. I've extensively checked Microcat and the Workshop Manual but, for example, I'm still not exactly sure what the aluminium?/ silver box with the X pattern (pictured below and on page 1) is officially called/ please?):

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Having cleaned the areas off thoroughly last week and having booked the car in to the garage for further assessment and works this Friday, I further inspected the affected areas today and exactly one week on, the visible oil leaks/ deposits prevail.

On 18 September, I photographed the visible leaks or oil deposits situated around the sump and what I understand to be part of the front driveshaft.

On 1 October I got the car back after garage work to remedy the leaks.

On 22 October I inspected the area as directed by the garage and photographed recurring leaks/ oil deposits in exactly the same area. I then thoroughly cleaned off the affected areas and photographed the clean components to try and help to pinpoint the source of the leak.

Today, exactly 1 week on, I inspected the affected areas again and photographed the fresh oil leaks/ deposits.

From my limited DIY inspection, it doesn't seem to me as though oil is dripping down from above the affected areas and so I’m wondering if it’s ‘just’ a leaking gasket seal and/ or a leak relevant to the shaft.

Whatever it is looks like a potentially labour intensive strip down to get to the bottom of things.

Timeline of photos: -

A. Sump on 18.09.2014 before going into garage for repair:

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Change of plan. Car now booked in for a later date as they anticipate they'll need it for at least 3 days given that it's a recurring oil leak, just in case it's not obvious to source and in case LR warranty decide to send an assessor when they do source it.

Bit confused though as when it was in with them recently, they told me they'd sourced the leak to a loose bolt which they'd tightened and thread locked

Fair play though as the manager rang to discuss today having clocked that the car was only booked in for 1 day tomorrow.

Actually wondering whether to take it to someone independent in the meantime in the hope that they can diagnose and I can hopefully attend my near future appointment, telling them exactly what the issue is?

Where in the country are you? I'm in the central belt-ish tomorrow, could have a quick look if you need it

Thanks very much for the offer Mikey, just saw your reply. I'm North of England between now and the car going back into the garage.

Ps.. I sent you a PM a while back re your caliper refurb question.

So the diagnosis is that the oil leak is because of a failed sump gasket seal.

A new gasket seal only costs about fifteen pounds.

Pub quiz question:
How many hours labour does it take to fit a sump gasket seal to a 4.2SC?

More than you can ever imagine, then multiply it by 10 and you'll still be short!  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Quoted 20 hours labour?

Are you sure you didn't mishear and they said 20 minutes?  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Unless that includes time spent to diagnose already?

It's not what you want to hear, but it's going to be a good few hour work to replace.

The front diff is bolted onto the sump, and there is a cavity for the driveshaft to pass through, so that has to come off. To get the diff off, the hubs have to come off, and shafts pulled out. On the TDV8, the subframe has to be dropped to get the diff out, I expect the 4.2 would be similar.

Not a fun job...

Could this also be connected in any way to why we've been getting old wheelbarrow noise type squeal when the car is driving/ freewheeling in a straight line (the garage says no, that will be purely brakes related as it does stop if I pump the brakes)?

I wouldn't have thought so, but without hearing the noise, it's difficult to pinpoint