Bit touchy this morning are we.

No not touchy, just find it amusing that every clunk, bump, hum or vibration is invariably connected to the gearbox or TQ.

There are plenty of other things on these FFRRs that can cause problems and that need fixing

The two most common answers to FFRR questions:

1. If it's anything mechanical...check the Torque Converter
2. If it's anything electrical....check in the nearside rear compartment for water ingress

If only life was so simple

You forgot the battery disconnect /reconnect but otherwise you have everything covered.
Best of luck finding your vibration.

My point was that i had a vibration issue and initially they thought it was the injectors, then mountings then finally TC.

So based on that, if your injectors and TC are fine it may well be the mountings.

Oh sorry did i mention the TC!!

nicedayforit and paulb...

All I need now is one day of good weather so I can get underneath the Ff and solve the problem...or maybe start another thread...

WHAT THE IS THIS VIBRATION?

Just had a thought, maybe need to go to the doctors and get some more medication for my Parkinsons

Finally managed to get underneath today to have a look, after spending ages removing the engine undertray...20 ruddy bolts to take off to get the damn thing off.

Managed to locate the pipework under the engine mounts (connected up where I could trace it, but very grubby looking and feeling)and traced it up to somewhere under the right hand side of the engine. Can't get a good enough look at the piping so couldn't tell what exact condition its in. Put everything back together then ran the engine to do a quick test. Not surprisingly, when in Park or Neuteral, I get the vibration once the engine gets to 1000+ rpm, with a more noticeable vibration at 2000= rpm up to 3000 rpm.

So my question is...is there any way to test the engine mounts, the engine mount electric actuator or pipework?

If not, then it may be time to get it to my indy and up on a lift for a further analysis...

Okay, time for an update and a request for some info.

Finally got the FF to my indy (in for a service) and asked him to check the engine mounts and vacuum pipes.

He said that he had tested the mounts and the vacuum lines and that every thing was okay, but then went on to say the following..

'The lines pull a vacuum at tickover (750 revs) but then the vacuum goes above 1000 revs.'

This didn't seem right to me, so I got my vacuum gauge out and managed to connect it to the vacuum line for the mounts. Sure enough, at tickover the gauge registered a vacuum, but as soon as I revved over 900 rpm the vacuum disappeared. This doesn't seem right to me, as I would assume (going from the description in Rave Manuals) that at 900rpm it should be pulling an initial vacuum to operate the mounts and at 36mph, pulling a greater/slightly lesser vacuum to put extra dampening through the mounts.

Can anyone tell me if this is the correct operation for these mounts, as I suspect that I've got a faulty Actuator Valve, but need confirmation or otherwise. I can get a replacement valve quite easily, but just need to be sure first.

Many thanks folks for any advice or pointers.

Last edited by Discotigger on 19th Aug 2014 6:30pm. Edited 1 time in total

Have you checked the Torque Converter for valid post 900RPM Vacuum assistance delay?

^ Sorry Gaz, you totally lost me there...

How would the Torque Converter have anything to do with the vacuum system..especially as the vacuum is created from a vac pump on the engine.

TC joke

^ DOH!!

Guessed as much!!

Wish this effing problem was as easy to sort as replacing the TQ, would make my life so much easier.

You will get there and as you say the vibration source is varied and far too common on TD6's.

Did you have it laser aligned when you had the tyres done? It should be checked every time you have any work done on the suspension, brake disks, new tyres and at least once a year from my experience. The rear being out of alignment can affect the feel of steering.

Not sure how the mounts work on the ff but on the XC90 which uses the same system they are hard at start up and soften when under way. If you have a leak you may able to detect it by driving with a vacuum gauge fitted and seeing how the boost is when you reach the problem speeds.

There are lots of videos of the procedure on YouTube here's one to start you off..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T3JfzdJLsI[/url]

I was about tom leap in and say of course vacuum drops as revs rise, dont you remember vacuum wipers or Triumph PI vacuum tanks. But I recalled this is a TD6 not petrol so thought I had better shut up.
Good luck with your search for a cure though. I am waiting for my TD6 to have this rattle as it seems to have or had every other one.
Adrian VW Amarok 2014 Highline auto