Apart from pulling them one at a time, is there anyway to check the injectors without removing them for a squirty in the bottle test!?
Also am I right in thinking that to remove injectors 2-6 the inlet manifold needs to come out?

you can do a spill test when they are still fitted
(and test them with t4)

i know its not a FULL test but will give you pretty good idea about the condition

yes manifold off to remove them

Cheers mate.
Forgive my ignorance but T4?

Sorry i was refereeing to the testbook machine
any other computer able to do injector balancing will do as well

Looks like standard IIDTool will give fuel pressure live value only. Torque Pro on an Android Phone with ELM327 might give more info?

Haver been searching for a photo howto on spill/leak test for FFRR, closest was something on a Beemer.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I think I'll end up checking out the Beemer ones Joe. As long as I get a rough idea I'll suss it out!!

Yip leak off test will help but ideally after 100k they tend to just be best being removed and tested.

Strangely when fitted in BMW's they seem to eat through them a lot compared to the FF's.

Just my IMO but if you confirm any of them are causing issues its best to get the whole lot tested and cleaned  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I was speaking to a mate of mine who has a contact for getting them refurbed. Hopefully he's not too pricey. The plan will be to pull them all and get them done.

Not FFRR but gives you the gist. I guess you can do one at a time til you find the one that fills the bottle?

 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

whats the symptoms if i can ask

It runs perfectly fine at all times but once it's up to temp if you stop and go to restart it turns forever and doesn't start. Eventually she'll catch and fire up again running perfectly.
It's as though there's just not quite enough pressure to get it going then once it's built up enough it goes.

Joe, thanks for that I'll have a watch.

Next time try allowing the engine to fully prime a few times before cranking it and see if it helps.

Could also be a dodgey injector harness failing when warm and after a good amount of cranking contact resumes as normal.

Idealy you want a diag on it when its doing it  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

defo fault reading is a must (and life data from low fuel pressure)

and leak off test recommended (my money on dogy injector)

harness would rather cause miss-fire than non start

Cheers for the advice chaps. I think live data would be the way forward but my faultmate doesn't do live!
Am I correct in thinking that the engine would have to be up to temp for the injectors to fail whilst testing?

low fuel pressure to be checked just after ignition on (does not matter hot or cold)
injectors are more likely to misbehave when cold so easier to pick up the wrong one on cold-ish engine

faults you should be interested in

any fuel pressure related