verydisco wrote:

^^^are you serious ???

Did I read that

A. Megaflush was more a process to potentially benefit the TD6/GM auto gearbox as opposed to the 2006MY ZF gearbox.

B. The 2006MY onwards ZF gearbox will likely last longer if 'serviced' (oil & filter change/ specific all in one kit can be bought & a different process to megaflush) around or before the 100k miles mark?

Quote:

gearbox will likely last longer if 'serviced'

impressive...

for info, our TDV8s' ZF Gbox are sealed for life according to LR, however, both ZF and BMW using the samed boxes in smaller vehicles indicate oil and filter must be replaced every 60.000 km (40.000 ish)

I did mine at 60.000 km and the oil was so-so , can't imagine what it looks like at 200.000 km / 130.000 mls. l=Oo\________/oO=l l:OolΞΞΞΞΞΞΞloO:l

Current
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L SDV8 - 2013 - Indus Silver, on Almond.
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L V8 - 2002 - ex-2003 G4 Challenge Event Vehicle, Stage 3: Australia
RANGE ROVER HSE 4.4L V8 - 2004 - one-of-one Overfinch
RANGE ROVER P38a 4.0L V8 - 1999 - ex-2000 TReK Event Vehicle: South Africa

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RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L TDV8 - 2012 - RANGE ROVER 3.6L TDV8 x3 - RANGE ROVER Td6 x1 - RANGE ROVER Classic 3.5L V8 x1

KurtVerbose wrote:

This 'sealed for life' thing seems a false economy.

When they say "Sealed for life" what they actually mean is "Sealed for the life of the warranty"

ZF and land rover now recommend service at 100,000 if used lightly or 60,000 if used for towing on the 6hp26.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Thanks for the input chaps, I have some ideas now, hopefully others will find it useful:

1. Keep it in a garage when not in use
2. Regular wash/clay/compound/wax to protect paint
3. Intermediate engine oil/filter change between service intervals (~6,000 miles)
4. Gearbox oil megaflush (or as per new excellent wiki) change (interval 40,000 miles?)
5. Clean mud from rear wheel arches, repaint/reseal as necessary
6. Leave engine to idle for 30sec before shutting down to cool turbos
7. Change diff and transfer box oils (intervals?)
8. Renew tyre valves at tyre changes
9. Regularly charge battery with CTEK charger
10. Check rear calipers that pads free to move on carriers, not sticking
11. Clean out fuel cooler air inlet (dead leaves etc) - top of engine passenger side
12. Replace wheel nuts if rusty

Now, how about an idea? - since the IID tool can record live data, how about an extension to the IID app to do some form of 'health monitoring', which is commonly used in the aircraft industry and plenty others no doubt. One could define say 20 key parameters - i.e. engine oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, etc etc - and every so often (1,000 miles) you could plug your IID tool in and it would record snapshot values of each parameter, possibly averaged in an intelligent way. The app could then produce a standard report showing the trend of these parameters against mileage, allowing early recognition of an adverse trend i.e. slight drop in oil pressure? Just an idea for the IID guys on this forum (SteveMFr).

While cleaning rear arches of mud,get the rims off and clean out the rear subframe properly and coat with waxoyl if you can and if you have the time,coat your brake lines with lithium grease to keep corrosion at bay

I would add keep an eye on the boot lid lip as its prone to rust and if starting treat it asap.  Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE